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> Hot Summer; Hot, Overheating V-8 Radiator Setup., Hot Summer; Hot, Overheating V-8 Radiator Setup.
Chris H.
post Jul 28 2016, 06:34 PM
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QUOTE(d914 @ Jul 27 2016, 04:26 PM) *

QUOTE(BIGKAT_83 @ Jul 27 2016, 03:49 PM) *

Throw that inline filler neck away that,s your problem. Way too hard to get all the air out of the system. Your trying to add water on the high pressure hose. Get a header tank and plump it up like the attached picture .





For the record bob has done two v8 cars north of 400hp a suby 6 and my suby turbo....... his set up works..


And mine! Over the phone. That's exactly what was wrong with my car. You can't get all the air out with that setup. The high pressure will keep the air from escaping. Once I fixed that I never had a problem.
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BRAVE_HELIOS
post Jul 29 2016, 08:22 PM
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So; Iv'e been looking at the replies along with photos else where on this site. Let me know what you think...

1. I want to add a header tank and overflow to the front (radiator) side of the car. I will attempt to place it higher than the top of the rad.

2. In my pictures, note that I have T's on the HP and LP (High Pressure & Low Pressure) hoses near the radiator to carry coolant to the cabin blower/heater core. Also note that there is a petcock located on the top right side of the radiator.

3. I want to connect the bottom port of the expansion tank to the lower radiator hose somewhere/somehow in the front trunk area. Does it matter... between the rad and the heater core T or between the heater core T and the front trunk floor where the coolant hoses go under the car.

4. I want to connect the side port of the expansion tank to the rad petcock as my HP connection.

5. in the engine compartment; I will remove the (bad so bad (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)) filler neck and replace it with a straight pipe/hose coupler.

Good so far? What else in regard to adding a header tank? I read someone say to duplicate the setup in the engine bay. Over kill? Someone wrote about installing a 3/4 inch washer (somehow) in the HP hose right where the HP hose connects to the rad. How and why would you do that?

Anyway... my steps 1-5 a good place to start?




QUOTE(BRAVE_HELIOS @ Jul 27 2016, 01:57 PM) *

Here are some pictures I took today.

The holes in the shroud are new... as a test top see if it made a difference. I think it did because in the past (with no holey shroud), it did not matter how cold it was outside; the temp would always go to 200 and beyond (have a 160 t-stat with bleed holes drilled and the fan is set to turn on at 180). After cutting the holes in the shroud, the temp would stay at around 180 (acceptable) although it was when it was cooler outside. Now in this 100 degree weather... it does not matter... it still get to 200 and beyond).

The extra fans are from a Toyota 4-Runner AC condenser units and were mounted there temporarily to see if they made any difference in assisting the main fan exhaust air from the front area (they were wired to push air out). They did not work.

What if I could place the radiator more vertically to allow a larger area in front of it (then shroud it too). Would that help any?

Also; my temp sensor is mounted in a port right next to the t-stat/intake manifold.



QUOTE(Chris914n6 @ Jul 27 2016, 01:35 AM) *

Post pics of the whole system please.


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Chris914n6
post Jul 30 2016, 12:56 AM
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Confuchris say "Eureka you got it all wrong" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

The rad cap needs to be the highest point in the system, meaning in the engine bay.
Run the heater hoses off the block in a stock like fashion. Route them thru the heater tube to the front.
Use the petcock on the rad to bleed the front. Jack up that side of the car so the petcock is higher.
The theory behind the expansion tank is to create a space above the water flow where air gets trapped, while making the trapped air the first pushed out into the overflow tank when the water heats up and expands.
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Cracker
post Jul 30 2016, 07:26 AM
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This is fairly easy to follow - your engine doesn't have a steam tube (I believe) but that is simple to eliminate. Good luck!

Tony

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Cracker
post Jul 30 2016, 07:26 AM
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This is from an old Renegade diagram but the basic location of items YOU have are easy to identify. If you have issues, PM me your cell and I'll be happy to walk you through this over the phone. Good luck!

