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> Need 3.2 conversion electrical help
jim912928
post Aug 16 2017, 05:30 PM
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The AFM point is a good one. Before I put my 3.2l I had a 1.8l ljet. It sat long enough that the flapper "hinges?" got kind of corroded and stuck. The cranking of the engine and the compression wasn't enough to open it. After doing the test above and then hearing the fuel pump turn on...some lub and I was good to go.
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Spoke
post Aug 19 2017, 09:27 PM
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Mark and Ray stopped by my house today to do some debug on the fuel pump relay issue.

We made several steps forward and a couple of steps backwards.

First when trying to see what works on the car, I put the turnsignal stalk to left turnsignals and it wouldn't go back to neutral. So every time we powered the car the left turnsignal was blinking.

We traced a couple of wires on the 911 harness and realized the switched power to pin 86 of the fuel pump relay wasn't connected to switched power. Once connected, the fuel pump would run with ignition power. Success 1!

Next the wire to the starter from the DME needed to be connected to the 914's yellow starter wire. After these 2 connections, the car started and ran as expected. When the engine was turned off, the fuel pump would also turn off. Success 2!

The step backwards was realization that the ignition switch did not switch power off. Power on fuse #8 was always on. Once started, the engine could not be turned off until it stalled on its own, or the fuel pump relay was pulled or the battery cable removed.

Things to do to finish the install:
1) Figure out why the ignition switch doesn't switch off power.
2) Connect yellow wire on the 911 harness (runs fuel pump when cranking) to the 914 yellow wire to the starter bendix.
3) Fix the turnsignal stalk so it doesn't stick on the left turnsignal. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Question about the starter wire from ignition switch for those who know 911 engine transplants: Where is the best place to tap into the starter wire from the ignition switch? This is the smaller yellow wire that goes from the ignition switch to the original 914 relay board on pin 1 of the 14 pin connector, to the bendix on the starter.
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mepstein
post Aug 20 2017, 08:08 AM
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Huge step to have the engine start with the turn of a key!
Driving the 10 hours to Octeenerfest is getting real.
Jerry is the man! I owe him a lot and will push him to collect.
I bought some more Spoke LED's while I was there.
If you see the lights in person you really see the difference from stock. Even in daytime.
Ben's heat exchangers and M&K - R exhaust sound amazing.
I will use his stock style muffler for my other conversion so my wife will ride with me.

Thanks for the help everyone!
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Cairo94507
post Aug 20 2017, 08:23 AM
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Glad to hear you resolved that issue and will be driving the car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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jim912928
post Aug 20 2017, 10:24 AM
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congrats!
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timothy_nd28
post Aug 22 2017, 09:12 AM
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QUOTE(Spoke @ Aug 19 2017, 08:27 PM) *

Things to do to finish the install:
1) Figure out why the ignition switch doesn't switch off power.
2) Connect yellow wire on the 911 harness (runs fuel pump when cranking) to the 914 yellow wire to the starter bendix.
3) Fix the turnsignal stalk so it doesn't stick on the left turnsignal. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Question about the starter wire from ignition switch for those who know 911 engine transplants: Where is the best place to tap into the starter wire from the ignition switch? This is the smaller yellow wire that goes from the ignition switch to the original 914 relay board on pin 1 of the 14 pin connector, to the bendix on the starter.



You are correct, the start wire enters pin 1 of the 14 pin connector. Assuming the relay board is still being used in his setup, The start wire is again present at pin 6 of the 12 pin connector. You could also use either terminals II or IV on this relay board. This would be my first choice if you need this start signal from inside the engine bay.

If you need to tie into the starter wire while inside the cabin, you can find a bundle of wires under the passenger seat. It is the same color wire from the ignition switch, it's pretty easy to differentiate from the other wires. Also, depending on the year of Mark's 914, you may want to bypass the seat interlock circuit under the seat as well.
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