Desperate for some Help With Microsquirt, Beyond Frustrated Options

[Mblizzard]

I have been trying to get my conversion done in time for Okteenerfest. I have run up against a brick wall and just cant seem to figure out what i am doing wrong.

If anyone can help me by looking at my tune files or providing insight it will be very much appreciated.

I can get th car to idle but nothing beyond that. Any use of the throttle is less than impressive and almost useless. Meaning it bogs down and does not accelerate at all.

I have no clue what i am missing.

2056 with new low impeadance injectors. Bosch Wideband O2 sensor.

Really need some suggestions. Not sure if i can post the tune files here. But will try.

[McMark]

Somewhere in the menus you can pull up the 'Realtime Display' which shows all of the readings from the sensors. Actually, realtime display pulls up graphs, and then there's a button to see all the actual numeric values. Post a picture of that, with the key on, but not running. I've recently realized how vital understanding the 'non-running' readings of sensors is. For example, your MAP sensor should be reading around 100kpa while not-running (at sea level). It's pretty easy, once you know, to look at the gauges before you start the car and see if that looks right. Also, when the engine is cold, the CHT and Intake Air Temp sensors should read about the same. If they don't, one of them is configured wrong.


Also, have you used a timing light to confirm the timing displayed on the laptop matches what you see in real life?

Oh, and finally, I think it's prudent to turn off all closed-loop interaction while tuning. If you're trying to tune the VE table, and the AFR table is fiddling with things 'behind your back' then you're going to have a tough time because you'll make a change in the VE table, and then the AFR controls will put it back where it was (essentially). Tune the VE table open loop, then once it's running well turn on closed loop. This will make it run worse, until you tweak the AFR table so it runs back where it was. At the end of that process you have a tuned VE table and a tuned AFR table and everything is happy. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[Mblizzard]

Somewhere in the menus you can pull up the 'Realtime Display' which shows all of the readings from the sensors. Actually, realtime display pulls up graphs, and then there's a button to see all the actual numeric values. Post a picture of that, with the key on, but not running. I've recently realized how vital understanding the 'non-running' readings of sensors is. For example, your MAP sensor should be reading around 100kpa while not-running (at sea level). It's pretty easy, once you know, to look at the gauges before you start the car and see if that looks right. Also, when the engine is cold, the CHT and Intake Air Temp sensors should read about the same. If they don't, one of them is configured wrong.


Also, have you used a timing light to confirm the timing displayed on the laptop matches what you see in real life?

Oh, and finally, I think it's prudent to turn off all closed-loop interaction while tuning. If you're trying to tune the VE table, and the AFR table is fiddling with things 'behind your back' then you're going to have a tough time because you'll make a change in the VE table, and then the AFR controls will put it back where it was (essentially). Tune the VE table open loop, then once it's running well turn on closed loop. This will make it run worse, until you tweak the AFR table so it runs back where it was. At the end of that process you have a tuned VE table and a tuned AFR table and everything is happy. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

I think I got caught by the closed loop problem on my first attempt. Will see if I can find that display.

[Mark Henry]

I think I got caught by the closed loop problem on my first attempt. Will see if I can find that display.

Ahhhh! You have to tune in Open Loop! Always!
Closed loop is something you could try after tuning in open loop. Closed loop may always run too lean for our cars that like things a little rich side.

On the injectors 270cc is fine if they do that at 30-35 PSI. I totally hate increasing pressure to increase flow, to me it's a terrible way to compensate for incorrect injector sizing. I run at 35 psi.

[mightyohm]

Ahhhh! You have to tune in Open Loop! Always!
Closed loop is something you could try after tuning in open loop. Closed loop may always run too lean for our cars that like things a little rich side.

As long as you set the AFR targets correctly I don't see why this would be the case.

I agree that tuning open loop is usually a better approach (particularly if the AFR targets aren't configured correctly) but I've done it both ways. The key is to understand what is happening, you can usually see the influence of the closed loop control and decide if it's helping or hurting the tune.