So now that I have some capital to spend, I can finally start the serious hunt for "my" 914. A seller around me has a stock 75 that hasn't been driven in 20 years. Looking for some advice on trying to start it up or any other words of advice. If the seller is ok I'd like to bring a battery and some fresh fuel and try to start it. The car was driven in the passed, but has been sitting under a cover for the last 20. Pictures show virtually no rust except maybe some surface in the hell hole. It is a 1.8 and the FI has not been touched. Second owner, purchased in 1975 with under 3,000 miles, shows 104,000 now. Thoughts?

Hey I just want to thank everyone on here for the wisdom filled words of advice. So I went to go look at a 73 today and was caught up in so much of the hype and it being a "914S" numbers matching that I almost made a mistake. I then realized what everyone was talking about. If it doesn't feel right it probably isn't. Needless to say I went over the car with a fine tooth comb in some parts, but glossed over some others. They main thing everyone was telling me was RUST. This car had it and none was preventing the car from running and driving, but it was enough to make me double think the purchase. I mean, I can't ask for perfect with the budget I have, but I have seen ChrisB's sweet orange 71 and I saw no rust, granted it was restored within the last 10 years and never saw a rain drop and kept in the garage since then. This one had been restored some time ago and I could see rust under patches and seams. I took it for a drive and it rode nice, motor was in order - Fresh 44 IDF Webers installed. I still couldn't get over the pin hole rust spots (2) in the floor pans and the surface rust - that could be worse - hiding behind the rocker panels. Also, something the PO messaged me about was a little bothersome in regards to the right front fender needing to be replaced. As hard as it was to walk away it was the right move and the journey continues.

Don't try to start it without any prep like that. First, even if it is essentially sound, you will likely fail due to other bits. An example is corroded points.

Other reasons - potential fuel leaks due to sitting that long are a fire hazard. The old gas that was in the tank when it was parked will likely be mostly thick sludge by now. No telling what the oil is like after sitting that long, etc., etc., ....

If you like the car, check everything else on it carefully, and negotiate with the seller as if it was going to need a complete rebuild. Chances are that it will not, but it will require some prep and expense prior to attempting to start it up.

Example - the car I bought a couple of months ago had been sitting for at least 8 years. I started by pulling the plugs to put some oil in the cylinders, then drained the sump and put in fresh oil. With the plugs still removed and the fuel pump relay pulled, I spun the no-load engine with the starter to confirm oil pressure. I then found the fuel lines bad, and the fuel pump was leaking, so a complete fuel system rebuild was in order. After doing all that, I finally tried to start it. And failed, due to bad points. Fresh points and a new set of plug wires finally got it running well.

That was a typical engine revival for a car that has been sitting for a long time.

Thanks for the info arne!

Would it be this one that you are looking at?

https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/cto/6149743832.html

That one has been on CL for a good while now. He may not be too motivated to sell, but who knows?

Arne is right. If you do buy it, plan on trailering it home and spending some time going through everything. 40+ year old fuel, ignition, electric and FI components are extremely unlikely to start up and are probably just as likely to go up in smoke.

Unless you are very familiar with the 914, take someone who is knowledgeable with you.

Brakes, wheels, tires, fuel tank, seats, paint, even engine can be fixed. If the body is rusty you'll be in for a long repair.

Your main interest at this point is rust. When you're done looking at rust, look for more rust.

If the car is the one listed above, I'd be real careful with rust in the longitudinals.

On the other hand, you would get:

+ 5 large boxes of impossible-to-find parts
+ Leather-covered steering wheel

BTW, what is that switch to the right of the headlight switch?

Don't forget, it's painted in the original "Landau Blue"!! and you get a Tach with it too

Does he mean it has a Landau top?

Found this helpful internet image...

Click to view attachment

Note the visible rust at the jack tube. Possible surprizes behind the rockers. Nice garbage pile IN the car. I just don't get it. The OSB radio mount plate is pretty cool.

How much do you have to spend other than the asking price?

I can answer that, as I'm going through the process now. Assuming that there is no rust and the paint is acceptable (a BIG stretch), budget $900 to $1200 for the brakes, $400-700 for tires, $700-900 for fuel system, $300-500 for misc. engine stuff (tune up bits, oil seals, gaskets, vacuum lines) and $200 for an AGM battery. All prices are assuming you are capable of doing the work yourself. If you need to have a shop do it, you should probably double the amounts.

