Hot Summer; Hot, Overheating V-8 Radiator Setup., Hot Summer; Hot, Overheating V-8 Radiator Setup. Options

[BRAVE_HELIOS]

Latest update... so after bleeding the coolant system with my make-shift setup; my smart beyond his years son (he's 14) mentioned that perhaps the front license plate was impeding the flow of air into the radiator. So as a test, I unbolted the license plate from the front bumper. BTW; another good sign of my handiwork... as I removed the license plate; I noticed that it would try to come out of my hand as the rad fan was drawing it back towards the opening. Talk about a good sucking fan!

Anyway; Took the plate off then took it for a drive and it is way better! Mind you; day was sunny but cool; around 65 degrees, but I drove it and drove it hard and it barely got past 180 degrees! The testing will continue but it is looking good so far!

Take a look at the picture... does it look like the license plate would impede enough to cause a flow issue?

Now I just need to convince the cops that the plate is missing for a good reason!

[Chris H.]

Hmmm.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) ....so my experience is that if there is air in the system the temp can't be controlled by the fans at idle. That's how I knew there was still air in there with my previous setup. If you start the engine and it comes up to temp with no erratic readings and then stays at the same temp being controlled easily by the fans then it seems like you have most of the air out.

I'm agreeing with the shrouding folks. I think Kent had an issue like what you are describing with his smaller radiator. His radiator was not sealed completely on one side and a small fist-sized gap in the shroud was letting air through. Once he plugged that he was good. The rad needs to be sealed all the way around from air gaps so all the air coming through the front of the car is forced through the radiator.

[messix]

Latest update... so after bleeding the coolant system with my make-shift setup; my smart beyond his years son (he's 14) mentioned that perhaps the front license plate was impeding the flow of air into the radiator. So as a test, I unbolted the license plate from the front bumper. BTW; another good sign of my handiwork... as I removed the license plate; I noticed that it would try to come out of my hand as the rad fan was drawing it back towards the opening. Talk about a good sucking fan!

Anyway; Took the plate off then took it for a drive and it is way better! Mind you; day was sunny but cool; around 65 degrees, but I drove it and drove it hard and it barely got past 180 degrees! The testing will continue but it is looking good so far!

Take a look at the picture... does it look like the license plate would impede enough to cause a flow issue?

Now I just need to convince the cops that the plate is missing for a good reason!

yes that could very well be the problem with road/highway speed over heating. that plate would have deflected on coming air around and away from the air opening. same thing happens on jeeps with the old warn up right winch.

[BRAVE_HELIOS]

So... any body have a good used electric water pump for sale? She crept up towards 200 today at speed and I'm over it and possibly the whole damn car.

Also; I am going to ask here since I am not sure if this is a v8 conversion issue or a trans-axle only issue. Twice so far, while sitting at a light in neutral... light turns green, stick it in 2nd, let out the clutch and the car does not want to move. It feels like the e-brake is on but it is not. In both occurrences; I got it to move by sticking it in reverse then back to second. I have lubed up the linkage in the engine/trans area after the first time but it happened again today. Any ideas why this is happening?

Latest update... so after bleeding the coolant system with my make-shift setup; my smart beyond his years son (he's 14) mentioned that perhaps the front license plate was impeding the flow of air into the radiator. So as a test, I unbolted the license plate from the front bumper. BTW; another good sign of my handiwork... as I removed the license plate; I noticed that it would try to come out of my hand as the rad fan was drawing it back towards the opening. Talk about a good sucking fan!

Anyway; Took the plate off then took it for a drive and it is way better! Mind you; day was sunny but cool; around 65 degrees, but I drove it and drove it hard and it barely got past 180 degrees! The testing will continue but it is looking good so far!

Take a look at the picture... does it look like the license plate would impede enough to cause a flow issue?

Now I just need to convince the cops that the plate is missing for a good reason!

yes that could very well be the problem with road/highway speed over heating. that plate would have deflected on coming air around and away from the air opening. same thing happens on jeeps with the old warn up right winch.

[JRust]

So when it doesn't want to move. Is it actually in gear? When you let out the clutch does it just bog down? Or does it just feel like neutral. I'm thinking it is one of 2 things. Your either hitting 4th instead of second. Or your not getting second actually engaged. Does your thread show your linkage earlier? I'm not looking through it form the start right now. So if they are on here. Tell me what page (IMG:style_emoticons/default/evilgrin.gif)

[mgp4591]

New electric pumps are actually pretty cheap - look 'em up and I think you'll be surprised.

