Opinions re mid-rise BendPak scissor lift, Flush install Options

[Cairo94507]

So I have put my garage off long enough. I was going to add a 4th stall....but I made the mistake of mentioning that to my wife. You can imagine how that went. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/KMA.gif)

I have been married 30 years last May (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif) and one would think I would learn my lesson. Just stupid I guess. So, after that abuse, (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/slap.gif) I said, "Hey, I know, I will just remodel the 3 car garage! She signed off on that.

Part of the remodel is going to be to add an in-ground, flush installed mid-rise scissor lift into the middle bay of the garage. I have tentatively selected the BendPak MDS-6KF http://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/specialty...ts/mds-6kf.aspx which has 6K lbs. capacity with a max. lift height of 45.5" and features an "...open-center design that not only allows full unobstructed access to the underside of the car, but is also clear of frame cross member on the floor that are typical with other mid-rise lifts." The cost is $2,310 plus tax and likely a $135 delivery charge for a total of $2,612.48. I like BendPak because the last lift I had, a nice 4 post, was BendPak and it worked beautifully and appeared well made. I see they now offer their lots in Gray- likely what I will get, assuming I am not persuaded to another buy another lift by our esteemed members, as their blue is a bit bright (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) for me.

Of course I have to saw cut my garage floor and pour some concrete to make a vault for the lift and then I will porcelain tile the whole floor so the lift is absolutely flush with the porcelain tile when done. I will also make a nice table top for the lift so I can have an additional work bench.

So, please let me know your thoughts, good or bad, regarding my plan. After all, I can't have my Six coming home to a garage in disrepair. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[VaccaRabite]

Unless they make a porcelain tile that can survive heavy tools dropping on it and not fracturing, I think you will be better off epoxy coating your concrete.

I can only imagine oil, water and gas seeping under the tiles and the tiles lifting. Not to mention trying to roll tool chests over them. Seems like a nightmare in a garage.

Zach

[kahluver]

I'm a cheapskate and bought the Harbor Freight midrise lift. I'm happy with it and only paid $1200 including shipping.

Sounds like an awesome plan and much like Jack Olsen's garage which is incredible.
http://jalopnik.com/the-amazing-diy-porsch...rage-1668857982

[injunmort]

i bought bend-pak mid rise. it has leaked since the day i got it. save $1200.00 and buy harbor freight mid-rise. you cant tell the difference aside from the stickers and price.

[mepstein]

Use the tile that jack Olsen used and you should be fine. The flush lift is something both you and your wife will love. Super usesfull - you, invisible - her.

[Cracker]

I have a friend who "chickened out" regarding the porcelain tiles - mainly because he didn't have faith he could find an installer worthy of the materials. If done properly, they are extremely durable - like VERY durable. Expensive too. I plan on doing the same thing with my little garage space + a small (minute lounge
are).

Are you trenching the floor for power? That system requires 240 correct?

Tony

[BeatNavy]

Are you trenching the floor for power? That system requires 240 correct?

Most scissor lifts, including this one, are dual voltage capable but are shipped wired for 110, I believe.

I get my Challenger next Wednesday (hopefully). Looking forward to it. I've thought about setting it flush in the garage floor, but I'm going to wait and use it a while first to figure out where it works "best." Once you put it flush, that's pretty much where it stays.

[GeorgeRud]

Pay attention to the position of your garage door opener as it can also interfere with the lifted car. You might want to experiment with your positioning before cutting the concrete. Ramps are cheap and easy to make.

[mepstein]

Pay attention to the position of your garage door opener as it can also interfere with the lifted car. You might want to experiment with your positioning before cutting the concrete. Ramps are cheap and easy to make.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) use it for a while and find the right position.

[Cairo94507]

OK- good info. I already have the garage openers resolved. I went with Chamberlain jack shaft openers mounted on the wall right next to the doors. No overhead track or opener over the cars. Cleans up the ceiling and is super quiet.

