My '70 V-8 Assembly Thread, a few updates and pic's |
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My '70 V-8 Assembly Thread, a few updates and pic's |
76-914 |
Oct 14 2017, 02:44 PM
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#1
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Repeat Offender & Resident Subaru Antagonist Group: Members Posts: 13,494 Joined: 23-January 09 From: Temecula, CA Member No.: 9,964 Region Association: Southern California |
If you didn't see elsewhere this is a 1970 914 w/ a 327 and 901 transmission. I purchased the car from "Bullit" and here is some info I gotten thus far. The wiring harness is out of a '73; the front end is off a 911 but I forget which year w/ "M" calipers; Trailing arms have some of Foley's reinforcement kit; Engman inner stiffener kit was installed; Griffen radiator;window regulators from a '73; stock 914 1/2 shafts and a lot more which I'll note later.
I'm presently working on the rear brakes and trailing arms and have 2 questions. What is the torque valve for the nut that my torque wrench is attached to; 108 ft lb or 50 ft lb? The manual says 50 for "Control arm bearing/body" and 108 ft lbs for the "Control arm bearing/control arm". Not sure which is which! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) |
76-914 |
Nov 25 2017, 06:41 PM
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#2
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Repeat Offender & Resident Subaru Antagonist Group: Members Posts: 13,494 Joined: 23-January 09 From: Temecula, CA Member No.: 9,964 Region Association: Southern California |
Since I have this huge mass of cast iron I added an anode rod to protect my aluminum radiator. Cheap insurance.
Of all things the blinkers quit working so I submersed myself again only to find it was the ignition switch. BTW, Pelican does not stock them and only orders one once they've received your payment. Big of them, Huh. May Mark will stock them as we all know the Chinese switches are crapola. Modified the Most Excellent steering pan cover that I received from Bruce aka bdstone, to accept the hoses run beneath. Then I happened upon the 4th Circle of Hell. The dip stick tube was broken and needed to be replaced. This is the old one. I thought the broken piece was difficult to remove but it paled in comparison to installing the new one. There was no Good place to tap the new one into place. I thought about using a long large screwdriver but that would have place too much force upon the flared section of the tube. I farted around for 2 hours before deciding upon this method. I heated a cheap 7/16" wrench. It spread the load across the flared section enough that I could hammer it into place with a 1/4" steel rod. Hard to visualize but it worked. Three damned hours to R&R that thing. Attached image(s) |
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