Engine...what have I got, newbie here with I hope a simple question Options

[seanpaulmc]

So, I've had this "affliction" for a while and I've succumbed. Bought myself a '73 2.0 supposedly. I'm looking the car over trying to get familiar with whatever it is in my driveway now and where to start on the repairs. I could use some help from the experts here.

I'm trying to figure out what the engine is but I cannot find any part number stampings, only what I believe to be case matching numbers. And, I haven't been underneath the car yet, still trying to work that one out. Here are some pictures of the engine bay. It has Webers but note the dipstick is short - seems the tube is reduced down to the case level.



















Thanks for your help.

[gcrotvik]

Could be a rebuild with a dealer purchased blank case. There are no serial number in either of the 2 places the serial number was stamped by the factory.

[barefoot]

photo seems to show top tins cut away around spark plug holes. youll loose lots of cooling air flow if thats true

[rhodyguy]

It appears, to me, you're missing the entire cooling vane assembly. It's controlled with an expanding thermostat which is located on the lower driver's side of the engine rear of the cooling fan housing. All of the tin holes should be filled. Plastic Spark plug wire clips, etc. note how the plug wires are laying on the carbs/intakes. Your air filters are filthy.

[Cairo94507]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png) Hey you got a car - a '73, terrific year, and possibly a 2.0, even better. You might try giving Porsche a call and asking them to verify your VIN and see if they can tell you the engine and transaxle numbers.

The biggest things on these cars is rust. Before you drop a lot of money into getting it running, I would assess the condition of the chassis as it relates to rust and damage (if any). Read the build threads and you will quickly learn the very common rust issues on these terrific cars. Once you know the extent of rust repair, I am sure there will be some, then you can decide on a plan of attack to correct that and make the chassis a solid platform to start with.

Then turn to getting it running correctly. Address the fuel system like if it has the original plastic fuel lines, get rid of those and replace with stainless steel, have the gas tank boiled out and coated, replace the fuel filters, look for and correct oil leaks, check the cooling system, do a basic tune-up, valve adjustment and establish a base line. Check out the electrical system to make sure everything works and all of the ground straps are clean and tight. No bare wires, wires just dangling in the engine compartment, under the dash, trunks, etc.

Then go over the brake system. New brake lines to the calipers, rebuild the calipers, flush the system, consider a new master cylinder, rotors and pads.

Tires - check the date codes. If old, even if the tread is still good, toss them and get new tires.

Lastly, look at cosmetics inside and out. Any rips in the seats? Get them covered. Any gauges or warning lights not functioning, get that addressed.

That is a general quick overview. These cars are a lot of fun. A few people have been overwhelmed with the work these cars can need because they underestimate the size of the job and tackle way to much at one time. Be methodical and work one project at a time.

Cheers and Best wishes.

[HAM Inc]

If it's a 2.0 engine the intake manifolds will be fitted to the heads via 3 mounting studs. If it has 4 studs, then the heads are not 2.0 914 heads, and the engine may or may not be either.

Given the interchangeability of T4 engine parts and the age of these cars the engine may be a mish-mash of parts. You may have to tear into it to know what you have.

[SirAndy]

It appears, to me, you're missing the entire cooling vane assembly.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

[seanpaulmc]

Thanks for the replies everyone. I've only driven the car to move it and take it to go get titled. However, who knows how much it was driven by PO getting it ready to sell and by others kicking the tires when it was up for sale. All that said, is it safe to drive without the cooling vane assembly?

I guess this is all part of the "fun" in the restoration process...finding out what's missing, broken, unusable and so forth. What's it gonna cost? Where can I get it? And, does the engine need to be dropped to add it and fix the tins since they were also pointed out to be out of sorts?

[iankarr]

Congrats on the car!

Def not advisable to drive without the cooling vane assembly. It consists of a metal flap on each side of a rod which spans both sides of the engine and is actuated by a spring and thermostat as Rhodyguy mentioned. Even with the flaps in the fully open position, the air is directed along a specific path to the oil cooler and cylinders. If your car is missing the flaps, air would just flow uncontrolled over the engine and not provide the proper cooling. Heat is the enemy!

Edit:

Here's a pic I grabbed from another post on the site (thanks McMark!) that shows how the flaps are oriented. Although the flap in the foreground looks to be allowing all air to pass over it, there's actually a curve on the back of the flap which channels and directs air over the oil cooler (under the flap in this pic).

Post a WTB in the classifieds. Members here are really helpful and fair.

Absolutely recommend dropping the engine as it will provide you way easier access to assess what's going on and to make repairs/adjustments. It's not hard to do and you'll be much happier for it.

[914 Ranch]

The picture above shows a 2 L head with 3 studs for the intake manifold.


My name Is Joe Sharp and I live just outside of DeLand.

[stugray]

The picture above shows a 2 L head with 3 studs for the intake manifold.


My name Is Joe Sharp and I live just outside of DeLand.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) And also based on the angle of the spark plugs.
If you look at plug #3 and think "That looks like a bitch to get that plug out" it is a 2.0L.
The 1.7 & 1.8 had the plugs pointing closer to straight up.

[ejm]

The engine could be from a '76 912E. They used the same 2 liter but the engine number was stamped on the fan housing. Use a mirror to look at the front of the housing. Also look to see if there is a fan behind the alternator pulley which is another 912E feature.

[mepstein]

I have the cooling vanes that I'll send you for the cost of shipping, no charge for the part. If your car is a 1.7, I have engine tin. I may have other parts as well. Let me know when you are ready and I'll send them down. Mark

[jtprettyman]

I have the cooling vanes that I'll send you for the cost of shipping, no charge for the part. If your car is a 1.7, I have engine tin. I may have other parts as well. Let me know when you are ready and I'll send them down. Mark

↑ And THIS is the reason I love this community.

[ndfrigi]

looks like a rebuilt engine and did use a non 914 case and fan shroud which does not show any 914 engine number on usual spot. 2.0 heads maybe if the intake has 3 hole for the bolt (like what others said above) and the engine tin could be from 1.7/1.8 that is why there is top hole for 1.7/1.8 spark plug or just holes from FI parts. For me there's nothing wrong using different parts as long the rebuilt was perfectly done and a good running engine.

[seanpaulmc]

Mepstein, thank you! I will indeed take you up on your offer. I will PM you my details. Generous and kindly appreciated.

So I didn't get the camera in there but by feeling around I find two bolts top side and one center bolt on bottom of the intake manifold leading me to believe it is a 2L. And I've confirmed it has the original fuel lines.

Will get a mirror and try to check the front of the fan housing.

Thanks for the advice everyone!

[Dave_Darling]

If the spark plugs do not come out though the engine tin on the flat horizontal part, but rather on the vertical side part (or on the bend from horizontal to vertical) you have the 2.0 heads.

--DD