Hot Summer; Hot, Overheating V-8 Radiator Setup., Hot Summer; Hot, Overheating V-8 Radiator Setup. Options

[cali914]

Heres my in and out on renegade set up.96 deg I run 200 to 225ish.

That's a lighter for ref.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1315.photobucket.com-15718-1469634194.1.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1315.photobucket.com-15718-1469634194.2.jpg)

5.3 Ls electric water pump.

LS run hotter than old school small blocks. 210-220 normal.

[BRAVE_HELIOS]

Here are some pictures I took today.

The holes in the shroud are new... as a test top see if it made a difference. I think it did because in the past (with no holey shroud), it did not matter how cold it was outside; the temp would always go to 200 and beyond (have a 160 t-stat with bleed holes drilled and the fan is set to turn on at 180). After cutting the holes in the shroud, the temp would stay at around 180 (acceptable) although it was when it was cooler outside. Now in this 100 degree weather... it does not matter... it still get to 200 and beyond).

The extra fans are from a Toyota 4-Runner AC condenser units and were mounted there temporarily to see if they made any difference in assisting the main fan exhaust air from the front area (they were wired to push air out). They did not work.

What if I could place the radiator more vertically to allow a larger area in front of it (then shroud it too). Would that help any?

Also; my temp sensor is mounted in a port right next to the t-stat/intake manifold.

Post pics of the whole system please.

[BIGKAT_83]

Throw that inline filler neck away that,s your problem. Way too hard to get all the air out of the system. Your trying to add water on the high pressure hose. Get a header tank and plump it up like the attached picture .

[d914]

Throw that inline filler neck away that,s your problem. Way too hard to get all the air out of the system. Your trying to add water on the high pressure hose. Get a header tank and plump it up like the attached picture .

For the record bob has done two v8 cars north of 400hp a suby 6 and my suby turbo....... his set up works..

[BRAVE_HELIOS]

It's great to get solid reliable information from someone who's done this once or twice.

So; Bob is BIGKAT_83; right?

Throw that inline filler neck away that,s your problem. Way too hard to get all the air out of the system. Your trying to add water on the high pressure hose. Get a header tank and plump it up like the attached picture .

For the record bob has done two v8 cars north of 400hp a suby 6 and my suby turbo....... his set up works..

[Mueller]

Is this Felix's old car? Sure looks like the one that burnt half the hair off an arm and allmost burnt off my eyebrows when flames came shooting out of the carb at the Palo Alto shop!

[914forme]

It's great to get solid reliable information from someone who's done this once or twice.

So; Bob is BIGKAT_83; right?

Correct - and yes he has done it once, or twice (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

[BRAVE_HELIOS]

Bob,

Is the header tank the same as the expansion tank pictured? What is the auxiliary plumbing for? I bought my kit used (but never installed) and I thought the in-line filler neck was a Renegade Hybrid part of the kit. So you are quite sure that if I follow your drawing, my cooling issues should get much better? That would be awesome! Thanks for all your help!

Throw that inline filler neck away that,s your problem. Way too hard to get all the air out of the system. Your trying to add water on the high pressure hose. Get a header tank and plump it up like the attached picture .

[d914]

I'll let him explain but it constantly purges any air,, I believe the hot side small hose off of the goose neck is feeding hot water and or gas to the header tank... header releases to atmospheric.. car pulls from bottom of tank if it need more water.

He'll probably be shaking his head on how I just messed this up!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

g

[BIGKAT_83]

The header tank is the same as a expansion tank. The aux. plumping is not needed

This set up has worked for me every time.

Bob

[BRAVE_HELIOS]

Bob,

More details please!

1. Manufacture of expansion tank preferred? Moroso? Model number? Capacity?
2. Best placement of the expansion tank?
3. I see a tap on the low pressure side of the rad from the expansion tank (from bottom of expansion tank. Best location for the tap/splice?
4. I see a line from from the expansion tank (in red... high pressure?) to the engine near t-stat. Best location for this line?
5. Can you point me to pictures of your setup(s)?

