Looking at my first 914 Options

[nditiz1]

So now that I have some capital to spend, I can finally start the serious hunt for "my" 914. A seller around me has a stock 75 that hasn't been driven in 20 years. Looking for some advice on trying to start it up or any other words of advice. If the seller is ok I'd like to bring a battery and some fresh fuel and try to start it. The car was driven in the passed, but has been sitting under a cover for the last 20. Pictures show virtually no rust except maybe some surface in the hell hole. It is a 1.8 and the FI has not been touched. Second owner, purchased in 1975 with under 3,000 miles, shows 104,000 now. Thoughts?

Hey I just want to thank everyone on here for the wisdom filled words of advice. So I went to go look at a 73 today and was caught up in so much of the hype and it being a "914S" numbers matching that I almost made a mistake. I then realized what everyone was talking about. If it doesn't feel right it probably isn't. Needless to say I went over the car with a fine tooth comb in some parts, but glossed over some others. They main thing everyone was telling me was RUST. This car had it and none was preventing the car from running and driving, but it was enough to make me double think the purchase. I mean, I can't ask for perfect with the budget I have, but I have seen ChrisB's sweet orange 71 and I saw no rust, granted it was restored within the last 10 years and never saw a rain drop and kept in the garage since then. This one had been restored some time ago and I could see rust under patches and seams. I took it for a drive and it rode nice, motor was in order - Fresh 44 IDF Webers installed. I still couldn't get over the pin hole rust spots (2) in the floor pans and the surface rust - that could be worse - hiding behind the rocker panels. Also, something the PO messaged me about was a little bothersome in regards to the right front fender needing to be replaced. As hard as it was to walk away it was the right move and the journey continues.

[arne]

Don't try to start it without any prep like that. First, even if it is essentially sound, you will likely fail due to other bits. An example is corroded points.

Other reasons - potential fuel leaks due to sitting that long are a fire hazard. The old gas that was in the tank when it was parked will likely be mostly thick sludge by now. No telling what the oil is like after sitting that long, etc., etc., ....

If you like the car, check everything else on it carefully, and negotiate with the seller as if it was going to need a complete rebuild. Chances are that it will not, but it will require some prep and expense prior to attempting to start it up.

Example - the car I bought a couple of months ago had been sitting for at least 8 years. I started by pulling the plugs to put some oil in the cylinders, then drained the sump and put in fresh oil. With the plugs still removed and the fuel pump relay pulled, I spun the no-load engine with the starter to confirm oil pressure. I then found the fuel lines bad, and the fuel pump was leaking, so a complete fuel system rebuild was in order. After doing all that, I finally tried to start it. And failed, due to bad points. Fresh points and a new set of plug wires finally got it running well.

That was a typical engine revival for a car that has been sitting for a long time.

[nditiz1]

Don't try to start it without ....

Thanks for the info arne!

[iwanta914-6]

Would it be this one that you are looking at?

https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/cto/6149743832.html

[BeatNavy]

That one has been on CL for a good while now. He may not be too motivated to sell, but who knows? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Arne is right. If you do buy it, plan on trailering it home and spending some time going through everything. 40+ year old fuel, ignition, electric and FI components are extremely unlikely to start up and are probably just as likely to go up in smoke.

[Spoke]

Looking for some advice

Unless you are very familiar with the 914, take someone who is knowledgeable with you.

Brakes, wheels, tires, fuel tank, seats, paint, even engine can be fixed. If the body is rusty you'll be in for a long repair.

Your main interest at this point is rust. When you're done looking at rust, look for more rust.

If the car is the one listed above, I'd be real careful with rust in the longitudinals.

On the other hand, you would get:

+ 5 large boxes of impossible-to-find parts
+ Leather-covered steering wheel (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif)

BTW, what is that switch to the right of the headlight switch?

[Robnxious]

Looking for some advice

Unless you are very familiar with the 914, take someone who is knowledgeable with you.

Brakes, wheels, tires, fuel tank, seats, paint, even engine can be fixed. If the body is rusty you'll be in for a long repair.

Your main interest at this point is rust. When you're done looking at rust, look for more rust.

If the car is the one listed above, I'd be real careful with rust in the longitudinals.

On the other hand, you would get:

+ 5 large boxes of impossible-to-find parts
+ Leather-covered steering wheel (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif)

BTW, what is that switch to the right of the headlight switch?

Don't forget, it's painted in the original "Landau Blue"!! and you get a Tach with it too

[Chris H.]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) Does he mean it has a Landau top?

Found this helpful internet image...

[rhodyguy]

Note the visible rust at the jack tube. Possible surprizes behind the rockers. Nice garbage pile IN the car. I just don't get it. The OSB radio mount plate is pretty cool.

How much do you have to spend other than the asking price?

[arne]

How much do you have to spend other than the asking price?

I can answer that, as I'm going through the process now. Assuming that there is no rust and the paint is acceptable (a BIG stretch), budget $900 to $1200 for the brakes, $400-700 for tires, $700-900 for fuel system, $300-500 for misc. engine stuff (tune up bits, oil seals, gaskets, vacuum lines) and $200 for an AGM battery. All prices are assuming you are capable of doing the work yourself. If you need to have a shop do it, you should probably double the amounts.

If there is nothing serious wrong with those systems, the above budget MIGHT make it into a driver. Maybe.

