Engine first start attempt., Couple vacuum leaks, Finally adustable idle. |
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Engine first start attempt., Couple vacuum leaks, Finally adustable idle. |
Olympic 914 |
May 23 2017, 07:30 AM
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#1
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Group: Members Posts: 1,668 Joined: 7-July 11 From: Pittsburgh PA Member No.: 13,287 Region Association: North East States |
Engine first start, Fail.
Yesterday I made the first attempt at starting the engine since rebuild. I had put two gallons of 93 octane gas into the tank and the pump runs as it should when turning the key. I had a timer ready to perform the 20 minute cam break in. I was arrogant enough to believe that the engine would simply start when I finally tried it. WRONG. It caught for a few moments then died. And subsequent attempts gave no better of a response. I had turned the engine over with the coil disconnected to build up oil pressure before attempting the start. And thought I may have run the battery down some. Checking it showed 12.56v resting and 11.44 while cranking. I connected a big boat battery with jumper cables but still no start. It turns over and fires a couple times giving of puffs of exhaust, but does not catch and keep running. Pulled a FI hose and checked that I am getting gas, also pulled two plugs and they are wet with gas. I thought I may have flooded it so I put the battery charger on it and put it back in the garage. This morning I tried it again and the result was the same. It fires a couple times then just cranks. Everything is new. Cap and rotor, points condenser plug wires etc. injectors rebuilt buy Witchhunters , static timed when I put in the distributor. All new vacuum hoses, rebuilt MPS (set to 037 specs) ECU is an unknown but it worked when ran last (in ’89) all the wiring was carefully checked when installed Engine build is as follows. EA 1.7 engine built into a 2056 Using the djet FI with 2.0 parts, intake runners, throttle body, air cleaner, etc. HAM heads ported to RS+ and modified for the 2.0 runners Raby 9590 cam Guess I will start with rechecking the timing and go from there. |
VaccaRabite |
Jun 13 2017, 11:17 AM
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#2
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En Garde! Group: Admin Posts: 13,444 Joined: 15-December 03 From: Dallastown, PA Member No.: 1,435 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
you can't do it now with a busted fuel pump... After you found the leak in the plenum, did you try covering the throttle body with your hand again? Did that have any effect?
You found a leak on at least one intake runner, and at the throttle body. Both of those make sense, and are easy to fix. For the throttle body make sure the mating surfaces are CLEAN. You can use a very thin smear of RTV or anaerobic gasket sealer on that seal. Key here is thin. Like the kind of thin that covers the part, but only just covers the part, and does not squish out boogers when you tighten it down. Same with the intake runners, though I suspect a bent runner or plenum pipe is to blame there. Also, I bet CASH MONEY that you throttle cable is wrapped around your clutch cable, and when you press in the clutch you are also opening your throttle a little. Very common. Zach |
Olympic 914 |
Jun 13 2017, 01:13 PM
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#3
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Group: Members Posts: 1,668 Joined: 7-July 11 From: Pittsburgh PA Member No.: 13,287 Region Association: North East States |
On the cable issue, normally I would have taken that bet and been counting my money ahead of time, But I thought I better check it anyways.
Well I know the cables were run correctly as I had checked them with a mirror, But when I removed the throttle body and there was slack in the cable the throttle cable fouled on the clutch clevis. So you win this one. One down. Next the fuel pump. I cut the wires in the cabin going to the fuel pump and installed spade connectors then I was able to power the fuel pump separately and happily it did run. both of the wires going back into the harness are shorted or grounded. one IS the ground and the other is the power to the fuel pump. So my ground is good. Also tried starting it with the fuel pump jumpered it would not start. Checked the CHT and it showed 1260 ohms at the 90 degrees in the shed plus the 270 ohms of the resistor I had installed for a total of 1530 ohms. I don't know what the head temp is though because of the outside temp and the fact that it had just run. Power to the coil with key on. you can't do it now with a busted fuel pump... Also, I bet CASH MONEY that you throttle cable is wrapped around your clutch cable, and when you press in the clutch you are also opening your throttle a little. Very common. Zach |
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