Thanks again!

The header tank is the same as a expansion tank. The aux. plumping is not needed

This set up has worked for me every time.

Bob

[billium01]

Maybe its something else like a blown head gasket? Had that problem with my friends mazda truck the other day. It was always overheating.

[Mike Bellis]

Tony, I see from your pics you have the big block Mopar pump is the conversion housing. When was the last time you replaced the pump? A Mopar 440 RV pump might give you better flow.

[veekry9]

http://210.101.116.115/fisita/pdf/H202.pdf
Some numbers.
SBC powered vans or pickups have the most capable cooling system for the duty cycles used.The sizes and flow rates for them could be marked as a maxima.
A 1-1/2" X 96" hose will flow less than a 2-1/4" X 24",the pressures from a given pump similar to the Chevy's,
Area of the radiator opening port,or facia must be sized to flow at average city speeds,40kph/25mph.
A manometer check of the working air pressures is required to ensure the flows can be achieved without fan assistance.
Equal pressures on both sides of the rad equals no flow,and the cause of rising temps.
Vapour lock in the system is also problematic,a no bubble pipe and rad will cool better as the area of contact is larger.
All of this has been sussed for decades,a different setup will yield different results.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
/
A custom fan shroud,to carry the fan you have,so all the air passes through all the rad.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G8cz_5eP81U
The number of 90* bends,in addition to kinked hoses,will limit the flow.
/

[veekry9]

Restriction to 3/4"id?


Neckdown to 3/4"?

Likely,the rad is air trapped,as it rises to the top,displacing the coolant.
Venting to header and overflow tanks will solve the problem.
Custom fittings for your heater-core lines will open the restrictions.
A plumber's nightmare,reducer's and tees,in a Porsche.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) keeping it cool.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
/

A local weld shop can make these 'vees',in ss or ally.The id is important for flow.
ABS plastic cut,glued and machined,has been used as well,labor intensive,to get right.
/

[Cracker]

Your radiator is fine, as is your supply lines, inlet and return diameters. The mechanical pump is NOT ideal and look for any kinks in your lines, especially so around the front compartment - common problem. Also, the front bumper could be an issue - the radiator needs to be fed with plenty of air - mine is three times larger than what you pictured.

I run 1" lines (supply/return) and on my radiator as well. I have no issue and believe me it is pushed.

Good luck.

Tony

[d914]

Jags that run have some nice adapters also.. turned AL.. The T needed for the hot side to Header... Thats also available all over the place.


http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Cooling-System-Parts_Order.html

[BIGKAT_83]

Here are a few pictures of my radiator install. The front opening is a GT Bumper and lower valance. You can see in the picture the smaller sized wheelwell openings.
Homemade header tank

[BRAVE_HELIOS]

The pump is only 2-3 years old.

Lots of replies on this thread... thanks to all!

I need time to read through all the responses. I just need to figure out the best place to start. Bob's recommendations are a good place to start I think!

Tony, I see from your pics you have the big block Mopar pump is the conversion housing. When was the last time you replaced the pump? A Mopar 440 RV pump might give you better flow.

[Cracker]

It doesn't matter if its 1 day old...its a mechanical pump and for a variety of reasons I'd rather have an electric remote (or on-board) system. Bleeding all the air out and keeping it out is the number one reason I prefer the electric unit. Secondly, at the end of a long session on track, I keep it on (flowing) for 5 minutes or so. I also do NOT run a thermostat either.

T

The pump is only 2-3 years old.

Lots of replies on this thread... thanks to all!

I need time to read through all the responses. I just need to figure out the best place to start. Bob's recommendations are a good place to start I think!

Tony, I see from your pics you have the big block Mopar pump is the conversion housing. When was the last time you replaced the pump? A Mopar 440 RV pump might give you better flow.