The best location for an electric water pump SBC V8 conversion, The best location for an electric water pump SBC V8 conversion |
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The best location for an electric water pump SBC V8 conversion, The best location for an electric water pump SBC V8 conversion |
BRAVE_HELIOS |
Apr 22 2017, 10:06 AM
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#1
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"Knowledge speaks, wisdom listens" Group: Members Posts: 295 Joined: 25-September 06 From: The Land Of ID! Member No.: 6,920 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Hey all,
Inching closer to going electric on my V8 conversion car. Right now; going through the process of cleaning out radiator and water passages/block with ThermoCure, then Prestone citric acid flush. Assuming I get a really clean system but not fix the run hot situation; I will go electric. Where is the best place to mount the electric pump? It would seem that the easiest way to go in my case is with this: http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Pro.../50930/10002/-1 It a 50 GPM unit that should bolt right up to the Renegade remote water pump housing already in place in my car on the lower left hand side of the engine... that is assuming there is enough clearance between the water pump and the firewall. Would this work? I have heard stories going back and forth about mounting the pump by the radiator or by the engine. |
914GT |
May 5 2017, 09:17 AM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,100 Joined: 11-October 04 From: Tucson Member No.: 2,923 Region Association: Southwest Region |
That sound's like a good design especially when the cooling system is together in the same engine compartment. It may not be quite as effective when the radiator is separated from the engine by lines that are low in the cooling system. Also a small V6 is going to have lower cooling demands then a larger displacement V8. I would have to disagree about the 2-port tank not able to purge air. It does this quite effectively as long as it's the highest point in the system, but as with any of them there needs to be a petcock or other arrangement to eliminate trapped air in the radiator on a 914 conversion. Again I'm not saying the Passat tank will not work, or maybe has some advantages over the other tanks, but it's a variation on what is commonly used and it may be having something to do with the overheating problem.
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BRAVE_HELIOS |
May 5 2017, 10:42 AM
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#3
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"Knowledge speaks, wisdom listens" Group: Members Posts: 295 Joined: 25-September 06 From: The Land Of ID! Member No.: 6,920 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
That sound's like a good design especially when the cooling system is together in the same engine compartment. It may not be quite as effective when the radiator is separated from the engine by lines that are low in the cooling system. Also a small V6 is going to have lower cooling demands then a larger displacement V8. I would have to disagree about the 2-port tank not able to purge air. It does this quite effectively as long as it's the highest point in the system, but as with any of them there needs to be a petcock or other arrangement to eliminate trapped air in the radiator on a 914 conversion. Again I'm not saying the Passat tank will not work, or maybe has some advantages over the other tanks, but it's a variation on what is commonly used and it may be having something to do with the overheating problem. With the system I have now, the highest point is where coolant from the high pressure side (just downstream of T-stat) enters the expansion tank. This point (port) sits higher than the T-stat and higher than the top of the radiator. The only part of the system that might sit higher is the heater core. If this is indeed the case; what can I do to ensure the flow and the bleed process works correctly? |
Andyrew |
May 5 2017, 10:52 AM
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#4
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Spooling.... Please wait Group: Members Posts: 13,376 Joined: 20-January 03 From: Riverbank, Ca Member No.: 172 Region Association: Northern California |
That sound's like a good design especially when the cooling system is together in the same engine compartment. It may not be quite as effective when the radiator is separated from the engine by lines that are low in the cooling system. Also a small V6 is going to have lower cooling demands then a larger displacement V8. I would have to disagree about the 2-port tank not able to purge air. It does this quite effectively as long as it's the highest point in the system, but as with any of them there needs to be a petcock or other arrangement to eliminate trapped air in the radiator on a 914 conversion. Again I'm not saying the Passat tank will not work, or maybe has some advantages over the other tanks, but it's a variation on what is commonly used and it may be having something to do with the overheating problem. With the system I have now, the highest point is where coolant from the high pressure side (just downstream of T-stat) enters the expansion tank. This point (port) sits higher than the T-stat and higher than the top of the radiator. The only part of the system that might sit higher is the heater core. If this is indeed the case; what can I do to ensure the flow and the bleed process works correctly? You need to add some kind of T at your highest point in your engine bay and make that your new expansion tank high line. For the front end what I do is run a line off the radiator high point with about a foot of hose and hold it straight up. Once that line is pushing pure water I know the radiator is good. Same for your heater. You need to make a "T" for your heater at the high point, that way you can do the same there. Cap it off when its full. The system should work the air bubbles out of it naturally with a modern 3 hose expansion, but it could take some time. Thats why I force it out at the beginning. Makes things easy. |
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