Desperate for some Help With Microsquirt, Beyond Frustrated |
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Desperate for some Help With Microsquirt, Beyond Frustrated |
Mblizzard |
Aug 25 2017, 04:54 PM
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#1
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,033 Joined: 28-January 13 From: Knoxville Tn Member No.: 15,438 Region Association: South East States |
I have been trying to get my conversion done in time for Okteenerfest. I have run up against a brick wall and just cant seem to figure out what i am doing wrong.
If anyone can help me by looking at my tune files or providing insight it will be very much appreciated. I can get th car to idle but nothing beyond that. Any use of the throttle is less than impressive and almost useless. Meaning it bogs down and does not accelerate at all. I have no clue what i am missing. 2056 with new low impeadance injectors. Bosch Wideband O2 sensor. Really need some suggestions. Not sure if i can post the tune files here. But will try. |
Mblizzard |
Sep 12 2017, 09:41 AM
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#2
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,033 Joined: 28-January 13 From: Knoxville Tn Member No.: 15,438 Region Association: South East States |
Well all is running with just a few minor issues. Most of them self inflicted wounds!
Still working with the idle adjustments and I am seeing some higher CHT temps than I want. Playing with the timing a bit to see if I can get them down. May just wind up adding some more fuel in to cool things off more at cruising speeds. The one thing I was wondering is because I am not controlling timing yet should I be using the tooth wheel setting? It pulls some adjustment for timing based on rpm from a table which I have set up to mimic the factory timing. Not sure it makes much difference but I have been struggling with the timing for the CHT temps and not met with much success. Running at above 350 most of the time and it heats up rapidly on hill climbs. In fact I reduces it to about 23 degrees and the temps were worse. So I was wondering if the timing of the fuel injection could be part of this? Hoping for the best on the trip and because I have the ECU set up with Bluetooth connection and I am running MSDROID on a tablet I should be able to make fuel corrections as need on the trip to Okteenerfest. |
Mark Henry |
Sep 17 2017, 04:55 PM
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#3
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that's what I do! Group: Members Posts: 20,065 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Port Hope, Ontario Member No.: 26 Region Association: Canada |
Well all is running with just a few minor issues. Most of them self inflicted wounds! Still working with the idle adjustments and I am seeing some higher CHT temps than I want. Playing with the timing a bit to see if I can get them down. May just wind up adding some more fuel in to cool things off more at cruising speeds. The one thing I was wondering is because I am not controlling timing yet should I be using the tooth wheel setting? It pulls some adjustment for timing based on rpm from a table which I have set up to mimic the factory timing. Not sure it makes much difference but I have been struggling with the timing for the CHT temps and not met with much success. Running at above 350 most of the time and it heats up rapidly on hill climbs. In fact I reduces it to about 23 degrees and the temps were worse. So I was wondering if the timing of the fuel injection could be part of this? Hoping for the best on the trip and because I have the ECU set up with Bluetooth connection and I am running MSDROID on a tablet I should be able to make fuel corrections as need on the trip to Okteenerfest. My experience would say you're trying to achieve too lean of AFR especially on WOT or load. I can do 14:1 with my car because it has nickies, but every iron cylinder car I've tested/tuned 13.5:1 is the big load (hill) max, trying to lean it out further has always resulted in skyrocketing head temps. this often is combined with little or no recovery on the downside of the hill. Frankly once you get beyond a certain head temp heat soak sets in and it will never recover. You have to totally ignore the results for water cooled cars, they have way more control over head temps and can do the lean burn trick. You have to remember that the aircooled engine is based on a 1930's design. Some say aircooled, some say air/oil cooled, really it's air/oil and fuel charge cooled. You have to run a bit rich, you have to run at minimum 3K RPM because leaning out and lugging an aircooled will kill the engine PDQ. I get into arguments about aircooled AFR all the time, least I used too, guys basically saying I'm an idiot and "what does he know". Then in short order I'll hear thru the grapevine the same person who wouldn't listen to me has dropped a valve seat, etc. |
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