[BRAVE_HELIOS]

So when it doesn't want to move. Is it actually in gear? When you let out the clutch does it just bog down? Or does it just feel like neutral. I'm thinking it is one of 2 things. Your either hitting 4th instead of second. Or your not getting second actually engaged. Does your thread show your linkage earlier? I'm not looking through it form the start right now. So if they are on here. Tell me what page (IMG:style_emoticons/default/evilgrin.gif)

It most definitely is in 2nd... I feel it slotting in. When I let the clutch out, the engine bogs like it wants to die and I can smell burnt clutch. I have also tried going into 3rd, 4rth and 5th and trying to take off from there but it does the same thing. It is not until I put it in reverse then back to 2nd that it will move (for now).

I don't have pictures of the linkage. I can get them tomorrow but I followed Renegade Hybrid's instructions on lengthening the bar (car is a 71 but has a side shifter trans-axle).

[BRAVE_HELIOS]

New electric pumps are actually pretty cheap - look 'em up and I think you'll be surprised.

How about some examples of units you would recommend? I have seen new Metsier 55 GPM units for $400.00! This seems to be the preferred model.

[76-914]

I'm late to the party and maybe this was covered. 1) Have you taken the inlet and outlet temps on your radiator so we can see how much the temp actually drops after it's trip thru the radiator? 2) Is the free space between the inlet at the bumper/fairing and the body totally sealed as shown in the pic below? I used aluminum tape to seal on the sides and top. Sloppy but effective! The bottom is an aluminum sheet and part of the plenum. If not the air will fly thru these areas and never go over the fin tubes. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Mike Bellis]

New electric pumps are actually pretty cheap - look 'em up and I think you'll be surprised.

My Stewart pump was $400. Not exactly cheap but it works great.

[BRAVE_HELIOS]

I'm late to the party and maybe this was covered. 1) Have you taken the inlet and outlet temps on your radiator so we can see how much the temp actually drops after it's trip thru the radiator? 2) Is the free space between the inlet at the bumper/fairing and the body totally sealed as shown in the pic below? I used aluminum tape to seal on the sides and top. Sloppy but effective! The bottom is an aluminum sheet and part of the plenum. If not the air will fly thru these areas and never go over the fin tubes. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

I'll get pictures of my area tomorrow. Mine is pretty sealed up. The bumper opening is seal/ducted to the front bulkhead but there is an opening (slot) from the bottom of the duct to front trunk floor pan. I can definitely see air escaping from that area.

[messix]

the gear problem might be the selectors in the trans trying to engage reverse with a forward gear. the set screws to the shift rails might not be tight

[BRAVE_HELIOS]

the gear problem might be the selectors in the trans trying to engage reverse with a forward gear. the set screws to the shift rails might not be tight

Are these set screws located internally... inside the trans axle?

[messix]

the gear problem might be the selectors in the trans trying to engage reverse with a forward gear. the set screws to the shift rails might not be tight

Are these set screws located internally... inside the trans axle?

yes

[mgp4591]

New electric pumps are actually pretty cheap - look 'em up and I think you'll be surprised.

My Stewart pump was $400. Not exactly cheap but it works great.

Oh Kay.... I was wrong on that one, but I've seen them for under 150. I'd go with the more expensive but proven pumps suggested by those with the real experience...

[BRAVE_HELIOS]

the gear problem might be the selectors in the trans trying to engage reverse with a forward gear. the set screws to the shift rails might not be tight

Are these set screws located internally... inside the trans axle?

yes

So are we talking complete disassembly of the tranny or can I access these set screws while the tranny is still in the car?

[messix]

yes, look up a exploded view of the tranny.

you will have to lift the gear stack out and there is a jig that sets the position of the gears and selectors. find a guy near you that did one of evils tranny build clinics they might be able to help you.... oh you live in idaho.... well you might have to make the long trek to the seattle or portlandia to find some that can help you

[messix]

this is what it looks like and where its located http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=25856&st=0

[messix]

but first you should check these parts for wear and slop, look at post #14 http://rennlist.com/forums/914-914-6-forum...-you-using.html

[BRAVE_HELIOS]

Here a few pictures of the shift linkage and the duct area from the bumper to the bulkhead. I did find a few places where the fiberglass duct was not completely sealed against the bulkhead and floor pan. I took care of it temporarily by using some sheet metal, metal tape and foam. This area is completely sealed now... air goes directly from bumper opening to bulkhead to rad and no where else.

I will check again but I am quite certain all of my external tranny bushes and seals are in good shape and the set screws are set/tight. I did acquire Dr Evil's DVD v2010 and watched it once. Did not think I was actually going to have to open the tranny up though. I wonder if I should be looking for an H gear now too. Anybody in the Boise Idaho area take one of these apart?