After about 20 min of freeway driving under nromal conditions my oil is getting to hot on my 2.0 - 4 now 2056. As a result I've looked at a number of ideas for external cooling in the rear and feel that the best way is really up front though don't realy want to cut into the trunk area. I'm considering removing the fog lights and installing a oil cooler in each of the fog light locations and venting to the rear of the front tires. I'm just in the thought stage after talking with some of the guys at Jeffs celebration Saturday. I realy like the way Andy has done his though just can't bring myself to cut into my new paint or give up my trunk area besides I want to keep her a bit stock looking so I've been looking at a number post here of the set ups in the rear and worry about the efficiency in an area that is heated by the engine, exhaust, and blacktop though certainly less $$ I'm sure. Has any one successfully done this or seen it before? Click to view attachment

I think it could easily be done by ducting under the front trunk ala DPD. Look at the condensor unit and picture an oil cooler in its place. Done. Best of all not visible from any corner of the car and bumper/spoiler changes.

Ok I'm a bit slow, DPD and I have no condenser unit?

Perfect just what I had in mind! So looks like it's vented out in front of the tires, no problems with heat to brakes and tires? What oil coolers did you use?

Yup. I did exactly that on my last Six with a 3.0, using two VW oil coolers, one in each foglight grill opening, connected together and run to a turbo thermostat by the engine. All braided SS lines, bullet proof and never got over 180-190 driving in the Bay Area in the summer. I will look to see if I can find a picture....that was before digital cameras....jeeze, how old am I?

Don't talk about old I'm turning 70 next month and people are falling off around me!

Look here for a plethora of ex cooler ideas:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=108328

The orange 914 with the dual oil coolers belongs to Brant who posted a build thread some time ago. Great thread and a beautiful car. See the link below for more photos of the oil cooler installation. Impressive.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=19706

Wow ! and that was back in 2004....verrrry nice !

My front trunk is perfect..rear trunk not so much

The setup in the orange car (post#4) eliminates room for the head lights.
OK for a race car 914, no so great for a highway driven 914 (post#1).

Realy amazed at the Orange car and thought at first it was my answer but yes after looking at the amazing build tread realized the race car had no need for headlights. Not giving up on the idea though hoping to see photos from Cairo94507. Wonder if it's possible to tunnel the air back from that location to another and exit out.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...2



I could still have operational headlights with those.
Last race weekend was over 100 on the track and my oil never got over 220.

They intake through the foglamp holes and out through the wheel wells

It would probably be easier and cheaper to find out why it's overheating and fix that instead of trying to band-aid the real problem with an external cooler.

Even a 2056, normal driving, it should not overheat.
In my first 914, I installed an oil cooler and it didn't help, turns out it was my temp sender that was messed up, nothing wrong with the engine otherwise.

Can't hurt to put a cooler in but it shouldn't overheat in normal driving conditions. Could be something pretty simple. Flaps/thermostat working? All the tin in place?

BTW Shane that cooler setup is SWEEET.

We kind of just talked about this last weekend. What actual temperature numbers are you seeing, Wes? (Did I miss where you said that? )

Last weekend the poster was worried about 210 degrees, which is within the realm of normal. I'd hate to see steel get cut and expensive solutions put in place that aren't needed.

He said it goes up to 250 during normal driving, which is certainly NOT normal and way too high ...

I agree defiantly after talking with the guys Saturday I checked the thermostat as soon as I got back home and it seems to be good. I have oil temp, head temp and the dipstick temp gauge. I'm guessing the head temperature would read out temperatures at a defferant rate and forgot to check the dipstick gauge wich I kind of think would not be as accurate but not sure and just didn't think to check it. I am going to go for a drive later today and compare them as its supposed to be in the mid 90 here today would love to replace the sender and be done with it. I also would like to look for someone to check the timing carbs and anything else that may cause her to run hot as well. I've used a shop in Oakland years that is about 2 hours south of my home in Ukiah and have always been happy with them in the past but can't hurt to check with a different shop. If anyone has a shop they believe in that might be closer with knowledge of our cars would realy like to hear of them. Im not just wanting to add more to the car to cool it but seem to be two sides on the temperature and 2056 engines some saying (my present shop) that it's a good idea and after this weekend talking to people that I regard as very knowledgeable need to check more. I've been waiting to get out and realy drive this car for so long I'm probably kind over anxious.

What are your carb jets?
Do you have access to an AFR gauge?
Running lean can cause it to run hot.

Once you have hit 250 (for any extended period), you should plan on an oil change.

I bought this engine already built with about 1500 miles on it my knowledge or lack of knowledge is why I bought the engine complete and had it installed. I don't know anything about what the Jets are only that I have Webers 40. When I first got the car back the with the new engine it was very aggressive and burning way too much gas to me, you could smell the unburned gas even on my clothes so the guy at the shop determened that he should lean them down. I honestly like the way it power wise was when it was burning too much gas but lack of knowledge leaves me a bit dumb in reality.
I did do an oil change and went with a different oil.

Wes,
Have you looked at the cooling flaps and thermostat that controls the flaps? Are they installed/working? If your cooling system is all working properly there should be no overheating problems with a 2056. You can unbolt some tins and look for any obstructions near the oil cooler (like a rag that got sucked in there). Just some ideas before you add the oil cooler. Also make sure the openings on the bottom of each side of the aluminum cooling shroud are not blocked off. They should be connected to your heat exchangers if you have it all hooked up for heat. If they are blocked off you will create cooling problems...don't ask me how I know this ;-(

Hope you can find an easy fix for your problem.

Cheers,
Dominic

The flaps are on and flexible seem to be good to me and I checked the thermostat when I get back from Jeff's celebration after talking to Andy and others. I'll have to check for any blockage later when I get home.

I used to get up there in oil temps too; the remote oil cooler was a marginal improvement. When I changed out the stock distributer for a Mallory Unilite, temps became very acceptable; plus, my motor stopped pinging on hills, and the acceleration through the range of rpms was better. Not an expert on any of this, but I've never approached 250 deg again and I recently drove from Arizona back to the coast with no elevated temps....

That means your timing got corrected.

And we need to differentiate between temperatures. The stock car has only an oil temp gauge. Oil temp tends to run hotter under retarded timing, whereas head temps run hotter when too advanced.

Presently at my sons Cub Scout camp and leaving soon 2 hr drive home checking more once home. The flaps I spoke of checking was not what you mention so I'll check all then. Thanks everyone , just got to love the 914world such a great bunch of people!

I agree with a timing check

Cutting the center panel for a cooler is much easier than the fog light area for work and duct access