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> Cooling problems in the winter., i may have goofed
tazz9924
post Nov 19 2016, 04:33 PM
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Ok, So, i have an ej205 in my car and until recently ive had just a hose going from one end of the heater pipes to the other. But lately i got the big idea to move to the 20th century and so i added a heater core up front. this meant ~ 20' of 5/8" heater hose (autozone was just thrilled) filled the hoses with water added a bleeder and BAM heat......Or so i thought. My car ran consistently 170-180 now at idle im around 207-208 and it climbs to 230 before im too scared to drive more. ive been attempting to bleed it for three days scolding myself all along they way. What have i done wrong or what can i try, ive been on hills stopped suddenly and swerved hardcore. is it possible that now my car just runs hotter or is there a magic trick for removing air please help!
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matthepcat
post Nov 19 2016, 05:13 PM
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I suggest adding some pictures of your system. Hard to visualize with what you described.
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tazz9924
post Nov 19 2016, 05:57 PM
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sorry for the crappy photo. then the heater core is in the fresh airbox with lines going through the old heater ducts.Attached Image
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Andyrew
post Nov 19 2016, 06:00 PM
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Betcha its air.
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matthepcat
post Nov 19 2016, 06:17 PM
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^^ I agree ^^

You're introducing more tubing for air to hide.

Is your heater core set up like Mikes here? : http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...105071&st=0

Where are you tapping in for hot water?

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zipedadoo
post Nov 19 2016, 07:09 PM
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Make sure your heater core and hoses are not blocked. I put a shut off valve on one of my heater hoses and if I turn it off the car runs hot.

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tazz9924
post Nov 19 2016, 07:40 PM
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QUOTE(matthepcat @ Nov 19 2016, 04:17 PM) *

^^ I agree ^^

You're introducing more tubing for air to hide.

Is your heater core set up like Mikes here? : http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...105071&st=0

Where are you tapping in for hot water?

Attached Image

what is the 4 way hot wayer valve? also my air bleed is right next to the heater core
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914_teener
post Nov 19 2016, 07:44 PM
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QUOTE(zipedadoo @ Nov 19 2016, 05:09 PM) *

Make sure your heater core and hoses are not blocked. I put a shut off valve on one of my heater hoses and if I turn it off the car runs hot.



Yep....if there is no bypass ,then you have added a lot of restriction until it gets to the radiator.

A crude sketch would help. Normally the bypass is taken by the stat and not inline with the main cooling hose as the schematic shows.

Good luck.
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tazz9924
post Nov 20 2016, 12:09 AM
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so its basically this
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matthepcat
post Nov 20 2016, 03:12 AM
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What ports are you pulling hot water off the engine at?
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zipedadoo
post Nov 20 2016, 08:55 AM
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That looks like the same way I ran my heater.

If you close that shutoff valve it will cause the car to over heat.

On a Subaru the collant has to keep flowing in the heater curicut. I read that some where online and I know my car will run hot if I shut the water off to the heater core. Something about the thermostat not working right if that flow is shut off. Apparently we need to use a 4 way heater valve. It will shut off all collant to the heater core yet still keep the coolant flowing on the engine side.

My enginge is a ej22 and I'm not sure if thay are all the same in this regard.

To help get rid of any air in the sytem I am able to fill the system through the "bleeder" near the heater core. I used one of those coolant flush tees with a removable cap and fabricated a funnel to screw on to it.
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zipedadoo
post Nov 20 2016, 09:05 AM
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My funnel/bleeder set up. This way I get a real high point in the system. I put coolant in and squeeze hoses untill it won't suck anymore coolant in.

Kind of crude but it works.



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tazz9924
post Nov 20 2016, 11:26 AM
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QUOTE(zipedadoo @ Nov 20 2016, 06:55 AM) *

That looks like the same way I ran my heater.

To help get rid of any air in the sytem I am able to fill the system through the "bleeder" near the heater core. I used one of those coolant flush tees with a removable cap and fabricated a funnel to screw on to it.


Ive done that with a normal funnel and jesus christ! when the hot water gets to it it starts mixing with the cold water bubbling and popping and over filling the funnel then if i remove the funnel a jet of 200' steam shoots me in the face its mad!..... maybe i should try when its cold. thx for the info on the 4 way valve though (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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tazz9924
post Nov 20 2016, 11:29 AM
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where can i get a 4 way valve? all my hoses r 5/8
P.s. im getting the water from the heater pipes off the engine
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zipedadoo
post Nov 20 2016, 04:56 PM
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I found the 4 way valve on Amazon. They sell a cable or a vacuume operated version.

I would put the valve just off the pipes comming out of the engine.

I only add coolant or try to remove air with the engine off and cold.

Do you have a overflow tank? It realy helps to have one to get rid of trapped air.

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-15-5533-Orig...+shut+off+valve

https://www.amazon.com/Old-Air-Products-25-...r+control+valve
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76-914
post Nov 20 2016, 05:39 PM
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You need one of these:

Attached Image

the other side:

Attached Image

and you should use on of these vacuum reservoirs also: (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

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tazz9924
post Dec 2 2016, 05:53 PM
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I removed the heater because i couldn't bleed it now that i removed it i cant keep it from over heating still! i replaced the thermostat with hopes but no. my hopes were crushes... ive parked it on a hill jacked it up on the hill and still nothing. is there some magic way u guys bleed the system
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rhodyguy
post Dec 2 2016, 06:52 PM
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Have you bought the parts that were suggested? Your rad return line has a steep climb. If that makes any dif. Is there a reason why you guys don't use old school rads with caps? Are the fresh air/heat controls still hooked up?
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76-914
post Dec 2 2016, 07:20 PM
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Take a pic of your hose routing in the engine bay. Be thorough. Include pic's showing your reservoir and/or expansion tank. Show the high points and low points. A drawing is 2 dimensional and emblematic at best. Where is your bleed located in the front trunk?Did you do the build yourself and this is the 1st overheating problem or did someone else build it and since you worked on it the overheating problem began? Once we get this straightened out you can reconnect your heater but you will need the part shown in my previous response. You can pm me if you need. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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tazz9924
post Dec 2 2016, 07:46 PM
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QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Dec 2 2016, 04:52 PM) *

Have you bought the parts that were suggested? Your rad return line has a steep climb. If that makes any dif. Is there a reason why you guys don't use old school rads with caps? Are the fresh air/heat controls still hooked up?

i just put the hose from both of the heater ends coming from the engine back on
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