Sail panel vinyl |
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Sail panel vinyl |
J123young |
Jul 24 2017, 08:03 PM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 50 Joined: 1-February 17 From: Fenton, MO. Member No.: 20,801 Region Association: None |
My 914 has painted sail panels and I would like to install the vinyl. Need some advice on where to purchase. I found it on a few websites but don't want some cheap stuff. Also anyone recommend a adhesive?
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ConeDodger |
Jul 24 2017, 08:10 PM
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#2
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Apex killer! Group: Members Posts: 23,578 Joined: 31-December 04 From: Tahoe Area Member No.: 3,380 Region Association: Northern California |
3m spray on adhesive. 914Rubber
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JawjaPorsche |
Jul 25 2017, 02:14 AM
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#3
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,463 Joined: 23-July 11 From: Clayton, Georgia Member No.: 13,351 Region Association: South East States |
If teener did not come with chrome trim piece, you will need to get it to trim the bottom of the sail.
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J123young |
Jul 25 2017, 04:26 AM
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#4
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Member Group: Members Posts: 50 Joined: 1-February 17 From: Fenton, MO. Member No.: 20,801 Region Association: None |
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ConeDodger |
Jul 25 2017, 09:56 AM
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#5
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Apex killer! Group: Members Posts: 23,578 Joined: 31-December 04 From: Tahoe Area Member No.: 3,380 Region Association: Northern California |
If teener did not come with chrome trim piece, you will need to get it to trim the bottom of the sail. It has the trim. So I'm good there. Looks like when it was repainted they didn't put the vinyl on. I think one of the biggest mistakes is not letting the adhesive flash off well enough. Another is to use an adhesive that isn't high enough temperature rated. (It gets hot up there in direct sun) I assume you know about the Lapuwali Classic Threads? Eric_Shea did an excellent write up showing how to put the vinyl on. Includes all the tools and materials needed. |
arne |
Jul 25 2017, 10:13 AM
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#6
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Serial Rescuer of old vehicles... Group: Members Posts: 737 Joined: 31-January 17 From: Eugene, Oregon Member No.: 20,799 Region Association: None |
I will be doing this on mine shortly after the car comes back from paint.
Years ago, Enrique (RIP) and I used either 3M 76 or 77 on my 240Z headliner, which also bakes in the sun. (I have partial cans of both on the shelf, I think we used 77 for this.) It worked great for the years I had it. I've also seen recommendations for 3M 90 as a good choice for the sail vinyl. |
Garland |
Jul 25 2017, 10:16 AM
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#7
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Restoration Fanatic Group: Members Posts: 1,328 Joined: 8-January 04 From: ......Michigan...... Member No.: 1,535 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
77 works well, mine are still on years..later.
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Tom_T |
Jul 25 2017, 10:24 AM
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#8
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TMI.... Group: Members Posts: 8,318 Joined: 19-March 09 From: Orange, CA Member No.: 10,181 Region Association: Southern California |
Don't assume Rob, a lot of folks just don't know the full reach of the great "Help/How To" threads on here.
J123 - if you're looking for the exact vinyl for strict originality/Concours - then get the Porsche kit. Otherwise, 914Rubber, Sierra Madre, Stoddard's, Auto Atlanta & a few others sell decent vinyl which is close, but not the exact "pepple" texture. As Rob said - follow the cleaning, prep & application procedures religiously for the 3M Hi-Temp version of the adhesive to both surfaces, but there is also a Wurth adhesive also worth looking at. It seems like recently there are more reports coming in of sail vinyl failures/peeling/bubbling/delaminating - so I think that there may be some issues with changed formulas for environmental reasons which could be making them less reliable. I had a similar problem now in 2017, with delaminating/peeling/curling of INTERIOR vinyl using 3M Hi-Temp applied in 2014 using proper procedures on my `88 Westy - after just 3 years. I know my process & it still peeled, while it took the original factory application 20+ years to start peeling. So something is amiss! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) I only add this warning - not to discourage you - but to say to say that even if you follow the procedures, then you may still have issues in a few years. Keeping the car covered or using one of Perry Kiehl's (member) top area umbrella covers will help keep direct sun heat off of the roll bar vinyl - possibly helping out some with longevity of the application. PS - re: arne & Garland's comments above - the secret may be "years ago" before a possible formula change, since I have spots in my Westy where I used 77 & 90 maybe 10+ years ago & those have not yet failed. Eventually anything will dry out & come loose, like the factory stuff is doing after about 20 years on my Westy. Cheers! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Tom /////// |
Mikey914 |
Jul 25 2017, 10:53 AM
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#9
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The rubber man Group: Members Posts: 12,657 Joined: 27-December 04 From: Hillsboro, OR Member No.: 3,348 Region Association: None |
The keys are -
1- to make sure you know exactly where the piece will go. If you are too far forward it will not cover the area on the back. 2-Let the solvent flash off and 3-have a helper. We also no import our sail vinyl from Germany and it is the same as the factory material. |
Big Len |
Jul 25 2017, 01:47 PM
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#10
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,747 Joined: 16-July 13 From: Edgewood, New Mexico Member No.: 16,126 Region Association: Southwest Region |
I used the 914 Rubber's German reproduction vinyl and it is an exact match to the original. 3M's #90 adhesive worked well, just make sure everything is lined up. There isn't too much room for error.
