Driving lights out oil cooler in?, Oil coolers in front for efficient cool air not hacking up the trunk |
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Driving lights out oil cooler in?, Oil coolers in front for efficient cool air not hacking up the trunk |
stugray |
Aug 9 2016, 02:22 PM
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#21
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,825 Joined: 17-September 09 From: Longmont, CO Member No.: 10,819 Region Association: None |
What are your carb jets?
Do you have access to an AFR gauge? Running lean can cause it to run hot. Once you have hit 250 (for any extended period), you should plan on an oil change. |
wes |
Aug 9 2016, 02:59 PM
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#22
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wes Group: Members Posts: 1,589 Joined: 8-December 07 From: Ukiah Ca Member No.: 8,436 Region Association: Northern California |
I bought this engine already built with about 1500 miles on it my knowledge or lack of knowledge is why I bought the engine complete and had it installed. I don't know anything about what the Jets are only that I have Webers 40. When I first got the car back the with the new engine it was very aggressive and burning way too much gas to me, you could smell the unburned gas even on my clothes so the guy at the shop determened that he should lean them down. I honestly like the way it power wise was when it was burning too much gas but lack of knowledge leaves me a bit dumb in reality.
I did do an oil change and went with a different oil. |
Dominic |
Aug 9 2016, 03:06 PM
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#23
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Dominic Group: Members Posts: 992 Joined: 14-January 03 From: Vacaville, CA Member No.: 149 Region Association: Northern California |
Wes,
Have you looked at the cooling flaps and thermostat that controls the flaps? Are they installed/working? If your cooling system is all working properly there should be no overheating problems with a 2056. You can unbolt some tins and look for any obstructions near the oil cooler (like a rag that got sucked in there). Just some ideas before you add the oil cooler. Also make sure the openings on the bottom of each side of the aluminum cooling shroud are not blocked off. They should be connected to your heat exchangers if you have it all hooked up for heat. If they are blocked off you will create cooling problems...don't ask me how I know this ;-( Hope you can find an easy fix for your problem. Cheers, Dominic |
wes |
Aug 9 2016, 03:19 PM
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#24
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wes Group: Members Posts: 1,589 Joined: 8-December 07 From: Ukiah Ca Member No.: 8,436 Region Association: Northern California |
Wes, Have you looked at the cooling flaps and thermostat that controls the flaps? Are they installed/working? If your cooling system is all working properly there should be no overheating problems with a 2056. You can unbolt some tins and look for any obstructions near the oil cooler (like a rag that got sucked in there). Just some ideas before you add the oil cooler. Also make sure the openings on the bottom of each side of the aluminum cooling shroud are not blocked off. They should be connected to your heat exchangers if you have it all hooked up for heat. If they are blocked off you will create cooling problems...don't ask me how I know this ;-( Hope you can find an easy fix for your problem. Cheers, Dominic The flaps are on and flexible seem to be good to me and I checked the thermostat when I get back from Jeff's celebration after talking to Andy and others. I'll have to check for any blockage later when I get home. |
jim_hoyland |
Aug 9 2016, 03:39 PM
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#25
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Get that VIN ? Group: Members Posts: 9,321 Joined: 1-May 03 From: Sunset Beach, CA Member No.: 643 Region Association: Southern California |
I used to get up there in oil temps too; the remote oil cooler was a marginal improvement. When I changed out the stock distributer for a Mallory Unilite, temps became very acceptable; plus, my motor stopped pinging on hills, and the acceleration through the range of rpms was better. Not an expert on any of this, but I've never approached 250 deg again and I recently drove from Arizona back to the coast with no elevated temps.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Rand |
Aug 9 2016, 03:58 PM
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#26
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Cross Member Group: Members Posts: 7,409 Joined: 8-February 05 From: OR Member No.: 3,573 Region Association: None |
I used to get up there in oil temps too; the remote oil cooler was a marginal improvement. When I changed out the stock distributer for a Mallory Unilite, temps became very acceptable; plus, my motor stopped pinging on hills, and the acceleration through the range of rpms was better. Not an expert on any of this, but I've never approached 250 deg again and I recently drove from Arizona back to the coast with no elevated temps.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) That means your timing got corrected. And we need to differentiate between temperatures. The stock car has only an oil temp gauge. Oil temp tends to run hotter under retarded timing, whereas head temps run hotter when too advanced. |
wes |
Aug 9 2016, 04:42 PM
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#27
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wes Group: Members Posts: 1,589 Joined: 8-December 07 From: Ukiah Ca Member No.: 8,436 Region Association: Northern California |
Presently at my sons Cub Scout camp and leaving soon 2 hr drive home checking more once home. The flaps I spoke of checking was not what you mention so I'll check all then. Thanks everyone , just got to love the 914world such a great bunch of people! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)
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brant |
Aug 10 2016, 05:52 AM
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#28
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 11,640 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Colorado Member No.: 47 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
I agree with a timing check
Cutting the center panel for a cooler is much easier than the fog light area for work and duct access |
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