Show us your splitter! Options

[HalfMoon]

I had posted this inquiry before in the garage but I suppose I really should have posted it here...
I've a Sheridan standard wide-body that I'm having some floating issues with (no doubt due to the sbc anchor out back) and so I've decided to build a splitter in the hopes of keeping things a bit more stable.
As you can see I have a duck tail but it's useless for any kind of real downforce nor can I say I'm keen on building a wing as this car is also streeted, but I think a splitter may help.
Let's see what ya'll are building/have built!
Thanks
David

[Cracker]

Let me put it this way...I broke by first splitter early one weekend at Road Atlanta. I then went on to set the fastest lap and speed I have ever done in a 914. I went 164.3 mph around T9 with no splitter - you do not need one. BTW: I run a 3.5" splitter reveal and have a massive rear wing - if you do try to add a splitter the 5" you are thinking is way too big.

Tony

I would add more negative toe in the rear - try .100" per side and O-toe in the front. You also have to add more - camber... I run 2.35 in the front & 2.40 in the rear.

[HalfMoon]

Let me put it this way...I broke by first splitter early one weekend at Road Atlanta. I then went on to set the fastest lap and speed I have ever done in a 914. I went 164.3 mph around T9 with no splitter - you do not need one. BTW: I run a 3.5" splitter reveal and have a massive rear wing - if you do try to add a splitter the 5" you are thinking is way too big.

Tony

I would add more negative toe in the rear - try .100" per side and O-toe in the front. You also have to add more - camber... I run 2.35 in the front & 2.40 in the rear.

I think given that my fronts are maxed out going to -2.40 in the rear wouldn't work. And I suspect for the same reason -.100" toe in the rear and zero in the front wouldn't work. Your numbers hinge on using camber plates so my fronts can get more negative camber, right?
Front (best that could be achieved w/o camber plates)
L negative.94 Toe 1/16
R negative .65 Toe 1/16
What's your corner weights? Mebbe I can remedy the problem with added front weight until I get camber plates?
As an aside, the numbers you're recommending are for an iron v-8, right? 2360 is my total weight.

[Cracker]

You can do what you want but you did ask for direction...I don't know nearly as much as allot of folks around here but very few have gone faster in a 914. It has taken time, trial and error to figure out what make these cars tick. Best of luck.

Tony

...and I suspect for the same reason -.100" toe in the rear and zero in the front wouldn't work. Your numbers hinge on using camber plates so my fronts can get more negative camber, right?

[HalfMoon]

You can do what you want but you did ask for direction...I don't know nearly as much as allot of folks around here but very few have gone faster in a 914. It has taken time, trial and error to figure out what make these cars tick. Best of luck.

Tony

...and I suspect for the same reason -.100" toe in the rear and zero in the front wouldn't work. Your numbers hinge on using camber plates so my fronts can get more negative camber, right?

Huh?
I wasn't being argumentative. Quite the opposite, but if you took it that way....(shrug).

So, can anyone else chime in? Can I go with more rear toe and zero toe in the front if I can't get much more negative camber out of my front (due to a lack of camber plates)?
I'm a bit hesitant not knowing what effect that could make (without getting what's been noted as a need for more negative front camber)

[stownsen914]

Being maxed out on camber should not influence how much toe you decide to go with, in front or in back. Zero toe in front should be fine. I use toe out personally, but my car is track only. You can try .1" toe in back. I use more than that to counter flexing, but it should be a good start. Don't worry about the camber for now. More would be better, but I don't think that's going to be the source of the wandering.

You mention above that you added bump steer. Do you mean that you added a bump steer kit? If that's what you meant, you still need to measure your bump steer to make sure it's really been minimized. It varies widely from car to car depending on ride height, tire/wheel sizes, and other factors.

In case you're not familiar, here's an article on Longacre's site about how to do it => http://www.longacreracing.com/technical-ar....aspx?item=8162. Of course, they want to sell you an expensive tool to help measure it. You can DIY it and get pretty close with string and a tape measure, or make a tool yourself similar to the one soe vendors sell if you are handy.

Re: adding weight, I would not choose that option. Your car is at a nice weight at 2360. That should not be your issue.

Scott

[HalfMoon]

Re: adding weight, I would not choose that option. Your car is at a nice weight at 2360. That should not be your issue.

Scott

Oh, and for the purposes of clarification, I wasn't thinking about actually adding weight, rather changing the corner weighting to reflect carrying a lil more weight in the front.
Currently 480/480 700/700. But I was thinking changing a lil could help.
Something like 490/490 690/690.
Not sure if I was unclear or not about weighting.
D