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ConeDodger |
Jul 25 2017, 02:27 PM
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#11
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Apex killer! Group: Members Posts: 23,578 Joined: 31-December 04 From: Tahoe Area Member No.: 3,380 Region Association: Northern California |
Don't assume Rob, a lot of folks just don't know the full reach of the great "Help/How To" threads on here. Tom, I didn't want to do the confrontational "don't you know about the search feature" thing. My personal feeling is that we go over this because people are new and that's ok. Besides, it helps to revisit things as things are culturally new. ie: no one would drill a fender now a days as there are so many better music options that don't require an antenna. Trouble is, most fenders are already drilled! J123 - if you're looking for the exact vinyl for strict originality/Concours - then get the Porsche kit. Otherwise, 914Rubber, Sierra Madre, Stoddard's, Auto Atlanta & a few others sell decent vinyl which is close, but not the exact "pepple" texture. As Rob said - follow the cleaning, prep & application procedures religiously for the 3M Hi-Temp version of the adhesive to both surfaces, but there is also a Wurth adhesive also worth looking at. It seems like recently there are more reports coming in of sail vinyl failures/peeling/bubbling/delaminating - so I think that there may be some issues with changed formulas for environmental reasons which could be making them less reliable. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I think I've bought 3 sets of vinyl in the last 10 years and I keep getting failure. The recent is on the top of the roll bar. So, at least, I'll only do a partial replacement this time. I had a similar problem now in 2017, with delaminating/peeling/curling of INTERIOR vinyl using 3M Hi-Temp applied in 2014 using proper procedures on my `88 Westy - after just 3 years. I know my process & it still peeled, while it took the original factory application 20+ years to start peeling. So something is amiss! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) I only add this warning - not to discourage you - but to say to say that even if you follow the procedures, then you may still have issues in a few years. Keeping the car covered or using one of Perry Kiehl's (member) top area umbrella covers will help keep direct sun heat off of the roll bar vinyl - possibly helping out some with longevity of the application. PS - re: arne & Garland's comments above - the secret may be "years ago" before a possible formula change, since I have spots in my Westy where I used 77 & 90 maybe 10+ years ago & those have not yet failed. Eventually anything will dry out & come loose, like the factory stuff is doing after about 20 years on my Westy. Cheers! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Tom /////// |
arne |
Jul 25 2017, 04:11 PM
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#12
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Serial Rescuer of old vehicles... Group: Members Posts: 737 Joined: 31-January 17 From: Eugene, Oregon Member No.: 20,799 Region Association: None |
It seems like recently there are more reports coming in of sail vinyl failures/peeling/bubbling/delaminating - so I think that there may be some issues with changed formulas for environmental reasons which could be making them less reliable... I have considered that. If my old can of 77 is still viable, I will use it before trying anything fresh off the shelf.re: arne & Garland's comments above - the secret may be "years ago" before a possible formula change, since I have spots in my Westy where I used 77 & 90 maybe 10+ years ago & those have not yet failed. Eventually anything will dry out & come loose, like the factory stuff is doing after about 20 years on my Westy. Cheers! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Tom /////// Hoping to see some progress on my car tomorrow when I visit it at the paint shop. |
Garland |
Jul 25 2017, 07:34 PM
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#13
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Restoration Fanatic Group: Members Posts: 1,328 Joined: 8-January 04 From: ......Michigan...... Member No.: 1,535 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
There's a technique called registering. Once you have it positioned where you want it, and before applying any glue tape one side in five or more spots, like hinges on a door. Once you're happy with the location and the hinges, apply the glue start at the center hinge and Roll on the material while smoothing to both sides as you go.
