Rear lifting in hard coenering, Too much spring? Options

[john rogers]

If the body/chassis is twisting that is another problem all together. Does the car have a cage or extra stiffing added? You want the car to be as flat as possible when cornering as hard as it can go.

[Dr. Roger]

=-))
(IMG:http://www.meaneyracing.com/gallery/albums/set6/images/000911brown943.jpg)
Is this "Sway"? by Meany Racing

[TimT]

FWIW my 914 has 450# fronts and 350# rear springs.front sway bar, rear is there but disconnected.

People comment that on the track my car looks like its well dialed in. ie very little body roll

[slivel]

Also FWIW, I too, ran 450 front and 350 rear rates for about 2 seasons (and no rear sway) but always had too much oversteer. Now I am using progressive rate springs 160-450 front and 125-250 rear. Last race, the car felt very solid. I even hooked up the rear sway.

[Thorshammer]

Please Pm me your complete set up:

Shocks Make, settings etc, also amount of droop in the rear.
Bushings, Rubber???? please say no. If it is bound up it is no good.
Spring in the rear, is it 400lbs???
21mm torsion bars
21 mm sway bar (way too small)
No rear bar, another mistake
Tires this is huge
alignment setup
Cage Just a short description is it tied into the suspension consoles at all or is it just for safety.

So heres some fodder for the big gun.

Old School Very stiff springs, medium sway bars can work, but normally provides good grip with very little feedback at the limit.

New school thinking, Medium springs with tenders, and very stiff front sway bar with soft rear bar for tuning.

Tires affect this very much. if you are on radials, or BP slicks this changes everything.

But heres a list that should get you in the ballpark.

22-23mm torsion bars
1 1/8 .110 wall front sway bar with 5-8 inch long links
Any and all bushings as free as possible, bearings in the front are your only choice
Rear trailing arms can be delrin, but must be done properly, Reamed to size and fitted correctly
Rear springs 250-275 lbs with hydraulic spring perches (this eliminates the spring from winding during compresion) available from hyperco, penske etc...
The smallest rear bar you can find. the stock bar works okay. I use a 5/8 bar gun drilled and long arms to reduce the effective rate.


As for your problem, it is hard to tell you what is wrong until the complete package is known. as for the rear end, don't forget the bushings, if they are stiff, the car will do exactly what you are describing due to being bound up. this is common with some aftermarket bushings. Also, you don't say if the inside rear wheel was lifting (unlikely) or the roll rate of the rear end made the car appear like one side was "lifting". Also don't always believe what someone in a car behind you is saying, have someone take phots entering, mid corner and exiting, then you will know. Video is great as well.

Erik Madsen

[retrotech]

wow, thanks Eric. Yo gave me allot to consider. I think my best approach is to contact the local race shop, and have them "set it up". Its time for big brakes anyway.