I have seen Jack Olsen's thread on Garage Journal and that was the thread that convinced me to go with porcelain tile. Since then I have done a ton of reading and if installed correctly, and that is the key, it is as hard as concrete floors. Plus it looks terrific and is easy to keep clean.

I will tench the floor for the power and hydraulics and also add another piece of conduit for any future needs for the lift area. I am also considering adding a few, maybe 4, LED lights in the lift bay floor that would illuminate the bottom of the car. Make it easy to see the bottom of the car while you are working under it.

Injunmort- If I got a new BendPak and it leaked, they would be fixing it, no doubt about that. Sorry you have had issues with your lift.

[gereed75]

Never saw the tile. Sure it is cool. My plan is to go polished and dyed concrete. Love the look and would appear to be bullet proof. Any one have any experience??

Oh yea, I went cheap chineses on the lift. Aaaah, looks identical to the Bend pack MD6XP, 30% less. Works ok, had to teflon tape all the fittings. It has some pretty versatile lift options with a variety of pads and arm placements that you might not get with the KF. I am sure you have considered this but make darn sure that those center lift pads will clear the front tires and not extend back past the fire wall. You need all the room to drop the engine. Which brings up another point, with a recessed pit, will there be room to get a "cart" under the engine when it gets dropped? I use a four wheel dolly for stability. I would hate to have the front dolly wheels fall in the pit.

If I was recessing it I would cut a service trench to route the hydraulics "under" the floor so the hydraulic pump could set aside and out of the way.

[Steve]

i bought bend-pak mid rise. it has leaked since the day i got it. save $1200.00 and buy harbor freight mid-rise. you cant tell the difference aside from the stickers and price.

Interesting.. Mine has also leaked since the day I bought it. Just the left cylinder when you put it on a high setting. It squirts fluid out the top. I just put up with it. It's way past the warranty to replace the cylinder.

[siverson]

Strange - mine has never leaked and I love it.

-Steve

[siverson]

Having been through this, it would be best to think about exactly where you are going to have the lift sit in the hole and where you are going to have the hydraulics connect. You can connect it on either side and straight or 90. And then have the conduit line up exactly with that plan as the hydraulic line does not bend much. And I'd probably use super over-sized conduit like 2" to give you some wiggle room.

And maybe also use some sort of self leveling something to get the floor *super* flat or just plan on using a metal sheet or shims like I have. Its no fun to have your lift sitting on 3 points.

-Steve

[Steve]

I built a ramp that I drive up on to clear the lift. I didn't want to fool around wth the concrete and if I move someday I can take the lift and ramp with me. I found instructions for the ramp on the Ferrari forum and just copied it. I park my car on it.

[GeorgeRud]

The ramps were an easy project made with some 2x3" lumber and 3/4" plywood decking.

[GeorgeRud]

I realize these photos aren't helpful to the original poster, but are shown to help others that may want info on how to construct ramps. Mine are 140" long and 12" wide and attached handles on the side make them easy to move out of the way if desired.

[mlindner]

Michael, sounds a little familiar.....you will love it. Best, Mark

[Front yard mechanic]

At 4.5" tall are the ramps nessary? How low are our cars? Being a general contractor I would charge at least 2500.00 dollars to cut ,trench, plumb,pour & finish concrete. Not to mention running a separate circuit for power lights etc. porcelain tile uses thin set mortar and is not affected by oil or gas but is very hard and fragile if not full set. Btw I want one too! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[mepstein]

At 4.5" tall are the ramps nessary? How low are our cars? Being a general contractor I would charge at least 2500.00 dollars to cut ,trench, plumb,pour & finish concrete. Not to mention running a separate circuit for power lights etc. porcelain tile uses thin set mortar and is not affected by oil or gas but is very hard and fragile if not full set. Btw I want one too! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

I dont need ramps for my stock 4 but i would be disappointed if my GT car wasnt low enough to need them.