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Porschef |
Jul 25 2017, 07:40 PM
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#14
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How you doin' Group: Members Posts: 2,165 Joined: 7-September 10 From: LawnGuyland Member No.: 12,152 Region Association: North East States |
There's a technique called registering. Once you have it positioned where you want it, and before applying any glue tape one side in five or more spots, like hinges on a door. Once you're happy with the location and the hinges, apply the glue start at the center hinge and Roll on the material while smoothing to both sides as you go. Best way to do it. I used 3M 90 also, follow instructions and you should be fine. Good luck with it. |
Ansbacher |
Jul 25 2017, 07:41 PM
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#15
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 689 Joined: 4-July 14 From: Tampa Bay, Florida Member No.: 17,589 |
I am in the middle of this exact job as we speak. I used the 3M "90" product and was disillusioned. Did the top of the roll bar first with no problem- looks great. Went to do the driver side sail panel and the spray just bubbled up like crazy. Went to apply the vinyl and all kinds of imperfections appeared through the vinyl. Had to remove it, and in the process it ruined the material. Had to order another piece of vinyl from Mikey (actually Scott). When it gets here, I am going to use good ol' reliable contact cement to do the side panels and be done with it!
Ansbacher |
Larmo63 |
Jul 25 2017, 08:58 PM
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#16
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,264 Joined: 3-March 14 From: San Clemente, Ca Member No.: 17,068 Region Association: Southern California |
I am a painting/wallcovering contractor and I have been installing all kinds of vinyls & wallpapers for 32 years. I did the two side sails on my white driver car recently and I used regular contact cement and a chip brush. This was a simple install for me and it turned out perfectly. This isn't rocket science. Take your time, use the right tools, layout, and adhesive. You need a good stiff squeegee like the ones we use for wallpapers. Draw some faint pencil lines on the car before install or use blue tape while there is no glue present to guide you to where the material will eventually land. (Easier on a white car.) The vinyl pieces that Mark @914 Rubber sells are perfect, and are a little bit oversized. There are (or can be) some relief slices you may need to make in the back where the rear vertical trims go on. The 8mm nut under the fender that holds the rear vertical trim is a complete pain in the ass to get to, to loosen/tighten. I use 9mm snap blade knives in my business, these work well for Targa vinyl work. A sharp blade for EVERY cut is important.
I need to do this on my black car soon, maybe I can video the install. Matt? Mark? |
Mikey914 |
Jul 25 2017, 11:20 PM
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#17
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The rubber man Group: Members Posts: 12,657 Joined: 27-December 04 From: Hillsboro, OR Member No.: 3,348 Region Association: None |
I am a painting/wallcovering contractor and I have been installing all kinds of vinyls & wallpapers for 32 years. I did the two side sails on my white driver car recently and I used regular contact cement and a chip brush. This was a simple install for me and it turned out perfectly. This isn't rocket science. Take your time, use the right tools, layout, and adhesive. You need a good stiff squeegee like the ones we use for wallpapers. Draw some faint pencil lines on the car before install or use blue tape while there is no glue present to guide you to where the material will eventually land. (Easier on a white car.) The vinyl pieces that Mark @914 Rubber sells are perfect, and are a little bit oversized. There are (or can be) some relief slices you may need to make in the back where the rear vertical trims go on. The 8mm nut under the fender that holds the rear vertical trim is a complete pain in the ass to get to, to loosen/tighten. I use 9mm snap blade knives in my business, these work well for Targa vinyl work. A sharp blade for EVERY cut is important. I need to do this on my black car soon, maybe I can video the install. Matt? Mark? Yes please do, also we can add it into the contest for the 1st round of content competition. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) |
Matty900 |
Jul 26 2017, 12:41 AM
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#18
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,269 Joined: 21-February 15 From: Oregon Member No.: 18,454 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
I am a painting/wallcovering contractor and I have been installing all kinds of vinyls & wallpapers for 32 years. I did the two side sails on my white driver car recently and I used regular contact cement and a chip brush. This was a simple install for me and it turned out perfectly. This isn't rocket science. Take your time, use the right tools, layout, and adhesive. You need a good stiff squeegee like the ones we use for wallpapers. Draw some faint pencil lines on the car before install or use blue tape while there is no glue present to guide you to where the material will eventually land. (Easier on a white car.) The vinyl pieces that Mark @914 Rubber sells are perfect, and are a little bit oversized. There are (or can be) some relief slices you may need to make in the back where the rear vertical trims go on. The 8mm nut under the fender that holds the rear vertical trim is a complete pain in the ass to get to, to loosen/tighten. I use 9mm snap blade knives in my business, these work well for Targa vinyl work. A sharp blade for EVERY cut is important. I need to do this on my black car soon, maybe I can video the install. Matt? Mark? Hey great Idea, my car is ready for it now. Come up and put it on and I will do the video (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) |
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