Engine first start attempt., Couple vacuum leaks, Finally adustable idle. |
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Engine first start attempt., Couple vacuum leaks, Finally adustable idle. |
Olympic 914 |
May 23 2017, 07:30 AM
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#1
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Group: Members Posts: 1,671 Joined: 7-July 11 From: Pittsburgh PA Member No.: 13,287 Region Association: North East States |
Engine first start, Fail.
Yesterday I made the first attempt at starting the engine since rebuild. I had put two gallons of 93 octane gas into the tank and the pump runs as it should when turning the key. I had a timer ready to perform the 20 minute cam break in. I was arrogant enough to believe that the engine would simply start when I finally tried it. WRONG. It caught for a few moments then died. And subsequent attempts gave no better of a response. I had turned the engine over with the coil disconnected to build up oil pressure before attempting the start. And thought I may have run the battery down some. Checking it showed 12.56v resting and 11.44 while cranking. I connected a big boat battery with jumper cables but still no start. It turns over and fires a couple times giving of puffs of exhaust, but does not catch and keep running. Pulled a FI hose and checked that I am getting gas, also pulled two plugs and they are wet with gas. I thought I may have flooded it so I put the battery charger on it and put it back in the garage. This morning I tried it again and the result was the same. It fires a couple times then just cranks. Everything is new. Cap and rotor, points condenser plug wires etc. injectors rebuilt buy Witchhunters , static timed when I put in the distributor. All new vacuum hoses, rebuilt MPS (set to 037 specs) ECU is an unknown but it worked when ran last (in ’89) all the wiring was carefully checked when installed Engine build is as follows. EA 1.7 engine built into a 2056 Using the djet FI with 2.0 parts, intake runners, throttle body, air cleaner, etc. HAM heads ported to RS+ and modified for the 2.0 runners Raby 9590 cam Guess I will start with rechecking the timing and go from there. |
VaccaRabite |
May 26 2017, 06:43 AM
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#2
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En Garde! Group: Admin Posts: 13,445 Joined: 15-December 03 From: Dallastown, PA Member No.: 1,435 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Do the Cam break in before you run the engine too much more. You want the engine turning about 2.5 - 3K for that anyway (IIRC).
Jake used to say to the do that cam break in the first time you got the engine to fire. As soon as you got it running just break in the cam then and there. Zach |
Olympic 914 |
May 26 2017, 08:07 AM
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#3
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Group: Members Posts: 1,671 Joined: 7-July 11 From: Pittsburgh PA Member No.: 13,287 Region Association: North East States |
Do the Cam break in before you run the engine too much more. You want the engine turning about 2.5 - 3K for that anyway (IIRC). Jake used to say to the do that cam break in the first time you got the engine to fire. As soon as you got it running just break in the cam then and there. Zach That was my original plan. but with the RPMs being uncontrollable and not knowing whether it was running too lean or what, I didn't want to melt the heads or seize the KB pistons. As it was the paint was cooking off of the Triad muffler. The rpm I remember seeing was 2000 rpm for the cam break-in, and I couldn't get the engine down to that number. I don't have a head temp gauge right now nor do I have a AFR. gauge. Jake has a shop full of gauges and tools and would be better able to tell if something bad was happening and shut it off before it destructed the engine. If the engine had only required a few adjustments I would have continued with the cam break-in. I do have a Autometer wideband AFR coming in the mail in a day or two. (maybe today!) and also a Dakota digital head temp gauge, probably in a week or so. once these are installed and I can see what is really happening I will complete the cam break-in. Its not like I will be sitting around twiddling my thumbs as I wait on parts. I just got the new condenser and rev-limiting rotor yesterday and will be again pulling the distributor to install these, check for free movement of the advance plates and do a static set on the timing. Thanks for all your suggestions, |
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