Oil filter bulge, Jiffy Pop NEW concern, 1 cyl intermittently pre-detonates help! Michigan Build, 2016 Build-Off Options

[Mark Henry]

Wow that is one of the worst I've seen...??? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)
I expect that from an engine that was used for a boat anchor.

Surprised that it's still not turning easy, once you crack it the first bit it usually turns right out. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

[rgalla9146]

It's moving, 1/4 turn so far. I had to cut two, more slots and hit away. Done this procedure before, just this thing did not want to move, and the softness of the brass didn't , and did help.

Results

Not a good sign!
Once I get it to move at all, I can thread it in/out with two fingers.
If it is that stuck I am afraid to see what is behind it.

Well that's different.
Is there evidence of JB weld on the seal (and also ?) the threads ?

[Garland]

Me to, here it is!

Used a home made slide hammer, after taping the piston. Washed out and Cleaned up the passage , and going to replace the piston, spring and cap.

[stugray]

Me to, here it is!

Used a home made slide hammer, after taping the piston. Washed out and Cleaned up the passage , and going to replace the piston, spring and cap.

I would go directly to tangerine racing, do not pass go, do not collect $200.

http://www.tangerineracing.com/oilpressurerelief.htm

I would not trust that bore ever again.

[Garland]

Wow that is one of the worst I've seen...??? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)
I expect that from an engine that was used for a boat anchor.

Surprised that it's still not turning easy, once you crack it the first bit it usually turns right out. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

Mark, I have a boat anchor motor, been sitting just as you see it behind the barn for 10 years. Pulled from a rusted out car, when pulled the intakes were off and valves rusted.

So down to the barn, 2 hits, spin it out by hand, and need to pull the piston. 3 minutes!

[Garland]

"I would go directly to tangerine racing, do not pass go, do not collect $200."

Thank you, I may just do that

Opinions?

2015Pressure Relief

Our pressure relief valve replaces the stock assembly located in the bottom of the Type 4 engine crankcase. It eliminates the oil cooler bypass in the stock oil circuit and raises the peak operating pressure to 70psi.The crankcase bore for the pressure relief assembly is well worn after 40 years of operation and often bypasses a significant amount of oil, lowering available pressure to the bearings. Our assembly uses a chrome-moly steel sleeve with close tolerance stainless steel piston for many years of troublefree performance. It will cure many high oil temp/low oil pressure issues and is essential for modified engines with external oil coolers - to achieve optimal oil temperature control. A perfect complement to our remote oil cooler kits.



Prototype World post.

[stugray]

"I would go directly to tangerine racing, do not pass go, do not collect $200."

Thank you, I may just do that

Opinions?

2015Pressure Relief

Our pressure relief valve replaces the stock assembly located in the bottom of the Type 4 engine crankcase. It eliminates the oil cooler bypass in the stock oil circuit and raises the peak operating pressure to 70psi.The crankcase bore for the pressure relief assembly is well worn after 40 years of operation and often bypasses a significant amount of oil, lowering available pressure to the bearings. Our assembly uses a chrome-moly steel sleeve with close tolerance stainless steel piston for many years of troublefree performance. It will cure many high oil temp/low oil pressure issues and is essential for modified engines with external oil coolers - to achieve optimal oil temperature control. A perfect complement to our remote oil cooler kits.

I have one in my car. Works as advertised so far.
I do cringe a bit when I fire up the car cold and the oil pressure gets to almost 80 PSI since I have dual front oil coolers (hoping to not hear that POP sound...)

[Garland]

I think it will still work. I cleaned up the bore and the piston, but just a bit. Using the cap, washer, and piston from the boat anchor.

[stugray]

I think it will still work. I cleaned up the bore and the piston, but just a bit. Using the cap, washer, and piston from the boat anchor.

Can you feel a ridge inside the bore with your finger?
One problem with these is a ridge develops over time and the piston can get stuck on it.
Looks like yours was from corrosion, but I would still check.
Some have cleaned out the bore with fancy tools or even a dowel with sandpaper glued to it.

[0396]

Me to, here it is!

Used a home made slide hammer, after taping the piston. Washed out and Cleaned up the passage , and going to replace the piston, spring and cap.

I would go directly to tangerine racing, do not pass go, do not collect $200.

http://www.tangerineracing.com/oilpressurerelief.htm

I would not trust that bore ever again.

Sorry to hear of your concerns...
Now that you know that is has all that corrosion in there, maybe you should split the case and check if the rest of the motor is not in the same state of health. Proactive vs having the possibility of it blowing up down the road.
Just a thought.

