So, after several false starts I'm finally building my workshop for my 914's and other stuff. Will be breaking ground right after the first of the year.

Building will be a truss 40x50 (2000 sq. ft.) with a 6" foundation (3500 psi).

Walls are 12'. Windows will be 8' off the ground. This will provide some light, opportunity for airflow and the height will help with security. 4 rollup doors and one walk through.

Walls and ceiling will have closed cell R12 insulation.

I'm finalizing the layout of the doors and windows over the next few days before the build order goes in. Once the order goes in it will be an 8 week wait for delivery then 2-3 days installation.

The bathroom and tool room will be built later so there is flexibility in that. Of course, the location of the bathroom fixtures will be set once the foundation is poured.

The building (door openings, windows, etc) are drawn to scale as are the cars (911 dimensions).

So, any suggestions on layout? NOTE: The rollup doors on the end are better suited for the land it's going on. Plus, as a bonus, placing them on the end is less expensive than side doors.

Click to view attachment

Beef up the R-value if you can afford it. Spray foam?

No...some sort of closed cell space age stuff that comes in rolls. It's not very thick at all.

Do you see a utility sink, drinking fountain, floor drain, etc. in your future. If so, have your plumber run the drainage pipe for the same before you pour. Pipes can be capped slightly below slab level and carefully marked and located on our plans. When needed it's easy to pop a hole with a small hammer. Just be sure that said piping has the hub so you won't need to chip around the pipe. I wouldn't do this in an area where weight might pop thru the thin area of concrete such as a floor drain in the center of the shop. ps I would strongly recommend a urinal install. The toilet will get peed in 10 times more than #2 and your on a septic.

Good points about the floor drain and a urinal!

I plan on having a utility sink...I just didn't the utility sink, tool work stations, etc. in the drawing. I should put those in so people can catch all the overlooked items.

I'd probably route the water lines through to the interior wall and flip the lavatory floor plan.

You want to have a floor drain, and depending on what your future plans are, maybe some anchor pots.

Another thing to consider, depending on your air flow and HVAC plans, is to use transom windows high on the wall, so you aren't giving up any wall space but still get the natural light.

I have skylights in my building(metal over wood pole frame), but they are prone to leaks. If I were to build it again, I'd put a band of skylight windows all around the top of the wall.

Yes...these windows will be 8' up on the wall

BillH that looks great....200 amp service, compressed air...can the trusses carry load for some storage area up stairs. Looks like your going to lots of fun. Best, Mark

Neat. I went through a remodel and did something similar.

Don't forget 1 (or 4 to be safe) ethernet runs, even if just to setup a Wifi access point.

-Steve

Are you keeping your tools in a tool chest in the tool room? That seems like a pain if your actively working on cars.

Bill,

At 12' stud ht., you're probably already at 2x6 studs per local code, & you can probably still be 2x6 at 14' ht., which will give you more clearance to park 2x on/under the lifts, & to put a taller car/truck/suv on the lift at full height extension.

Also, forget the space age stuff, & go with either 6" sprayed in foam or fiberglass rolled batt insulation (former can be done by a pro or some self-applied kits, latter are available at Home Despot & most other DIYs), so you'd be at something close to R30-40.

Don't forget to do the roof/ceiling insulation too at R30-40, plus you can add rigid foam sheets insulation under the slab too for better thermal control in your area's winters (usually in the R10-20 range), & don't forget the moisture barriers under the slab, in walls & roof. Because you'll want the attic space insulated/moisture controlled for parts storage too.

Also make sure that all the roll-up doors & man-doors are insulated & weather sealed. .... ditto for windows.

You'll pay for the insulation in lower HVAC costs & smaller unit within a couple of years, if not sooner, with lower initial system purchase/sizing & running costs.

Also, make sure you have the site graded for at least 10% drainage away from the slab & driveway, with a swale(s) to carry heavy rains/run-off away from the "Barn" so you won't have any flooding nor moisture problems.

Good Luck!
Tom
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I did this on my building and it saved me tons of money on my property tax as the inspector signed it off as a storage shed. Of course he knew I would come back later and finish the work without a permit when he saw my grounding rod sticking out of the footing.

I would flip the bath and add utility sink back to back, add steps to storage above tool room across to above bath(easy to do) or larger area if trusses permit. MarkClick to view attachment

Better check local codes on a floor drain. I know it would be handy, especially in snow country, but if oil, gas or antifreeze accidentally went into your septic tank you may have a big problem.

Where will your workbench go? You will want that beneath windows. Also, you can't have too many power points. For your hoist(s) will you need a higher amperage circuit?

Cheers

Dave

Work benches will go against the side without the walk out door. That will be one continuous wall and I'm thinking of getting something like these:

Garage Cabinets and Work bench

This isn't in snow country. Although, there are occasional flurries.

It's on my farm and, as far as a I know, there are no codes regarding such things. That being said, even though I am by NO MEANS a tree hugger I certainly don't want to pollute my ground water. I might look at putting in a catch barrel/basin.

Thank you for bringing that up.

That's a good idea. I'll think more on that...thank you

Bill, if I understand your addiction correctly that might not be big enough? Plus where will you put the chassis Dyno?

I think you are missing a space for a fridge, couch, and big screen tv.

It's a metal truss building...no wood.

With 12' walls the clear center height is around 15-16'. The center rollup doors will be 10x12 with the two smaller roll up doors at 10x10.

