Ok, So, i have an ej205 in my car and until recently ive had just a hose going from one end of the heater pipes to the other. But lately i got the big idea to move to the 20th century and so i added a heater core up front. this meant ~ 20' of 5/8" heater hose (autozone was just thrilled) filled the hoses with water added a bleeder and BAM heat......Or so i thought. My car ran consistently 170-180 now at idle im around 207-208 and it climbs to 230 before im too scared to drive more. ive been attempting to bleed it for three days scolding myself all along they way. What have i done wrong or what can i try, ive been on hills stopped suddenly and swerved hardcore. is it possible that now my car just runs hotter or is there a magic trick for removing air please help!

I suggest adding some pictures of your system. Hard to visualize with what you described.

sorry for the crappy photo. then the heater core is in the fresh airbox with lines going through the old heater ducts.Click to view attachment

Betcha its air.

^^ I agree ^^

You're introducing more tubing for air to hide.

Is your heater core set up like Mikes here? : http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...105071&st=0

Where are you tapping in for hot water?

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Make sure your heater core and hoses are not blocked. I put a shut off valve on one of my heater hoses and if I turn it off the car runs hot.

what is the 4 way hot wayer valve? also my air bleed is right next to the heater core

Yep....if there is no bypass ,then you have added a lot of restriction until it gets to the radiator.

A crude sketch would help. Normally the bypass is taken by the stat and not inline with the main cooling hose as the schematic shows.

Good luck.

so its basically this
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What ports are you pulling hot water off the engine at?

That looks like the same way I ran my heater.

If you close that shutoff valve it will cause the car to over heat.

On a Subaru the collant has to keep flowing in the heater curicut. I read that some where online and I know my car will run hot if I shut the water off to the heater core. Something about the thermostat not working right if that flow is shut off. Apparently we need to use a 4 way heater valve. It will shut off all collant to the heater core yet still keep the coolant flowing on the engine side.

My enginge is a ej22 and I'm not sure if thay are all the same in this regard.

To help get rid of any air in the sytem I am able to fill the system through the "bleeder" near the heater core. I used one of those coolant flush tees with a removable cap and fabricated a funnel to screw on to it.

My funnel/bleeder set up. This way I get a real high point in the system. I put coolant in and squeeze hoses untill it won't suck anymore coolant in.

Kind of crude but it works.

Ive done that with a normal funnel and jesus christ! when the hot water gets to it it starts mixing with the cold water bubbling and popping and over filling the funnel then if i remove the funnel a jet of 200' steam shoots me in the face its mad!..... maybe i should try when its cold. thx for the info on the 4 way valve though

where can i get a 4 way valve? all my hoses r 5/8
P.s. im getting the water from the heater pipes off the engine

I found the 4 way valve on Amazon. They sell a cable or a vacuume operated version.

I would put the valve just off the pipes comming out of the engine.

I only add coolant or try to remove air with the engine off and cold.

Do you have a overflow tank? It realy helps to have one to get rid of trapped air.

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-15-5533-Orig...+shut+off+valve

https://www.amazon.com/Old-Air-Products-25-...r+control+valve

You need one of these:

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the other side:

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and you should use on of these vacuum reservoirs also:

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I removed the heater because i couldn't bleed it now that i removed it i cant keep it from over heating still! i replaced the thermostat with hopes but no. my hopes were crushes... ive parked it on a hill jacked it up on the hill and still nothing. is there some magic way u guys bleed the system

Have you bought the parts that were suggested? Your rad return line has a steep climb. If that makes any dif. Is there a reason why you guys don't use old school rads with caps? Are the fresh air/heat controls still hooked up?

Take a pic of your hose routing in the engine bay. Be thorough. Include pic's showing your reservoir and/or expansion tank. Show the high points and low points. A drawing is 2 dimensional and emblematic at best. Where is your bleed located in the front trunk?Did you do the build yourself and this is the 1st overheating problem or did someone else build it and since you worked on it the overheating problem began? Once we get this straightened out you can reconnect your heater but you will need the part shown in my previous response. You can pm me if you need.

i just put the hose from both of the heater ends coming from the engine back on

i did the build myself and once i tried installing the heater core after months of perfect operation thats when it happened. it basically heats up to 207' then wont go down despite the thermostat being a 170'

If nothings changed then I'd verify the temp your seeing. If the temp shown is correct check the thermostat, verify the 1/8' hole in it is open. Flush the block and the radiator with a garden hose to verify flow. Install a vent on the high side of the radiator outlet hose. Some people have tapped the outlets on the engine and installed a plug to vent but I didn't find that necessary. Again, more detailed pic's will narrow it down.

ill get some more detailed pics soon. using a laser thermometer thing, the top of the radiator is 200' while the bottom is around like 70' ish

Ok so the hoses r nothing special the go from the engine like any subaru, both go down and run on a line under the car then go straight to the radiator no. leeds except the radiator cap and the overflow tank. my bleed in the back however is the turbo reservoir which has a line going from the block to it, then from it it goes to the turbo and back to the block as simple as can be. the heater pipes on the block have a pipe going from one end to the other no core nothing just 2' of hose. Click to view attachment now whats interesting and exactly what i thought would happen, i pulled the lower radiator hose off while running (dangerous i know) but the fluid in the hose remained stationary instead of being sucked up. meaning the thermostat isn't operating.

more picsClick to view attachment Click to view attachment

Due to the way Subaru operates the thermostat it must have the hot water from the
engine to operate it. If you extend the heater hoses there will not be enough flow
or heat to operate the thermostat, to correct this problem you must install a BOSCH
Aux water pump 0-130-002-070 to keep the heat and flow towards the thermostat to operate the thermostat.

thing is im not even using the heater core anymore and it worked perfectly fine before

As 904svo said, there is no water on the engine side of the thermostat. Did you use a U bend hose to tie the two 15mm nipples that come off the back of the engine for the heater circuit? I don't know about the Bosch pump though. Maybe it's req'd on the 4cyl?? I'm running a six with the 4way by-pass valve I posted and it works like a charm. Those pics aren't very helpful. Take some like you look into the engine bay from both sides of the car. Use some light this time. That 2nd pic looked like a black cat in a coal mine eating licorice.
EDIT: Weird, I click on your pics and they flip over in the correct orientation. Wonder what causes that? Now I can see the coolers vent. It was on it's side before. If your thermostat plate has the 1/8' hole in it you can probably fill that soda jug gizmo up again and remove the cap off the cooler over nite. If you have those 2 heater nipples looped together at the block.

lol. its hard to take pics kinda crammed and dark, and yes its just a u bend in back ill give ur suggestion a try!

hey taz i live in lakewood and would like to sea your car, call me tomorrow if you need someone to hand you wrenches or would like some help, i have done 5 water cooled conversions and am very familiar with cooling problems. logan 253 381 3516

Take him up on that offer Tazz. Two head are better than one. Bet ya'll nail it it less than an hour!