 Alloy brake caliper question, Do I order "S" pads? Confused... |
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| RoadGlue |
 May 8 2005, 11:50 AM
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#1
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Sonoma County Gear Head  Group: Admin Posts: 2,033 Joined: 8-January 03 From: Santa Rosa, CA Member No.: 108 Region Association: Northern California 
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Please see the attached photo below - When ordering pads, I just want to make sure that I'm supposed to order pads for "'S' Caliper, 911 (1974-77), 911 Turbo (1976-77)" - Sounds right, right? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/blink.gif)
Pad recommendations for an aggressive driver/auto-x'er? Thanks! Attached image(s) 
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| Aaron Cox |
May 8 2005, 11:58 AM
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#2
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Professional Lawn Dart Group: Retired Admin Posts: 24,541 Joined: 1-February 03 From: OC Member No.: 219 Region Association: Southern California |
those appear to be s calipers......
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| Joe Bob |
May 8 2005, 12:01 PM
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#3
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Retired admin, banned a few times Group: Members Posts: 17,427 Joined: 24-December 02 From: Boulder CO Member No.: 5 Region Association: None |
I have been using Ferodo and Porterfields....GPR has good pricing.
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| Eric_Shea |
May 8 2005, 12:56 PM
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#4
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,274 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains  |
Yes. Order "S" specific pads for those. They are thicker. Ferodo if it's a "driver" as well.
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| RoadGlue |
May 8 2005, 12:58 PM
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#5
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Sonoma County Gear Head Group: Admin Posts: 2,033 Joined: 8-January 03 From: Santa Rosa, CA Member No.: 108 Region Association: Northern California
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Great! "S" pads it is then.
Thanks you! |
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| mightyohm |
May 8 2005, 01:23 PM
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#6
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Advanced Member Group: Benefactors Posts: 2,277 Joined: 16-January 03 From: Seattle, WA Member No.: 162 Region Association: Pacific Northwest  |
Randy, That caliper looks familiar. I just rebuilt mine. Both calipers were leaking. I put in a new ATE seal kit, new SS pistons, and new hard lines connecting the sides (had to cut one to get it off, they were stuck good). If you decide to take them apart and rebuild them (good idea) think about flipping them on the car - putting the left caliper on the right and vice versa. You have to reverse the positions of the hard lines to keep the bleeders on top. If you take them apart you will notice that they show asymetrical wear in the bores, and I have read it is a good idea to flip them to try and wear them evenly to prolong their life. I used PBR metal master pads. They work good.
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| RoadGlue |
May 8 2005, 01:27 PM
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#7
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Sonoma County Gear Head Group: Admin Posts: 2,033 Joined: 8-January 03 From: Santa Rosa, CA Member No.: 108 Region Association: Northern California
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Thanks for the advice. I'm going to run them as-is for the summer (unless they leak!), and will plan a full rebuild and side-swap come next winter. Where did you buy the rebuild kits and SS pistons from? Best, |
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| Eric_Shea |
May 8 2005, 05:56 PM
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#8
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,274 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
I use Stomski pistons. I can get them for you. I was going to chime in anyway... if you do tear them down, don't be suprised if the pistons are shot. They are plated and most of the one's I've seen rust where they sit on the seal. Example:
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| Eric_Shea |
May 8 2005, 05:58 PM
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#9
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,274 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
$198 for these...
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