Easy as 1 2 3, Got it yesterday, pushed all projects aside! Options

[mgphoto]

Got the 123Ignition yesterday, I pushed all of my projects back!
"Sorry granny I'll get to those bearings on your heart/lung machine soon, I promise."
Blocked out 3 hours for the removal and install.
Added about an hour to charge the battery.
Installed as expected, there is a spacer that is necessary for type 4, just slides over the dizzy shaft.
I decided to route the wires and vacuum away from the fan so access to the vacuum nipple was easier, since the vacuum can is gone there's a lot more space.
Followed the instructions but made the mistake of using the TDC 0* instead of the 27* as the basic timing point. I just walked the dizzy CCW until she started!
Didn't do anything other than matched my timing with my idle, I let her run till she settled down.
Just around the block once, ha ha the trailer hitching is GONE!
Responsive throttle, man!
Setting up a tuning session, nice 150 mile run up the California coast with the AFR meter.
Mike

[mgphoto]

So the miss I find is a loose injector connector, yeah remember D-Jet connectors.

I've been taking the car on 20 to 30 mile test runs, dealing with ambiant temps and fuel octane.

There has been a real Jeckell and Hyde situation, one run good and strong, another lots of ping and no power at WOT.

I started to lean to the temp issue. Until yesterday, we had 99 to 102* F I took the car for an 80 mile run through a few stressing circumstances.

After 6 miles, engine not even up to running temps she felt like, I've heard the English use the term "lumpy."

I was heading into a downhill section of the 14 FWY north, I pushed the throttle to max, she responded.

From that point on she was Jeckell! The temps outside were brutal, but as long as I was hitting 85 most of the time the breeze was nice.

Since the loose injector wire I've done nothing under the hood except adjust the idle using the air bypass screw, which has been varying from 600 to 1300 RPM. So after reading another 123 post, I will start expermenting with removing the retard vacuum line. I had a problem with low idle with the headlights on, doesn't help the lightend flywheel any.

Here is where I start to examine the fuel issue. After an internet search for Summer/Winter fuel blend info. Did you know that they add butane to gasoline in the summer months.

My normal fuel is not the best gas ever, so I suspect this might be the issue.

I found some 100 octane "race fuel" at a Sonoco station in Pasadena.
I have been mixing that with the 91 octane. By blending both fuels I been able to find a point that makes the car run without pinging.
Yesterdays blend was about 94 octane. Even with stressing the engine with full throttle uphill acceleration no pinging. I did hear a singular ping on occasion, seemed to happen between off throttle and WOT at 3500 to 4000 RPM.
Oil temps never went over 215* F.


Next I will burn off the 94 octane and use a high quality 91 octane.
When I get what I consider a stable ignition I will begin checking the FI with the AFR meter.
Stay tuned.

[BeatNavy]

Cool, thanks for the pictures. So now I know it's advance curve "b" when mine arrives (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

So the miss I find is a loose injector connector, yeah remember D-Jet connectors.

I've had that happen to me a couple of times in the last few weeks (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) . Need to figure out what the "trick" is (e.g., getting those little "boots" over the injectors...?)

[mgphoto]

Cool, thanks for the pictures. So now I know it's advance curve "b" when mine arrives (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

So the miss I find is a loose injector connector, yeah remember D-Jet connectors.

I've had that happen to me a couple of times in the last few weeks (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) . Need to figure out what the "trick" is (e.g., getting those little "boots" over the injectors...?)

Hey BeatNavy,
I might change the curve after I do some more research and remove the retard vacuum line.

Use the boots, if you got them. The original style has pull tabs on either side of the boot. Newer Bowsby style doesn't have the tabs, but the rubber is newer and much more supple.