Finally Building my Workshop...Please critique, Yes...914 content! Options

[billh1963]

So, after several false starts I'm finally building my workshop for my 914's and other stuff. Will be breaking ground right after the first of the year.

Building will be a truss 40x50 (2000 sq. ft.) with a 6" foundation (3500 psi).

Walls are 12'. Windows will be 8' off the ground. This will provide some light, opportunity for airflow and the height will help with security. 4 rollup doors and one walk through.

Walls and ceiling will have closed cell R12 insulation.

I'm finalizing the layout of the doors and windows over the next few days before the build order goes in. Once the order goes in it will be an 8 week wait for delivery then 2-3 days installation.

The bathroom and tool room will be built later so there is flexibility in that. Of course, the location of the bathroom fixtures will be set once the foundation is poured.

The building (door openings, windows, etc) are drawn to scale as are the cars (911 dimensions).

So, any suggestions on layout? NOTE: The rollup doors on the end are better suited for the land it's going on. Plus, as a bonus, placing them on the end is less expensive than side doors.

[rhodyguy]

Beef up the R-value if you can afford it. Spray foam?

[billh1963]

Beef up the R-value if you can afford it. Spray foam?

No...some sort of closed cell space age stuff that comes in rolls. It's not very thick at all.

[76-914]

Do you see a utility sink, drinking fountain, floor drain, etc. in your future. If so, have your plumber run the drainage pipe for the same before you pour. Pipes can be capped slightly below slab level and carefully marked and located on our plans. When needed it's easy to pop a hole with a small hammer. Just be sure that said piping has the hub so you won't need to chip around the pipe. I wouldn't do this in an area where weight might pop thru the thin area of concrete such as a floor drain in the center of the shop. ps I would strongly recommend a urinal install. The toilet will get peed in 10 times more than #2 and your on a septic.

[billh1963]

Do you see a utility sink, drinking fountain, floor drain, etc. in your future. If so, have your plumber run the drainage pipe for the same before you pour. Pipes can be capped slightly below slab level and carefully marked and located on our plans. When needed it's easy to pop a hole with a small hammer. Just be sure that said piping has the hub so you won't need to chip around the pipe. I wouldn't do this in an area where weight might pop thru the thin area of concrete such as a floor drain in the center of the shop. ps I would strongly recommend a urinal install. The toilet will get peed in 10 times more than #2 and your on a septic.

Good points about the floor drain and a urinal!

I plan on having a utility sink...I just didn't the utility sink, tool work stations, etc. in the drawing. I should put those in so people can catch all the overlooked items.

[IronHillRestorations]

I'd probably route the water lines through to the interior wall and flip the lavatory floor plan.

You want to have a floor drain, and depending on what your future plans are, maybe some anchor pots.

Another thing to consider, depending on your air flow and HVAC plans, is to use transom windows high on the wall, so you aren't giving up any wall space but still get the natural light.

I have skylights in my building(metal over wood pole frame), but they are prone to leaks. If I were to build it again, I'd put a band of skylight windows all around the top of the wall.

[billh1963]

I'd probably route the water lines through to the interior wall and flip the lavatory floor plan.

You want to have a floor drain, and depending on what your future plans are, maybe some anchor pots.

Another thing to consider, depending on your air flow and HVAC plans, is to use transom windows high on the wall, so you aren't giving up any wall space but still get the natural light.

I have skylights in my building(metal over wood pole frame), but they are prone to leaks. If I were to build it again, I'd put a band of skylight windows all around the top of the wall.

Yes...these windows will be 8' up on the wall

[mlindner]

BillH that looks great....200 amp service, compressed air...can the trusses carry load for some storage area up stairs. Looks like your going to lots of fun. Best, Mark

[siverson]

Neat. I went through a remodel and did something similar.

Don't forget 1 (or 4 to be safe) ethernet runs, even if just to setup a Wifi access point.

-Steve

[mepstein]

Are you keeping your tools in a tool chest in the tool room? That seems like a pain if your actively working on cars.

[Tom_T]

Beef up the R-value if you can afford it. Spray foam?

No...some sort of closed cell space age stuff that comes in rolls. It's not very thick at all.

Bill,

At 12' stud ht., you're probably already at 2x6 studs per local code, & you can probably still be 2x6 at 14' ht., which will give you more clearance to park 2x on/under the lifts, & to put a taller car/truck/suv on the lift at full height extension.

Also, forget the space age stuff, & go with either 6" sprayed in foam or fiberglass rolled batt insulation (former can be done by a pro or some self-applied kits, latter are available at Home Despot & most other DIYs), so you'd be at something close to R30-40.

Don't forget to do the roof/ceiling insulation too at R30-40, plus you can add rigid foam sheets insulation under the slab too for better thermal control in your area's winters (usually in the R10-20 range), & don't forget the moisture barriers under the slab, in walls & roof. Because you'll want the attic space insulated/moisture controlled for parts storage too.

Also make sure that all the roll-up doors & man-doors are insulated & weather sealed. .... ditto for windows.

You'll pay for the insulation in lower HVAC costs & smaller unit within a couple of years, if not sooner, with lower initial system purchase/sizing & running costs.

Also, make sure you have the site graded for at least 10% drainage away from the slab & driveway, with a swale(s) to carry heavy rains/run-off away from the "Barn" so you won't have any flooding nor moisture problems.

Good Luck! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
Tom
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[Coondog]

Do you see a utility sink, drinking fountain, floor drain, etc. in your future. If so, have your plumber run the drainage pipe for the same before you pour. Pipes can be capped slightly below slab level and carefully marked and located on our plans. When needed it's easy to pop a hole with a small hammer.

I did this on my building and it saved me tons of money on my property tax as the inspector signed it off as a storage shed. Of course he knew I would come back later and finish the work without a permit when he saw my grounding rod sticking out of the footing.

[mlindner]

I would flip the bath and add utility sink back to back, add steps to storage above tool room across to above bath(easy to do) or larger area if trusses permit. Mark

[914GT]

Better check local codes on a floor drain. I know it would be handy, especially in snow country, but if oil, gas or antifreeze accidentally went into your septic tank you may have a big problem.

[DaveO90s4]

Where will your workbench go? You will want that beneath windows. Also, you can't have too many power points. For your hoist(s) will you need a higher amperage circuit?

Cheers

Dave

[billh1963]

Where will your workbench go? You will want that beneath windows. Also, you can't have too many power points. For your hoist(s) will you need a higher amperage circuit?

Work benches will go against the side without the walk out door. That will be one continuous wall and I'm thinking of getting something like these:

Garage Cabinets and Work bench

[billh1963]

Better check local codes on a floor drain. I know it would be handy, especially in snow country, but if oil, gas or antifreeze accidentally went into your septic tank you may have a big problem.

This isn't in snow country. Although, there are occasional flurries.

It's on my farm and, as far as a I know, there are no codes regarding such things. That being said, even though I am by NO MEANS a tree hugger I certainly don't want to pollute my ground water. I might look at putting in a catch barrel/basin.

Thank you for bringing that up.

[billh1963]

I would flip the bath and add utility sink back to back, add steps to storage above tool room across to above bath(easy to do) or larger area if trusses permit. Mark

That's a good idea. I'll think more on that...thank you

[ConeDodger]

Bill, if I understand your addiction correctly that might not be big enough? Plus where will you put the chassis Dyno? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)

[Michael N]

I think you are missing a space for a fridge, couch, and big screen tv. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)