Tony

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veekry9
post Jul 30 2016, 07:52 AM
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The lines to the header tanks at each end are pressurized,1/4" will do.
One from the top of the rad,another at the rear,both higher than the cylinder heads.
The overflow/expansion tanks also that high,tho not necessarily.
Any 'camel humps'in the lines will make a restricting vapour lock,limiting the flow.
The hot line from the engine goes to the top neck on the rad,the low neck is the return to engine.
Another consideration,verify that the return line is not collapsing from the pump's low pressure side.
The electric pump idea is a good one,as an auxilary,for those highway jams,running airconditioning.
The mechanical/vacuum/electric valve for the heater core is on the hot side line,for when you have the air on.
The front header tank can be placed up high,near the base of the windshield.
Wrapping and heatshielding the headers,and adding the two fans into the engine compartment,will knock down the heat there much better.
That will dissipate the rad's requirements too,the LS radiating massive btu,the engine fan usually doing that job.
Perhaps you're running cats as well as resonators and silencers,as the exhaust temps are then higher.
Oil cooling in CA is a good idea too,pulls more heat out,allowing longer oil life.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
/
Ducts,get some duct. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
https://www.google.ca/webhp?sourceid=chrome...q=duct+air+flow
https://www.google.ca/search?q=auto+radiato...tom+intercooler
https://www.google.ca/search?q=auto+radiato...kZaa68wJiJxM%3A
https://www.google.ca/search?q=composite+du...4nIdm18YCE6M%3A
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
/
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v82go
post Jul 30 2016, 09:29 AM
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This is the system I built for mine. The puke/de-airer tank is built from scrap 3"

alum. conduit tied into the low pressure side. The tank ends up being slightly

higher than the block. I ran 1" alum conduit under the car for lines to the engine.

I do not run a thermostat, it runs around 195 F. I don't turn on the fans until she reaches 180 or so. I also am using a belt driven (F-body) pump.

It is my belief that most cooling issues are do to air trapped in the system.

This cools my hopped up LS1 without issues. Good Luck! Bob


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Chris H.
post Jul 30 2016, 09:51 AM
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Nice setup Bob! Sorry to hijack but would you mind posting some more pics of your hood outlet? Underside and up top? Looks like a great alternative and nicely done. Is that the only hole you have for air exhaust (not that you need any more) ?
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veekry9
post Jul 30 2016, 09:56 AM
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Attached Image
Looks good,tho I gotta ask.How does the air get there?
Can't 'push'the bubbles down to vent the rad to the top tank.
Might see an improvement,if you run a small line to the header tank.
I've used ss,and not ss,brake lines in the past to vent steam pockets.
Easy work,and simple.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
I agree that the rigid lines forward are the way to go,a path through the longs perfect,if insulated.
In the north,a thermostat is needed,mostly for emissions,warmup runs rich.
/
Venting the top of the rad is a good idea,no doubt about it.
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Chris H.
post Jul 30 2016, 10:07 AM
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I think he said it's the highest point, low pressure side. Those are the keys. Might be the way the pic is angled that makes it look differently.
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Cracker
post Jul 30 2016, 10:40 AM
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This is not as complex as it may seem...it is also not necessary to install a tank in the front compartment. I believe you mentioned you have a petcock on the top of the radiator, correct? Use that to bleed the majority of air out of the system up front. Install a fill/expansion tank on the low pressure (return from the radiator) side of the system and higher than the intake/heads - whichever holds coolant at the highest point. I mentioned the advantage of an electric pump originally and I still stand by that as being the most efficient method for bleeding the cooling system. The mechanical pump obviously works but presents more challenges en route to success. Good luck.

PS:The use of a thermostat will also increase the difficulty of bleeding the system. Jack the car up in the rear, if necessary, to help evacuate the air.

Tony

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v82go
post Jul 30 2016, 10:45 AM
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Hi

The puke tank is pressurized and since being higher than the block and radiator it is also where I fill the system, the radiator is a no fill type (no cap) and has a bleed petcock. I bleed the radiator when first filling and keep my tank about half full. It
seems to self bleed. Some of the newer fords have a similar system with a plastic
pressurized puke tank.