[stugray]

Sorry to hear of your concerns...
Now that you know that is has all that corrosion in there, maybe you should split the case and check if the rest of the motor is not in the same state of health. Proactive vs having the possibility of it blowing up down the road.
Just a thought.

I agree:

I think something is blocking the final oil galley right before the bearings (in diagram where it says out to lifters cam and crank), or before the oil pressure port.

to pressurize the oil filter like that I dont believe he is getting ANY flow to the bearings.
I still dont believe a stuck piston could block ALL the flow.
I think the passages in the engine are all going to look like what he found in the bore of the pressure relief valve.

[pgollender]

What is the length of the spring supposed to be ? Mine is 60mm out of (EB) 1973 block.
I had high oil pressure too on initial start-up (65psi) after complete rebuild . No filter failure but a small leak developed at the pressure sensor threads ( no sealant, no crush washer installed)

[Mark Henry]

I had high oil pressure too on initial start-up (65psi) after complete rebuild .

That's pretty well normal for a cold start anytime. On a real cold day you can see over 150lbs on start-up with thick oil.
Once full hot you should see 10lbs per 1000rpm

BTW I've done the same as the OP on a new engine when I once tried to cheap out and use an econo filter for break in.
Took me a day to clean up the three cars I hosed. Most expensive $5 I ever saved.

That's why you don't cheap out with oil filters.

[Garland]

Each start was 5 sec or less, started now, 3 times. 3 rd times, the charm.

Back together and 3 rd start, no leeks pressures holding, so far.

I did add oil to the cylinders, a few times over the years. This could be that residue.

I'll know more after I crank it, and change the oil. Then may start breakin.

[stugray]

What does the oil pressure read at the pressure sender port?

[0396]

Im a little confused. Is this a "used" engine? If it was a newly built engine, why is all that crud in the oil pressure valve, did they not clean the case? As for the possibility of oil from the cylinder migrating to the oil valve...that scares me. If its clean oil, and say it does migrate down...my thoughts are, the internal components must be pretty dirty to...
Just my thoughts. Good luck

[Garland]

This was purchased 10 years ago as a rebuilt motor. I'm thinking that the builder simply overlooked this passage and piston. I should find that out shortly.

[rgalla9146]

Im a little confused. Is this a "used" engine? If it was a newly built engine, why is all that crud in the oil pressure valve, did they not clean the case? As for the possibility of oil from the cylinder migrating to the oil valve...that scares me. If its clean oil, and say it does migrate down...my thoughts are, the internal components must be pretty dirty to...
Just my thoughts. Good luck

I'm confused too...
Aside from the fact that the cap was rusted in place the piston was rusted in place too.
That moisture is probably not just there, you have to assume it's everywhere.
The rim that the cap seals against is totaled.
How will that seal ?

[Garland]

It is a,
1.7 balanced, 260 x 396 cam .006
96mm B/B kit. Looks like the heads were cleaned up, There also 1.7

I took a closer look and can't find any other "crap" in the engine. Strainer is clean. Oil changed after lots of rotations, looks clean. I parley cleaned up the surface of the block were the plug goes, but no real damage. Fished around with the bore scope, and things look ok.

The plug had no markings at all when I started. I don't think it was removed when the rebuild was done. This may be why it was so hard to remove, and all the crud only there?? If the case was washed, with the plug left in?

With piston still in.

Piston removed, before cleanup, notice the shine at the top of the bore.

After cleanup, piston surface looks ok,


This is what I have added to the block, over the last 10 years.
Mallory unlimited distributor, Ordered from Jake.
Weber 40 DCNF air jet 1.80, main 1.25 rebuilt, and set up, true old carb guy.
2.0 SS exchangers
2.0 Triad exhaust

I've started it 3 times, each time for 5 seconds. Twice with out oil flow, except from the filter gasket!

So, I think I'm ok to start the breakin, break-in!

Camara pictures of the laptop screen.

[porschetub]

Im a little confused. Is this a "used" engine? If it was a newly built engine, why is all that crud in the oil pressure valve, did they not clean the case? As for the possibility of oil from the cylinder migrating to the oil valve...that scares me. If its clean oil, and say it does migrate down...my thoughts are, the internal components must be pretty dirty to...
Just my thoughts. Good luck

Good comments (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) that's a lot of crap/rust for a rebuilt motor ,I would suggest a short run and an oil change ASAP???.
Good luck.

Edit,sounds like you have sorted it excellent,those DCNF's are really good carbs and very hard to find now.