If there is nothing serious wrong with those systems, the above budget MIGHT make it into a driver. Maybe.

You guys are hilarious (no sarcasm). That is the one I am looking at. Yeah the guy is a pretty abnormal dude. We have chatted via text and he won't be back for another 2 weeks, so I can't look at it until then. I have roughly 10k to spend. ChristopherB has a really sweet 2.0 in Towson, MD that I would love to get, but he won't take a 5k hit to sell it as someone would easily pay his asking of 15k. I probably won't get the one in DC as he seemed very firm on his price and while it is OG (mostly) it seems like it would be a lot of money to work out possible issues. There is another local 1970 silver with a 1.7. It was reduced to 9500 and then I saw a few days later the reduced price was 10500. The FI has been taken off. This really bothers me. Maybe I'm just not that knowledgeable about the 914, but Pelican making the statement that it is easier to fix the FI then put a single/dual carb really made sense. What do you all think of this one?

https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/doc/cto/6137496058.html

Where is the hood emblem, and why does it have lattice in the trunk??? Am I wrong in thinking some of these should not be priced as high as they are?

914s didn't come with a hood emblem from the factory. I'm unsure why there's lattice in the trunk, though rust usually on these in that area appears near the edge at the bottom there.

Edit - carking1996 types faster than I do.

Hood emblems were never original, all were added later. Some by selling dealers, some by owners. But never by the factory.

No clue about the lattice.

Thoughts on this:

https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/6118591146.html

Thanks for all the expert advice!

That's quite a bit above your $10K budget. I want to say I've seen that car before around here or on facebook. Anyway, that car presents very well, especially if the Fuchs wheels are real. Certainly worth a look. Wierd that it doesn't even at least have a drivers side mirror...

While it's above your $10K, it is always money well spent to pay extra on a car this is already sorted than to resurrect something that hasn't run for 20 years.

But I still have yet to pull the trigger on one myself for many reasons. It's become a bit of a joke around here. All I can suggest is be patient and you'll find something, don't just jump on the first one you look at unless it's perfect and within your price range.

I would look at sites like Classic Auto Trader and non Craigslist sites. I was able to find mine on Classic Auto Trader under the standard listings and scored like a bandit (74 1.8 w/ 75K on it). Be patient and be prepared to jump when the right one comes your way. While it is a TON of fun to work on them, as has been said here many times, buy the best care that you can afford.

There are still deals out there. Just be patient, it will be worth it in the end

Cargurus, thesamba, pelican, and many other sites as well.

Take a close look at the front trunk pic on the silver car. Unless I'm seeing things there are a lot of wrinkles up there. That means it's been hit pretty hard and repaired. Run away if so.

Click to view attachment

Best bet is to wait for PMs from this thread or post a WTB in the classifieds. I'd rather pay a little more and buy one from a trusted person here. You really end up saving money in the end. How about Craig at Camp914? He always has a few.

The '73 that I recently purchased was already in very good driving condition. The suspension, brakes, FI, fuel pump and lines required zero maintenance.

Arne is spot on for the parts, however my specialty Porsche shop charges $135.00/Hr in labor and it adds up fast. My car had a major service including fluids, valve adjust, plugs, points, air filter, gaskets etc...

Also did shift bushings, repaired a transmission seal, replaced a wheel bearing and 3 hours labor to chase down some misc electrical issues. Total repair bill was $2k, but only $300 worth of parts so hopefully you can do the work yourself.

Count on that you will find more things to repair/replace as you get deeper into it. That is just how it goes on these cars, especially if it has been sitting.

Good luck in your search and if you would like for me to keep an eye out for a car for you here in LA, I would be happy to do so.

The top front right corner of the fuel tank has a big dent in it too ... I agree with Chris - I think it's been hit.

I like everything you all are saying. What an awesome group to be in.

100% not going for that 70. Most likely not going for the 75. The 74 2.0 in PA will be standby. I don't have the funds unless of course I barrow a thousand from the wife and the seller comes down to 11k. The seller is also out for 3 weeks.

