Engine first start attempt., Couple vacuum leaks, Finally adustable idle. |
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Engine first start attempt., Couple vacuum leaks, Finally adustable idle. |
Olympic 914 |
May 23 2017, 07:30 AM
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#1
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Group: Members Posts: 1,671 Joined: 7-July 11 From: Pittsburgh PA Member No.: 13,287 Region Association: North East States |
Engine first start, Fail.
Yesterday I made the first attempt at starting the engine since rebuild. I had put two gallons of 93 octane gas into the tank and the pump runs as it should when turning the key. I had a timer ready to perform the 20 minute cam break in. I was arrogant enough to believe that the engine would simply start when I finally tried it. WRONG. It caught for a few moments then died. And subsequent attempts gave no better of a response. I had turned the engine over with the coil disconnected to build up oil pressure before attempting the start. And thought I may have run the battery down some. Checking it showed 12.56v resting and 11.44 while cranking. I connected a big boat battery with jumper cables but still no start. It turns over and fires a couple times giving of puffs of exhaust, but does not catch and keep running. Pulled a FI hose and checked that I am getting gas, also pulled two plugs and they are wet with gas. I thought I may have flooded it so I put the battery charger on it and put it back in the garage. This morning I tried it again and the result was the same. It fires a couple times then just cranks. Everything is new. Cap and rotor, points condenser plug wires etc. injectors rebuilt buy Witchhunters , static timed when I put in the distributor. All new vacuum hoses, rebuilt MPS (set to 037 specs) ECU is an unknown but it worked when ran last (in ’89) all the wiring was carefully checked when installed Engine build is as follows. EA 1.7 engine built into a 2056 Using the djet FI with 2.0 parts, intake runners, throttle body, air cleaner, etc. HAM heads ported to RS+ and modified for the 2.0 runners Raby 9590 cam Guess I will start with rechecking the timing and go from there. |
Olympic 914 |
May 23 2017, 10:29 AM
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#2
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Group: Members Posts: 1,671 Joined: 7-July 11 From: Pittsburgh PA Member No.: 13,287 Region Association: North East States |
Ok
Worked on it a little more. So first I set the engine to the O mark on the fan and checked the distributor to be sure I was on TDC on #1 Then I pulled the distributor to recheck the points and found I did NOT replace the condenser AND I had the old Rev-limiting rotor in there still. But the points were new. So I set the points again to 0.016 and reinstalled the distributor. And static timed it to the 5 degree mark . Then I found the wire for the temp sensor under the plenum was off. ( I probably knocked it off removing the distributor) Also the when reconnecting the green wire from the points to the coil I noticed it had a couple broken strands, So I clipped it off and installed a new end. Hooked all the wires and vacuum hoses back up, got in the car, Held my breath, and turned the key… ITS ALIVE !!!! Since I was in the shed with limited ventilation I ran it for about 30 seconds. I had turned in the idle screw on the throttle body, not knowing where it would end up and it settled down at about 2500 rpm. It sounded good. I shut it off because I wanted to move it outside to do the cam break in, When I move it outside I will adjust the RPMs down to about 2000 rpm for the cam break in. And maybe put a timing light on it to see where the timing really is. Also I ordered a new condenser and rev-limiting rotor from Pelican. So I will not get too anal about the timing until after I put those parts in. Thanks for your suggestions.. |
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