I started to Putting together my SIX Options

[ArtechnikA]

QUOTE (Kerrys914 @ May 12 2005, 11:14 AM)

Does anyone have a timing mark template for a non-914/6 flywheel?

since the flywheel is out of the car, you can very carefully measure the distance around the outside. when you divide that by 360 (the number of degrees in the circle) you'll have a number that indicates the distance per degree. T's time to 35* total advance, so for sure you want one mark there, and one mark at TDC (Z1). (for comparison, E's time to 30* BTDC -- might be a good idea to put a mark there too, because if the E's dizzy has less total mechanical advance that the T's, an E distributor timed for 35* total advance *may* give you more static advance than you'd like...)

QUOTE

So since I have a "T" spec cam and a "E" spec dizzy what performance issues will I expect?

i'll have a look at the 2,2 workshop manuals this weekend and see if i can scan the advance curves for you...

[Kerrys914]

Okay I am working on the Webers this weekend for my 2.2T

The carbs have:
Idle____50
Mains__ 135
Airs ____180
F-tubes__F26
Venturi__32mm


Seems like PMO and other sources like:
Idle____55
Mains__ 125
Airs ____180
F-tubes__F26
Venturi__30mm

I managed to track down some 30mm Vent's BUT what will be the effects of larger mains (too rich?) and smaller idle's ( Lean?).

Cheers

[ArtechnikA]

QUOTE (Kerrys914 @ May 14 2005, 03:05 PM)

I managed to track down some 30mm Vent's BUT what will be the effects of larger mains (too rich?) and smaller idle's ( Lean?).

i'd use the 32's and only back down to 30 if you have a bad off-idle bog.
use the big mains and do plug checks, especially if your fuel mileage remains bad after break-in. fresh engines can use a bit richer mixture...

too-small idles will give you popping through the intakes, crappy uneven idle, and more of that off-idle bog, because Webers traditionally have iffy transition circuits.

if you use the small venturiis and the big mains it may go soft (overrich) at very high load, in which case a 185 air correction might be the ticket.

remind me what flavor of carbs you have ?

(my 2,0 914.6 was running 35mm venturiis and it ran great...)

[Trekkor]

QUOTE

Does anyone have a timing mark template for a non-914/6 flywheel?

Here's how I did mine.

The pulley has the marks. Line up each mark with the split between each of the case halves.
For example: set the mark on the pulley so TDC is at 12 o'clock ( lined up with case split ). Then go around the back of the motor and scribe a nice line on the flywheel with a Dremel or something you like to scratch with in line with the case split.

Move the pulley to each mark and repeat the marking on the flywheel.

I made each 120 degree mark a yellow line and TDC a yellow "T". The 35 or 30 degree mark is a red line.

these marks will prove to be useful for valve adjusts. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)

KT

[Kerrys914]

Thanks (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)

IIRC I have IDA 40's but I'll run out and look. The Carbs were set up for a 2.4 and I am putting them on a 2.2.

Been messing with the float adjustment (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif) for the last hour. The tab is SUPER sensitive. I am trying to get the 18mm at he tab and 12.75'ish at the float.. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif) I'll get it but it is a PITA not having the correct float tool.

[Trekkor]

QUOTE

The tab is SUPER sensitive

Whatever you do, DON'T touch the tabs!!! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ohmy.gif)

Adjustment is super fast and easy by removing/adding shims under the fuel inlet needle valve. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/cool.gif)

Get the fuel level test vial kit from HPH overnight.
It comes with all the shims and instructions.
Rich Bontempi has magical shipping abilties.

KT

[Kerrys914]

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/unsure.gif)

What's the issue with the tabs, breaking? I one carb set and have one to go. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/unsure.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/unsure.gif)

[Trekkor]

As you know there are a lot of nuts that hold the carb top on, plus the gasket.

Taking it off and on is a big pain and you really can't check the fuel level in the bowl anyway. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif)

QUOTE

one carb set and have one to go

With the shim and sight vial, you just remove the needle valve. Add and remove shims to set float bowl height.
It's good to check the fuel level with the motor running.

The drain plugs on the side of each bowl is for the vial. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)

KT

[Trekkor]

here's a little pic (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/cool.gif)

KT

[Cap'n Krusty]

QUOTE (J P Stein @ May 11 2005, 09:28 AM)

QUOTE (Kerrys914 @ May 11 2005, 09:02 AM) I have the cam timing set but still have the dial indicator set up on the intake valve. Can I just measure the Intake valve travel and compare my measured value to the specs for the "T" and "E" cams? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/screwy.gif) Yes. There is enuff diference between the 2 to tell which it is. Ya prolly shoulda done that before you set the timing, but no harm, no foul. I measured a set of suspected T cams with a pair of calipers.....figuring I'd get within .010-.020.... top of lobe to backside minus base circle X 1.5 (I'm told that 1.5 ratio is actully varible by .01 either way due to the actual point of contact rides is about a .08 wide band)...came out with in .003 (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/confused24.gif)

Why don't you just LOOK at the numbers on the cams? They're clearly embossed on the shafts, and visible from the openings in the cam towers. I think you'll find that E cams hit the T pistons (I did, with Solex grind cams, which are about the same as E cams), so it's unlikely that they are if the engine was running and you didn't change any major parts. The Cap'n

[J P Stein]

In the world of old used Porsche parts/engines, "things" are not always what they seem.

I pulled apart my 2.4L & found a reduced base circle cam.....humm, whatdaya suppose these numbers mean?

Opened another one & found the oil pump had a hole that corroded thru the case....then patched with some kina' JBweldish stuff. 911 motors are like a box of choclates....

Some of your fellow professional mechanics are HACKS.

[ArtechnikA]

the 2,7S i bought (good price, couldn't resist) has at least one Motor Meister rebuild on it. the guy i bought it from said it ran great (as you would expect, but i do trust this guy) although he says it has some leaks and may be pulling some studs (sounds like no inserts...)

i'm expecting quite the chamber of horrors in there when i get it open... we will see, and you will see the results here...