914 clock repair?, reasonable recommendation Options

[drem914]

Just purchased a clock as part of group of center console gauges online from someone that said it was working when they pulled the console out. It was the only one of the three (volt and temp) that was not all scratched up. It was completely frozen. Now I have 2 that don't work (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

I went to North Hollywood Speedo and they said "Service on these can range from $195 to $385. 1-5 day turn around."

I don't need a clock that bad....

Anyone have recommendation for a reasonable repair on the center console clock? (later model)

[bbrock]

Deleted. Comment doesn't apply to this clock.

[Superhawk996]

Be aware the solder on the two legs that pop apart is low temperature and acts as a fuse to safeguard the clock when the mechanics gum up enough to increase resistance. There is a sticker on the back of the clock indicating solder temp. If you use regular solder, the clock may eventually fry if it gums up again. I fixed mine simply by remelting the low temp solder that was originally there and soldered the legs back together. It cost me only the electricity for the soldering station.

@bbrock


That one is a later model quartz unit. I'm not sure if they have the same solder "fuse" that we have on our earlier mechanical VDO Kienzle units.


@Lmaze
I've never worked on a quart unit so advice is worth what you paid.

Electrolytic capacitors (the can type) go bad over time as you've already discovered. The electrolyte in them dries out and the no longer act as a capacitor. Alternatively, they swell and explode / leak as looks like is the case with yours. The electrolyte is corrosive so the lead that looks fried might just corroded away and not "fried" without any other damage. The capacitors are the prime suspects for sure.

The other thing to look at if you're not alreay aware, is the copper board trace that might be below or near the capacitor. Not uncommon for the electrolyte to corrode that trace away too, but, that can usually be fixed with a jumper wire if necessary.


Please post with followup on how this works out.

[bbrock]

Be aware the solder on the two legs that pop apart is low temperature and acts as a fuse to safeguard the clock when the mechanics gum up enough to increase resistance. There is a sticker on the back of the clock indicating solder temp. If you use regular solder, the clock may eventually fry if it gums up again. I fixed mine simply by remelting the low temp solder that was originally there and soldered the legs back together. It cost me only the electricity for the soldering station.

@bbrock


That one is a later model quartz unit. I'm not sure if they have the same solder "fuse" that we have on our earlier mechanical VDO Kienzle units.

My bad. I didn't catch that. Thanks for pointing it out. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

[Superhawk996]

My bad. I didn't catch that. Thanks for pointing it out. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

What do I know . . . . I'm only guessing too since I've never actually worked on the quartz version (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

It's the internet though . . . advice is always worth what was paid!

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