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> engine build advice
JFG
post May 21 2017, 09:35 AM
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I have a stock w code 1700 engine to rebuild for my car.

I would like to run a twin 40 idf set up. There is no fuel injection set up to put on it and the car had all the guts ripped out before i bought it.

The engine is fairly tidy and compression is good.

I've learned that i need to to change the cam as the djet is unsuitable for carbs.

As my budget is low for the engine build i was going to hone the cylinders and fit new piston rings and keep the 1700 cc size.

What i need to know is what size cam should i fit (it's a street car only) and what other bits would be needed for this upgrade?
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Dave_Darling
post May 21 2017, 11:08 AM
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Changing the cam is not required. You're leaving performance on the table if you don't change it, but it is not required. If you're on a tight budget, and you don't have to mess with the bottom end of the motor (e.g., the bearings are OK and oil pressure is good and so on) then leave the cam and lifters as-is.

If you are going to split the case, then make sure you use a cam and lifters from the same manufacturer. The Web 86 grind is a popular cam that lets you rev some more but isn't completely crazy.

--DD
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914_teener
post May 21 2017, 12:35 PM
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IMHO:

Leave the bottom and as is. Find a set of 1.8 liter heads or flycut the 1.7 heads and put 96 barrels on for a 1911.

Find a 2.0 Djet set up and run it. Fun street set up.


My 02.
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r_towle
post May 21 2017, 09:37 PM
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if compression is good, and you intend to leave it with the same displacement, and you have a whole car to fix, do nothing but clean the motor without opening it up.

Replace the oil cooler seals, the push rod tube seals, the oil sump gaskets, and the thermostat on the top of the motor.

you want to replace those seals and thermostat to reduce any oil that will leak out.

Aside from that, bolt on the carbs and run it for now.
Spend the rest of your money on the car to make it safe and looking like you want.

Rich
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JFG
post May 24 2017, 06:13 AM
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I checked the cam throught cylinder & lifter holes. It is in really good condition with no wear or scoring. The lifters however are flat. Am i correct in thinking they should have a slight dome? The cam wears them flat?
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Optimusglen
post May 24 2017, 09:21 AM
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Mark Henry
post May 24 2017, 11:54 AM
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QUOTE(JFG @ May 24 2017, 08:13 AM) *

I checked the cam throught cylinder & lifter holes. It is in really good condition with no wear or scoring. The lifters however are flat. Am i correct in thinking they should have a slight dome? The cam wears them flat?

Yes the lifters are slightly convex new, take two lifters and place them face to face and hold them up to a light. If they have a bit of light around the edge then they are still good. Flat they really should be replaced, concave definitely should be replaced.
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mepstein
post May 24 2017, 01:15 PM
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QUOTE(r_towle @ May 21 2017, 11:37 PM) *

if compression is good, and you intend to leave it with the same displacement, and you have a whole car to fix, do nothing but clean the motor without opening it up.

Replace the oil cooler seals, the push rod tube seals, the oil sump gaskets, and the thermostat on the top of the motor.

you want to replace those seals and thermostat to reduce any oil that will leak out.

Aside from that, bolt on the carbs and run it for now.
Spend the rest of your money on the car to make it safe and looking like you want.

Rich

Good advise.
Then pick up a core engine and rebuild it while you have a running car.
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Dave_Darling
post May 25 2017, 02:39 PM
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If the lifters are flat, the cam is toast. Time to open up the bottom end.

--DD
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