Interior will look something like this:

Click to view attachment

The builder uses r-Foil: rFoil information
Still researching effectiveness of that technology.

Grade isn't a problem...will be built on a hill

Actually, I'm going to build two. The first is for the shop. Then another one later next year with fewer doors (and maybe no insulation) just for storage.

It's really a place to keep my rolling tool boxes, welder (when I get one) and other stuff if I'm away. It's also a place to store my little used specialty tools, expensive spare parts (or parts restored during restoration and not yet installed), and stuff that I wouldn't want to casually "grow legs".

...switch location of shower with sink...door can swing in and more room around shower at the end of the room...a thought.

Oh to have a shop !

Empty conduits everywhere including floor & for electric car charging, hose bib's in side n outside, both sides, one of side bay's with a "swale" in concrete floor for water to drain out if you did do some pressure washing/clean up inside. Small lined catch pond instead of floor drain going to septic. electrical utility circuit inside at each corner & outside too. Small house keeping pad to put air compressor outside in sound proof room. Need conduits in pad too for air & power. Network access w multiple conduits. Have building manufacturer supply load capabilities for I beam track n chain lift n dressing game kills.... Be able to hang sound system n theatrical lights for us when we visit for a 914 function benefiting your favorite nonprofit. Not my first rodeo about sheds...just some ideas

You need some sort of computer station or desk somewhere to be able to go through books, look up resources, parts manuals, look at youtube videos ect. Should have a power outlet and a cat 5 cable ran to it or at least within wifi distance.

Looks fantastic BTW!

you're using the radiant barrier in the link? impressive stuff if it can lower the upper portions by 30*. that's really a nice space you're going to build.

Coolest garage I've ever seen had lights in the floor under the lifts.

dp

Oil would totally kill your weeping bed/tiles. As in dig them up they're done.
So will latex paint and many other things that may get washed in a utility sink.

BTW no washroom in my shop, I pee behind the bushes.

I agree 100%. Without a beer fridge in the plans you'll have to redo them to accommodate one.

yea my shop is little smaller at 12' x 20'.......Beer fridge is in the house. Trying to find a place to store something is a bit%$. Some day I will get my big one.

Most floor drains have to be (french drains),meaning they just drain outside into a shallow area or pet, exposed. Again, this is not for anti-freeze, oil or paint. But nice to wash cars and wash down floors before painting/cleaning. Mark

We keep our air compressors outside. Thank god.
Outside concrete pad for washing cars, power washing parts.
Ceiling fans
Led lights
Use some hardware from a company like nest and control your hvac and view the shop over your cell phone 24/7. It also records and saves it to the net for later viewing and review.

Think about air flow for painting. you need to put the paint booth somewhere, at least plan on big ass fan and filter banks...

I see you mentioned a welder. One of the things I would highly recommend is a dirty room where you would have the welder, blast cabinet, grinders, lathe, etc. Keep all the dirt in one contained area. If I ever get a chance to build new that will be a must have.

Put in plenty of electrical outlets. I didn't put enough in my shop and I regret it. Run outlets to the center as well, not just the walls.
Also, a 220 outlet for your welder.
Finally, I would go with more windows. I only put two in, and it is a bit 'cave like' without some natural lighting!
Looks great though!

That's where you are going to have to decide whether you have a garage or a shop or both. Our blast cabinet, even with a big vacuum, puts off a lot of fine dust, add in grinding and bodywork and we get a constant layer of dust settling in the cars. Do you want a working garage or a storage garage. It's impossible to keep cars clean in a working garage, that's why we added a second storage facility across the parking lot.

That's a good point. That's what others have told me as well. That may be what building 2 becomes...

If you havent poured the slab, I'd do radiant heat in the floor, or at least prep for it. Concur with the input to have a 'shop sink' in the garage as well as Bev fridge.

We buy a roll of sheet plastic from the paint store specifically used to cover cars. Not useful for your daily drivers but will work for overspray and dust on your cars that don't get driven much.

bill, I'm looking at these too- Home depot carries them and had a 50% off sale on them so look for those deals- I was looking at a wall of these too, and yesterday my wife sent me a link from overstock.com for these as well.

I have not ordred but should have when they had the 50% off at HD. -

6.5k? For cabinets? Wow.

One of our mechanics just spent $12k on his tool chest. And that was a discounted price. It does cost money to build out a shop.

Yes...it does.

I have been looking at those New Age cabinets at Home Depot, and they are a lot cheaper. Not as large of a set, but you could buy two and still be less than that. Free shipping to home or store.

LIGHT. You can't have enough of it. I added a garage/shop a few years back. Glass roll-ups, glass man door, windows, sky lights... It's a fantastic space due mostly (I feel) to all the natural light.
Having a telie surround sound is damned nice also.

Makes me wonder why I live in a land of 1/8 acre lots and 550sq/ft max garages

Building a garage is so fun, enjoy it a d do the floors (finish of your choice) before ANYTHING goes in it. 11 years later I still haven't done mine yet.

Hot water heater
Dishwasher (for parts)
Washing machine/dryer (for rags)
Oven (for power coating)
(Craigslist used ones)

Plan for heat? Gas line? Roof stack.

Compressor shed outside -poor a small pad and use some similar tin.

As mentioned above storage above your storage area and also above the bathroom.

Insulated doors as the kits to do this later are a pain and look like crap.

And the laws of garage physics will kick in and things will expand to fill the space and you will need a bigger one. Mine is currentl y 30x50 and it seem small now.