[nditiz1]

You guys are hilarious (no sarcasm). That is the one I am looking at. Yeah the guy is a pretty abnormal dude. We have chatted via text and he won't be back for another 2 weeks, so I can't look at it until then. I have roughly 10k to spend. ChristopherB has a really sweet 2.0 in Towson, MD that I would love to get, but he won't take a 5k hit to sell it as someone would easily pay his asking of 15k. I probably won't get the one in DC as he seemed very firm on his price and while it is OG (mostly) it seems like it would be a lot of money to work out possible issues. There is another local 1970 silver with a 1.7. It was reduced to 9500 and then I saw a few days later the reduced price was 10500. The FI has been taken off. This really bothers me. Maybe I'm just not that knowledgeable about the 914, but Pelican making the statement that it is easier to fix the FI then put a single/dual carb really made sense. What do you all think of this one?

https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/doc/cto/6137496058.html

Where is the hood emblem, and why does it have lattice in the trunk??? Am I wrong in thinking some of these should not be priced as high as they are?

[carking1996]

You guys are hilarious (no sarcasm). That is the one I am looking at. Yeah the guy is a pretty abnormal dude. We have chatted via text and he won't be back for another 2 weeks, so I can't look at it until then. I have roughly 10k to spend. ChristopherB has a really sweet 2.0 in Towson, MD that I would love to get, but he won't take a 5k hit to sell it as someone would easily pay his asking of 15k. I probably won't get the one in DC as he seemed very firm on his price and while it is OG (mostly) it seems like it would be a lot of money to work out possible issues. There is another local 1970 silver with a 1.7. It was reduced to 9500 and then I saw a few days later the reduced price was 10500. The FI has been taken off. This really bothers me. Maybe I'm just not that knowledgeable about the 914, but Pelican making the statement that it is easier to fix the FI then put a single/dual carb really made sense. What do you all think of this one?

https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/doc/cto/6137496058.html

Where is the hood emblem, and why does it have lattice in the trunk??? Am I wrong in thinking some of these should not be priced as high as they are?

914s didn't come with a hood emblem from the factory. I'm unsure why there's lattice in the trunk, though rust usually on these in that area appears near the edge at the bottom there.

[arne]

Edit - carking1996 types faster than I do.

Hood emblems were never original, all were added later. Some by selling dealers, some by owners. But never by the factory.

No clue about the lattice.

[nditiz1]

Thoughts on this:

https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/6118591146.html

Thanks for all the expert advice!

[iwanta914-6]

Thoughts on this:

Http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/6118591146.html

Thanks for all the expert advice!

That's quite a bit above your $10K budget. I want to say I've seen that car before around here or on facebook. Anyway, that car presents very well, especially if the Fuchs wheels are real. Certainly worth a look. Wierd that it doesn't even at least have a drivers side mirror...

While it's above your $10K, it is always money well spent to pay extra on a car this is already sorted than to resurrect something that hasn't run for 20 years.

But I still have yet to pull the trigger on one myself for many reasons. It's become a bit of a joke around here. All I can suggest is be patient and you'll find something, don't just jump on the first one you look at unless it's perfect and within your price range.

[Robnxious]

I would look at sites like Classic Auto Trader and non Craigslist sites. I was able to find mine on Classic Auto Trader under the standard listings and scored like a bandit (74 1.8 w/ 75K on it). Be patient and be prepared to jump when the right one comes your way. While it is a TON of fun to work on them, as has been said here many times, buy the best care that you can afford.

There are still deals out there. Just be patient, it will be worth it in the end

[iwanta914-6]

I would look at sites like Classic Auto Trader and non Craigslist sites. I was able to find mine on Classic Auto Trader under the standard listings and scored like a bandit (74 1.8 w/ 75K on it). Be patient and be prepared to jump when the right one comes your way. While it is a TON of fun to work on them, as has been said here many times, buy the best care that you can afford.

There are still deals out there. Just be patient, it will be worth it in the end

Cargurus, thesamba, pelican, and many other sites as well.

[Chris H.]

Take a close look at the front trunk pic on the silver car. Unless I'm seeing things there are a lot of wrinkles up there. That means it's been hit pretty hard and repaired. Run away if so.



Best bet is to wait for PMs from this thread or post a WTB in the classifieds. I'd rather pay a little more and buy one from a trusted person here. You really end up saving money in the end. How about Craig at Camp914? He always has a few.

[914_7T3]

How much do you have to spend other than the asking price?

I can answer that, as I'm going through the process now. Assuming that there is no rust and the paint is acceptable (a BIG stretch), budget $900 to $1200 for the brakes, $400-700 for tires, $700-900 for fuel system, $300-500 for misc. engine stuff (tune up bits, oil seals, gaskets, vacuum lines) and $200 for an AGM battery. All prices are assuming you are capable of doing the work yourself. If you need to have a shop do it, you should probably double the amounts.

If there is nothing serious wrong with those systems, the above budget MIGHT make it into a driver. Maybe.

The '73 that I recently purchased was already in very good driving condition. The suspension, brakes, FI, fuel pump and lines required zero maintenance.

Arne is spot on for the parts, however my specialty Porsche shop charges $135.00/Hr in labor and it adds up fast. My car had a major service including fluids, valve adjust, plugs, points, air filter, gaskets etc...

Also did shift bushings, repaired a transmission seal, replaced a wheel bearing and 3 hours labor to chase down some misc electrical issues. Total repair bill was $2k, but only $300 worth of parts so hopefully you can do the work yourself.

Count on that you will find more things to repair/replace as you get deeper into it. That is just how it goes on these cars, especially if it has been sitting.

Good luck in your search and if you would like for me to keep an eye out for a car for you here in LA, I would be happy to do so. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

[euro911]

Take a close look at the front trunk pic on the silver car. Unless I'm seeing things there are a lot of wrinkles up there. That means it's been hit pretty hard and repaired. Run away if so.



Best bet is to wait for PMs from this thread or post a WTB in the classifieds. I'd rather pay a little more and buy one from a trusted person here. You really end up saving money in the end. How about Craig at Camp914? He always has a few.

The top front right corner of the fuel tank has a big dent in it too (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) ... I agree with Chris - I think it's been hit.