Idle adjust on '73 1.7 Options

[BeatNavy]

Yeah, I thought it was a fuel pressure regulator. It appears to be hooked up correctly...as a fuel pressure regulator.

As Curt mentioned, number 2 is an Auxiliary Air Regulator (sometimes called a Supplementary Air Valve, or something like that). If it's locked closed, then you will have a low idle when cold. Best thing to do is to remove that thing and soak it in PB Blaster or something for a day or two and see if it opens up at room temperature.

Curt was moving quickly. He knows an FPR from a decel valve (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) .

[Rand]

number 2 is an Auxiliary Air Regulator (sometimes called a Supplementary Air Valve, or something like that). If it's locked closed, then you will have a low idle when cold.

No... AAR is a whole 'nother animal. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/c767170.r70.cf2.rackcdn.com-3573-1481672535.1.jpg)

[BeatNavy]

No... AAR is a whole 'nother animal. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Yes, the second one in his picture above! Yikes, this becoming like an Abbot and Costello routine... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

Oye...(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Rand]

You were right though, referring to pic #2 in the OP's post.

Love this place. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[socal1200r]

Decel valve and fuel pressure regulator look similar, but that last pic is definitely fuel pressure regulator.

Decel valve:


FP reg:


You can definitely eliminate the decel valve, but obviously not the fp regulator.

Perfect, that object in my last pic looks definitely like a fp regulator, so it's staying put! I popped the engine lid and shined my flashlight around the engine compartment, and didn't see anything that looked like a decal valve. I'll take a better look tomorrow during the day.

I'll also remove that object in pic #2 and give it a good soak, because my car barely idles when cold, I have to keep my foot on the pedal at 1500 rpms for about 5 minutes before it'll idle enough to not die when coming to a stop. There aren't any surprises about removing that thing, other than the hoses and bolts, are there? There's isn't a spring-loaded jack-in-the-box thing waiting to come shooting out when I lift it off, is there?!

[TheCabinetmaker]

You guys are all absolutely correct that it's definitely a fuel pressure regulator. Should have taken more than a quick glance

[BeatNavy]

There aren't any surprises about removing that thing, other than the hoses and bolts, are there? There's isn't a spring-loaded jack-in-the-box thing waiting to come shooting out when I lift it off, is there?!

The only considerations for the AAR I can think of are:

1. Be careful with the wire lead as shown in Rand's picture above. You really don't want that thing to break off the base of the AAR, and it's kind of delicate.

2. Don't lead the wire lead from the wiring harness that connects to that wire lead on the AAR get grounded (against the engine case or anything else) with the ignition on. I believe that's the lead that will blow a fuse on the relay board if grounded (unless it's the thermo switch lead...can't remember).

There's a really good description of how the AAR works about halfway down on this page: http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/djetparts.htm

[socal1200r]

I read the reference link about what the object in pic #2 does, how they're NLA, how they can be "rejuvenated" or "rebuilt", etc. Copy on being careful with the wire that runs underneath it, making sure it doesn't touch any metal with the key on.

So my question is, would it be okay to soak this thing overnight in a bowl of Coke, then rinse it out with some warm water, then maybe some brake cleaner ('cuz it dries fast), then some compressed air? Makes sense that without a filter of some kind, there will be debris that gets inside this thing, and could easily make the valve stick.

Just don't want to soak it in Coke if it'll muck up the bi-metallic thingys on the inside. Seems that my valve is stuck in the closed position, so don't see what harm cleaning it this way can do?

[BeatNavy]

I don't think that would hurt it if you only did it overnight, but if I was to choose something out of the kitchen, I'd probably go with white vinegar to avoid the syrup/sugar that's in coke. Either way, clean it out thoroughly when you're done as mentioned. Others may know why that is or is not a good idea.

I fixed one by opening it up as described in the rebuild. Wasn't that hard, but it is probably safer to try soaking it in something first.

[TheCabinetmaker]

I agree with Rob about the vinegar and not coke.

[socal1200r]

Vinegar it is then. I have some in the kitchen, for my homemade windshield washer solution. I had similar concerns about using Coke, in that there are some "delicate" metallic things inside that valve body, and I didn't want the sugar in Coke to react badly to it and make things worse. I'll buy a new bottle from the dollar store, and give her a good overnight soak and see if it makes any difference. I figure it couldn't hurt at this point...

[pbanders]

Vinegar it is then. I have some in the kitchen, for my homemade windshield washer solution. I had similar concerns about using Coke, in that there are some "delicate" metallic things inside that valve body, and I didn't want the sugar in Coke to react badly to it and make things worse. I'll buy a new bottle from the dollar store, and give her a good overnight soak and see if it makes any difference. I figure it couldn't hurt at this point...

Wish I'd seen this earlier, I do not advise either vinegar or coke to soak the valve in. What I've done to get several of these working again is to do the following:

1. Test that the heating coil resistance. Remove the valve from the car, let it reach room temperature. Using a DMM, measure the resistance from the heater wire to the case, should be something like 13 ohms. If you get a short (e.g. 1 ohm or less) or an open (infinity), the coil or the heater wire continuity is bad and the unit will require a more extensive rework. Dave Darling posted a procedure on this some time ago.

2. Verify that the valve is open. Blow through the port and make sure you get good flow. Use a light and look into the lower port, you can see the valve mechanism, it should be open, you should see an open slot. If you can't blow through the valve, and/or the port appears to be closed, the valve is jammed, skip to step 4.

3. If you get 13 ohms or so, test the heater and valve operation. Apply +12V to the heater wire with the case grounded. Your supply can be the car battery or a bench supply that can provide at least 2 A. Look into the lower port - you should see the slot slowly closing. After a few minutes, the case will be noticeably warm to the touch, that will tell you the heater is working. If the port completely closes after about 10 minutes, and you can't blow through the valve, then it's working correctly. Let it cool to verify it opens completely again. If the valve doesn't close, then it's jammed open, and you need to free it.

4. I suggest first using WD-40 to free the valve. Spray a copious amount of WD-40 into the lower port. If it's jammed closed, position the valve so that the WD-40 stays in the port, and let it sit for at least an hour. Pour it out, spray more, let sit. Pour it out, and test the valve with the +12V supply again? Working? Great! No? Get a can of PB Blaster, and do the same procedure again. Working? Great! No? Either try it again, or maybe, at this point, you can try vinegar, what do you have to lose?

FWIW, this worked on two jammed AAR's I have that are now in my spares box.