Car pops out of 2nd/4th gear with firewall boot on? Options

[JPA914]

Anybody ever run into this problem? I took the linkage boot at the firewall off and now it shifts fine! Boot looked like it was struggling to stretch the necessary distance to keep the linkage in gear. Maybe it shrunk through the years (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[stugray]

Anybody ever run into this problem? I took the linkage boot at the firewall off and now it shifts fine! Boot looked like it was struggling to stretch the necessary distance to keep the linkage in gear. Maybe it shrunk through the years (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

When you move those boots you usually have to "displace" them or slide them around on the shaft.
You must have moved it some and it doesnt want to go back on its own.

for rubber parts like that it is best to lube them with glycerin to get the rubber portion to slide properly.
Glycerin is essentially sterile saliva in a bottle, so you can just use your imagination...



(que the jokes) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

[Mikey914]

Sounds like a throw adjustment at the base of the shifter.

[JPA914]

Sounds like a throw adjustment at the base of the shifter.

In my case, the throws are fine, as the problem disappeared when I disengaged the boot from the firewall. You can see the linkage/shift console moving the same distance for forward and rearward throws, so the adjustment appears correct.

I'm just going to leave the boot off, as it shifts perfectly like this. If dirt gets to the bushing, oh well! I just replaced them so I know how to do it now (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Dave_Darling]

Can you see the boot interfering with the motion? If not, there may be some other problem that will eventually re-surface.

If you can see where it is interfering, you may be able to rotate or move the boot around to where the interference does not occur.

--DD

[Mikey914]

My thought was the boot made up just enough tension the engagement was not complete. Without the boot (1/16"??) it was not fully pressed into the gear allowing the torque to pop it out. So yes without the boot it is correct, but you just need a little more throw.

[JPA914]

My thought was the boot made up just enough tension the engagement was not complete. Without the boot (1/16"??) it was not fully pressed into the gear allowing the torque to pop it out. So yes without the boot it is correct, but you just need a little more throw.

This doesn't really make sense as the linkage moves the correct distance to engage reverse, 2nd, and 4th without the boot. Only when I install the boot does the linkage struggle to engage these gears. In other words, the boot isn't stretching enough to allow the linkage to move the necessary distance. Even when I can engage these gears with the boot on, the tension of the stretched boot pulls the linkage towards the front of the car, popping out of gear.

This is all a lot clearer when you actually watch the linkage move and observe the tension on the boot. So I know what the problem is. Just wanted to give a heads up to anyone who may have the same issue.

[Mikey914]

Is the boot an aftermarket boot?

As far as the comment, think of the gear selector as an over center mechanism. The torque will normally pull the gear in and lock it. The addition of a "spring" to the assembly may allow it to roll out and not over center.

This is why I was thinking tha y about additional 1/16" may help the process. If it's a factory boot. If it's aftermarket, could be just the boot.

And yes l, I have seen this with the OEM, and this is what I did that worked for me.

[IronHillRestorations]

Do you have the stock bushing? I've seen a problem with the spherical bushing installed wrong.

[IronHillRestorations]

Do you have the stock bushing? I've seen a problem with the spherical bushing installed wrong.

[IronHillRestorations]

Do you have the stock bushing? I've seen a problem with the spherical bushing installed wrong.