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> Cooling problems in the winter., i may have goofed
tazz9924
post Dec 2 2016, 07:49 PM
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QUOTE(76-914 @ Dec 2 2016, 05:20 PM) *

Take a pic of your hose routing in the engine bay. Be thorough. Include pic's showing your reservoir and/or expansion tank. Show the high points and low points. A drawing is 2 dimensional and emblematic at best. Where is your bleed located in the front trunk?Did you do the build yourself and this is the 1st overheating problem or did someone else build it and since you worked on it the overheating problem began? Once we get this straightened out you can reconnect your heater but you will need the part shown in my previous response. You can pm me if you need. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

i did the build myself and once i tried installing the heater core after months of perfect operation thats when it happened. it basically heats up to 207' then wont go down despite the thermostat being a 170'
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76-914
post Dec 3 2016, 08:57 AM
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If nothings changed then I'd verify the temp your seeing. If the temp shown is correct check the thermostat, verify the 1/8' hole in it is open. Flush the block and the radiator with a garden hose to verify flow. Install a vent on the high side of the radiator outlet hose. Some people have tapped the outlets on the engine and installed a plug to vent but I didn't find that necessary. Again, more detailed pic's will narrow it down. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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tazz9924
post Dec 3 2016, 02:17 PM
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QUOTE(76-914 @ Dec 3 2016, 06:57 AM) *

If nothings changed then I'd verify the temp your seeing. If the temp shown is correct check the thermostat, verify the 1/8' hole in it is open. Flush the block and the radiator with a garden hose to verify flow. Install a vent on the high side of the radiator outlet hose. Some people have tapped the outlets on the engine and installed a plug to vent but I didn't find that necessary. Again, more detailed pic's will narrow it down. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

ill get some more detailed pics soon. using a laser thermometer thing, the top of the radiator is 200' while the bottom is around like 70' ish
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tazz9924
post Dec 3 2016, 03:28 PM
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Ok so the hoses r nothing special the go from the engine like any subaru, both go down and run on a line under the car then go straight to the radiator no. leeds except the radiator cap and the overflow tank. my bleed in the back however is the turbo reservoir which has a line going from the block to it, then from it it goes to the turbo and back to the block as simple as can be. the heater pipes on the block have a pipe going from one end to the other no core nothing just 2' of hose. Attached Image now whats interesting and exactly what i thought would happen, i pulled the lower radiator hose off while running (dangerous i know) but the fluid in the hose remained stationary instead of being sucked up. meaning the thermostat isn't operating.
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tazz9924
post Dec 3 2016, 03:29 PM
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more picsAttached Image Attached Image
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904svo
post Dec 3 2016, 04:14 PM
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Due to the way Subaru operates the thermostat it must have the hot water from the
engine to operate it. If you extend the heater hoses there will not be enough flow
or heat to operate the thermostat, to correct this problem you must install a BOSCH
Aux water pump 0-130-002-070 to keep the heat and flow towards the thermostat to operate the thermostat.
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tazz9924
post Dec 3 2016, 06:31 PM
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QUOTE(904svo @ Dec 3 2016, 02:14 PM) *

Due to the way Subaru operates the thermostat it must have the hot water from the
engine to operate it. If you extend the heater hoses there will not be enough flow
or heat to operate the thermostat, to correct this problem you must install a BOSCH
Aux water pump 0-130-002-070 to keep the heat and flow towards the thermostat to operate the thermostat.

thing is im not even using the heater core anymore and it worked perfectly fine before
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76-914
post Dec 3 2016, 07:33 PM
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QUOTE(tazz9924 @ Dec 3 2016, 04:31 PM) *

QUOTE(904svo @ Dec 3 2016, 02:14 PM) *

Due to the way Subaru operates the thermostat it must have the hot water from the
engine to operate it. If you extend the heater hoses there will not be enough flow
or heat to operate the thermostat, to correct this problem you must install a BOSCH
Aux water pump 0-130-002-070 to keep the heat and flow towards the thermostat to operate the thermostat.

thing is im not even using the heater core anymore and it worked perfectly fine before

As 904svo said, there is no water on the engine side of the thermostat. Did you use a U bend hose to tie the two 15mm nipples that come off the back of the engine for the heater circuit? I don't know about the Bosch pump though. Maybe it's req'd on the 4cyl?? I'm running a six with the 4way by-pass valve I posted and it works like a charm. Those pics aren't very helpful. Take some like you look into the engine bay from both sides of the car. Use some light this time. That 2nd pic looked like a black cat in a coal mine eating licorice. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)
EDIT: Weird, I click on your pics and they flip over in the correct orientation. Wonder what causes that? Now I can see the coolers vent. It was on it's side before. If your thermostat plate has the 1/8' hole in it you can probably fill that soda jug gizmo up again and remove the cap off the cooler over nite. If you have those 2 heater nipples looped together at the block.
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tazz9924
post Dec 3 2016, 10:44 PM
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QUOTE(76-914 @ Dec 3 2016, 05:33 PM) *

QUOTE(tazz9924 @ Dec 3 2016, 04:31 PM) *

QUOTE(904svo @ Dec 3 2016, 02:14 PM) *

Due to the way Subaru operates the thermostat it must have the hot water from the
engine to operate it. If you extend the heater hoses there will not be enough flow
or heat to operate the thermostat, to correct this problem you must install a BOSCH
Aux water pump 0-130-002-070 to keep the heat and flow towards the thermostat to operate the thermostat.

thing is im not even using the heater core anymore and it worked perfectly fine before

As 904svo said, there is no water on the engine side of the thermostat. Did you use a U bend hose to tie the two 15mm nipples that come off the back of the engine for the heater circuit? I don't know about the Bosch pump though. Maybe it's req'd on the 4cyl?? I'm running a six with the 4way by-pass valve I posted and it works like a charm. Those pics aren't very helpful. Take some like you look into the engine bay from both sides of the car. Use some light this time. That 2nd pic looked like a black cat in a coal mine eating licorice. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)
EDIT: Weird, I click on your pics and they flip over in the correct orientation. Wonder what causes that? Now I can see the coolers vent. It was on it's side before. If your thermostat plate has the 1/8' hole in it you can probably fill that soda jug gizmo up again and remove the cap off the cooler over nite. If you have those 2 heater nipples looped together at the block.

lol. its hard to take pics kinda crammed and dark, and yes its just a u bend in back ill give ur suggestion a try!
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xmotox
post Dec 4 2016, 12:55 AM
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hey taz i live in lakewood and would like to sea your car, call me tomorrow if you need someone to hand you wrenches or would like some help, i have done 5 water cooled conversions and am very familiar with cooling problems. logan 253 381 3516
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76-914
post Dec 4 2016, 08:57 AM
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Take him up on that offer Tazz. Two head are better than one. Bet ya'll nail it it less than an hour! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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