MicroSquit Conversion, Giving this a try Options

[crash914]

You most likely will need to adjust your fuel pressure. Stock D-jet systems used 2 bar fuel pressure. If you look at your flow sheet, minimum flow was 3 bar. This might not make any difference, except for the flow pattern of the spray at 2 bar. (Volume however, is completely different and will require tuning after any change)

[Mblizzard]

You most likely will need to adjust your fuel pressure. Stock D-jet systems used 2 bar fuel pressure. If you look at your flow sheet, minimum flow was 3 bar. This might not make any difference, except for the flow pattern of the spray at 2 bar. (Volume however, is completely different and will require tuning after any change)

Yep already adjusted. It seems like the stock fuel pressure regulator tops out at about 50 lbs. I am at about 43 lbs. now so I will used that as the starting point.

Also you get some good info for programing the fuel set up regarding
dead times. Not sure how much difference it makes but the software suggested a dead time of 0.9 ms at 13.2 volts. Looks like I have 0.622 ms.

[Mblizzard]

VW Passat idle air control valve for cold starts. Hopefully better than the 40 year old Auxiliary air valve. At this one can be controlled.

This is exactly what I need to add for my car.

Zach

Got it for $28 off evil bay. I can get you the link.

Here is the Link.

[VaccaRabite]

VW Passat idle air control valve for cold starts. Hopefully better than the 40 year old Auxiliary air valve. At this one can be controlled.

This is exactly what I need to add for my car.

Zach

Got it for $28 off evil bay. I can get you the link.

Thanks!

Zach

[Mblizzard]

Not a lot of progress. Checking wires and settings. Hope tô Starr this weekend.

[VaccaRabite]

VW Passat idle air control valve for cold starts. Hopefully better than the 40 year old Auxiliary air valve. At this one can be controlled.

This is exactly what I need to add for my car.

Zach

Got it for $28 off evil bay. I can get you the link.

Thanks

Zach

Does the connector on your IAC have only 2 prongs and 2 wires or 3 prongs and you only used 2 wires?
Zach

[Mblizzard]

VW Passat idle air control valve for cold starts. Hopefully better than the 40 year old Auxiliary air valve. At this one can be controlled.

This is exactly what I need to add for my car.

Zach

Got it for $28 off evil bay. I can get you the link.

Thanks

Zach

Does the connector on your IAC have only 2 prongs and 2 wires or 3 prongs and you only used 2 wires?
Zach

It is a 2 wire. Forgot to buy the connector so I had to make one. Seems to work well using the PWM method. I have just verified the operation and have not verified the settings required to keep the car running.

[Mblizzard]

Well so close yet nothing. Seems like I have about everything wired up but can't get it to run. Seems like somehow I am failing to be able to trigger the injectors off the coil. No fuel!

Stumped at this point.

[McMark]

Triggering off the coil sucks. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

[Mblizzard]

Ok had is give up on the coil trigger. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sheeplove.gif)

But I have a 123 electronic dizzy with electronic trigger points. So I thought why not pull a signal off of the electronic points. So I removed all of the coil set up and used the VR channel to pick up a tach signal. And it worked. So it is not perfect as I just used the basic trigger method and I think I have some adjustments to do to smooth it out. But it started and runs. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

Running rich and erratic on the tach signal but running.

Any thoughts on the tigger angle offset! I thin that the tach is reading high as it may be seeing double the pluses at the dizzy as it would see at the crank.

[McMark]

The offset angle won't really matter while you're not controlling ignition with the MS. Injector spray timing isn't anywhere close to critical. If it's a few milliseconds off the fuel will essentially just wait in the port for the valve to open.

So the electronic points is essentially a TDC trigger, but it doesn't matter if TDC in reality is sync'd with TDC in the computer. That's what offset angle is for, to fine tune (or sync) the computer and the engine. When you're controlling ignition from the MS, it's crititcally important that TDC be in sync, so when the computer is trying to provide 12degrees of advance, that's actually happening at 12 degrees BTDC.

Fuel doesn't really care.

But if you ever try to run ignition, none of this will work.

[Mblizzard]

The offset angle won't really matter while you're not controlling ignition with the MS. Injector spray timing isn't anywhere close to critical. If it's a few milliseconds off the fuel will essentially just wait in the port for the valve to open.

So the electronic points is essentially a TDC trigger, but it doesn't matter if TDC in reality is sync'd with TDC in the computer. That's what offset angle is for, to fine tune (or sync) the computer and the engine. When you're controlling ignition from the MS, it's crititcally important that TDC be in sync, so when the computer is trying to provide 12degrees of advance, that's actually happening at 12 degrees BTDC.

Fuel doesn't really care.

But if you ever try to run ignition, none of this will work.

Seem to be getting double,tach signal out of trigger points. Any way tom1/2 that in the software.

[McMark]

Check the dual/multi spark options under ignition. You might have luck setting it to Single Cam Wheel Input.

[Mblizzard]

Check the dual/multi spark options under ignition. You might have luck setting it to Single Cam Wheel Input.

I am using Tunner Studios and don't see this option.

As a back up get me a quote for a trigger wheel and sensor as I am tired of screwing with this.

[VaccaRabite]

Did you ever hardwire the bluetooth adapter in? How are you powering it, since the Microsquirt serial cable does not send power?

Zach

[McMark]

I am using Tunner Studios and don't see this option.

It's under the Ignition Setup -> Dual/Multi Spark Options. You are running the MicroSquirt firmware, right? MSII firmware has different menus.

As a back up get me a quote for a trigger wheel and sensor as I am tired of screwing with this.

A VR/Hall sensor and toothed wheel is the only way to go, whether it's my setup, Mario's setup, or homemade. Reliable RPM is necessary to correctly calculate fuel demands and if you ever want to run ignition is absolutely necessary.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=97550

[Mblizzard]

Did you ever hardwire the bluetooth adapter in? How are you powering it, since the Microsquirt serial cable does not send power?

Zach

Pretty straight forward. Used a cheap 12V to 5V Power Supply with Mini USB Interface. About $8 Amazon.



Ran the standard cable to center consul and ready to go.

[Mblizzard]

I am using Tunner Studios and don't see this option.

It's under the Ignition Setup -> Dual/Multi Spark Options. You are running the MicroSquirt firmware, right? MSII firmware has different menus.

As a back up get me a quote for a trigger wheel and sensor as I am tired of screwing with this.

A VR/Hall sensor and toothed wheel is the only way to go, whether it's my setup, Mario's setup, or homemade. Reliable RPM is necessary to correctly calculate fuel demands and if you ever want to run ignition is absolutely necessary.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=97550

Well taking this approach will require an engine drop (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Not what I want to do.

There has to be some way to make this coil approach work. Going to work with the coil a bit more to see if I can get something working.

What I really need is a way to get the trigger point signal into the ECU.

[McMark]

What I really need is a way to get the trigger point signal into the ECU.

That would be 1/4 engine speed.

[Mblizzard]

What I really need is a way to get the trigger point signal into the ECU.

That would be 1/4 engine speed.

I am thinking 1/2. The signal is separated into 2 banks and I only will use one of them since it is batch fire.