As far as other 914s PLEASE let me know. I don't mind flying from MD to LA to drive home my 914. Or if anyone has a line on another.

As far as wrench turning I've done my fair share on my 60 beetle. The parts still won't be cheap as I've seen.

I love how you all just look at a picture and know 1000 things wrong with the car.

a 10k buy budget, that aint the car. you want the best car with least amount of work. 10k should buy a very nice, NO RUST, running driving car. maybe tired cosmetics and tuning but not not major surgery.
fwiw

I saw this on facebook this morning. Not perfect by any means but flares and fuchs. $14,500 CAD ends up around $11K.
Click to view attachment

I'd say $7500 is way too much for that car. Any car sitting for 20 years is full of unknowns, with lots of possible downsides. Being a Porsche, lots of parts cost too much, are hard to find and even with the internet, slow to acquire. If you are an experienced rebuilder, have plenty of time and can do most of the work yourself, that's great; if not, buy one finished and take an experienced 914 guy/gal with you when you look at a prospect. I bought a disassembled abandoned project late in 2015, that already had the body/paint work completed, for $3000, with a complete parts car to boot. I, too, had a $10K budget, but I added a 50% fudge factor......and spent it. I had a professional rebuild the engine, install it and do start up, the rest of the restoration I did myself. "Every thing" was sorted as I reassembled it - - - the list is too long to mention - - - now it is a very nice "fully" restored driver. That should give you a ballpark estimate and idea of what it could cost to bring one of these things back to life after many years parked.

Check this one out for $8k!


https://billings.craigslist.org/cto/6149252928.html

@srreality - Thanks for the info. Everyone is pretty much saying the same thing, spend upwards of my max budget for one that is sorted, at least in the way of rust. While I have never worked on a 914, I have had my hands in several beetles. This forum is great for information as well. Everyone's advice is great.

I'm not even going to look at the 75 as I don't have tons of time to work on any 914 I get my hands on with a 1 and 3 year old. So a driver with some minor flaws (no rust) is what I'm looking for.

@Calvinator - This one might be a consideration. While I don't like the lincoln paint job or the riviera wheels those are things that can be changed over time. Too bad it is not a 2.0, I'd be heading out to Montana tomorrow lol.

For all others keep them coming. I even contacted the one in British Columbia, but they haven't gotten back to me yet.

The only 2.0 that you are going to find for that $ is going to need a paint job & some interior work and potentially thousands worth of mechanical fixes. This was the experience with my '73 2.0. Seller was asking $12k and I bought the car for $8.5K after a PPI from a local shop as I was approx. 350 miles away. Its a great driver, (5-10 footer) but will need full paint at some point in the future

The point being, you need to be prepared to travel with cash in hand to get the right car once it has been put up on a lift and thoroughly checked.

More often than not, a seller will be more motivated if you are serious and ready to complete the sale on the spot.

Hope this helps.

Ok, what's the deal here?

http://www.highlineautosales.com/vehicle-d...-il-id-18200818

Called them and it is a 2.0

Anyone live around Illinois for a PPI? I have money for beer

Note the lack of jack posts on the red car. Note the Lack of holes for the jack posts in the rockers as well. I find that suspect. 3 vague pictures don't tell much.

@rhodyguy I looked up the history. It has a long history of being green. It actually started it's life as 2 cars halves combined into one. I'm going to pass on this as well.

That yellow 73 though. Need to find someone close to the dealership in IL.

A sectioned car? Funny how that failed to get mentioned in the ad. That turd has been well shined. Good detective work!

Kevin

Don't drive yourself nuts looking. Figure out what the worse condition you are willing to accept is, and start reading the how-to articles here and on pelican. You're in a good area for supply so relax and shop around. The 75 in Silver Spring is too high and might be hiding some nasty surprises. Best case scenario is an engine drop and redone interior. There is nonsuch thing as "minor" or "surface" rust.

Could that be the fog light switch with a hillbilly fix? I can't tell if the car has them from the pic though. I agree on the rust, the jack point is a bit scary. 5k seems a better price.

Also, does it have a clear title? The front clip would have a different VIN than the rear section. A lot of questions there

Updated the first post with a thank you message.