And a pic or 2 for Chris. (sorry for the hijack)

My last v8 car had the fender wells cut-out and while it worked, I think this does a better job with no weakening from the cut-outs and no hot air on your brakes.

I cut the hole in the hood with my 4" grinder (cut-off wheel). I framed it in underneath with thin 1" flat bar tacked in and 4 studs to hold the perforated aluminum panel in.

Bob


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Chris H.
post Jul 30 2016, 11:09 AM
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Thank you Bob! Very clean install. Nice work!
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Andyrew
post Jul 30 2016, 01:06 PM
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QUOTE(v82go @ Jul 30 2016, 09:45 AM) *

Hi

The puke tank is pressurized and since being higher than the block and radiator it is also where I fill the system, the radiator is a no fill type (no cap) and has a bleed petcock. I bleed the radiator when first filling and keep my tank about half full. It
seems to self bleed. Some of the newer fords have a similar system with a plastic
pressurized puke tank.

And a pic or 2 for Chris. (sorry for the hijack)

My last v8 car had the fender wells cut-out and while it worked, I think this does a better job with no weakening from the cut-outs and no hot air on your brakes.

I cut the hole in the hood with my 4" grinder (cut-off wheel). I framed it in underneath with thin 1" flat bar tacked in and 4 studs to hold the perforated aluminum panel in.

Bob


Thats a clean install! I also found that the hood exhaust to be much more efficient than the fender exhaust. I however prefer the look of the clean hood so I went back to it a while ago.
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BIGKAT_83
post Jul 30 2016, 02:10 PM
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I cut a spare hood for a 2012 ford GT 500 hood vent. This is without even bolting the vent down. It looks like a perfect match of the 914 hood contour.
I had planned to use it,but found out it wasn't needed.

When I get some extra time I may finish this up.
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cali914
post Jul 30 2016, 06:23 PM
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QUOTE(Reverend Troublemaker @ Jul 30 2016, 09:40 AM) *

This is not as complex as it may seem...it is also not necessary to install a tank in the front compartment. I believe you mentioned you have a petcock on the top of the radiator, correct? Use that to bleed the majority of air out of the system up front. Install a fill/expansion tank on the low pressure (return from the radiator) side of the system and higher than the intake/heads - whichever holds coolant at the highest point. I mentioned the advantage of an electric pump originally and I still stand by that as being the most efficient method for bleeding the cooling system. The mechanical pump obviously works but presents more challenges en route to success. Good luck.

PS:The use of a thermostat will also increase the difficulty of bleeding the system. Jack the car up in the rear, if necessary, to help evacuate the air.

Tony

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Agree keep it simple drill to small holes in thermostat for bleeding purposes and make sure your fill is at the highest point of the systemAttached Image The two LS 914s are sweet.
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cali914
post Jul 30 2016, 06:26 PM
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QUOTE(BIGKAT_83 @ Jul 30 2016, 01:10 PM) *

I cut a spare hood for a 2012 ford GT 500 hood vent. This is without even bolting the vent down. It looks like a perfect match of the 914 hood contour.
I had planned to use it,but found out it wasn't needed.

When I get some extra time I may finish this up.
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Matches hood really well but opening does not seem large enough to exit air quick enough especially over 40mph
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Cracker
post Jul 30 2016, 07:29 PM
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My car is a race car, more than anything else, and isn't as clean as some of your's but I've been happy with the efficiency of the "through the hood venting". I plan on opening it even more and adding a little more grill screen.

PS: I'm impressed with how clean V82GO cut his opening - talk about pressure with a cut off wheel! Great job Sir! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Tony

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jdunn
post Jul 30 2016, 09:21 PM
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More good information here:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry1380981

Jack
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cali914
post Jul 30 2016, 11:48 PM
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QUOTE(Reverend Troublemaker @ Jul 30 2016, 06:29 PM) *

My car is a race car, more than anything else, and isn't as clean as some of your's but I've been happy with the efficiency of the "through the hood venting". I plan on opening it even more and adding a little more grill screen.

PS: I'm impressed with how clean V82GO cut his opening - talk about pressure with a cut off wheel! Great job Sir! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Tony

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What kind of temps are you running.
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