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> My '70 V-8 Assembly Thread, if you look long enough you'll find the rust
76-914
post Oct 14 2017, 02:44 PM
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If you didn't see elsewhere this is a 1970 914 w/ a 327 and 901 transmission. I purchased the car from "Bullit" and here is some info I gotten thus far. The wiring harness is out of a '73; the front end is off a 911 but I forget which year w/ "M" calipers; Trailing arms have some of Foley's reinforcement kit; Engman inner stiffener kit was installed; Griffen radiator;window regulators from a '73; stock 914 1/2 shafts and a lot more which I'll note later.
I'm presently working on the rear brakes and trailing arms and have 2 questions. What is the torque valve for the nut that my torque wrench is attached to; 108 ft lb or 50 ft lb?
The manual says 50 for "Control arm bearing/body" and 108 ft lbs for the "Control arm bearing/control arm". Not sure which is which! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

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Chris914n6
post Oct 14 2017, 02:53 PM
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108. 50 is for the 3 bolts on the "adjustment plate". You will want the susp loaded (at ride height) to set the rubber bushings. If it's not rubber then it won't matter.

"M" calipers are SC, 20mm rotors.

Oh, and nice score on the new project.
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76-914
post Oct 14 2017, 03:13 PM
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2nd question. The new E brake cable head came with a retaining clip I hadn't seen before. I have several of the standard style clips but they won't slide on because there isn't enough of the groove protruding thru the bracket. It's as if the bracket is 1/32" too thick as shown in this pic.

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This is a pic of the small clip installed as I received it but with 2 washers between it and the bracket to take up the slack. Without the spacer it just wobbles.

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76-914
post Oct 14 2017, 03:15 PM
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QUOTE(Chris914n6 @ Oct 14 2017, 01:53 PM) *

108. 50 is for the 3 bolts on the "adjustment plate". You will want the susp loaded (at ride height) to set the rubber bushings. If it's not rubber then it won't matter.

"M" calipers are SC, 20mm rotors.

Oh, and nice score on the new project.

Thx Chris, I thought that was it but wasn't sure. I totally forgot about loading it though. Thx.
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zig-n-zag
post Oct 14 2017, 04:10 PM
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I say 108 ftlbs for the nut, and the three bolts which mount the bracket to the body are torqued to 50 ftlbs. I allow myself to be wrong, though I think I could be right.
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76-914
post Oct 14 2017, 05:30 PM
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Must be 108 if both you guys agree. I couldn't access the R side as well so I pulled the flare I found the holes for the flare were drilled after it was painted so I sanded/cleaned and primed the bare metal spots where it was drilled out and on the cut line as well. While I was at it I did the same on the left side and for a gash on the rear trunk lid. That spot will be covered by a Ducktail spoiler so it will probably just get some bondo filler later.

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burton73
post Oct 14 2017, 09:03 PM
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That spot will be covered by a Ducktail spoiler so it will probably just get some bondo filler later.

Do you have the Ducktail spoiler? I have a nice small wing that was on a V8 car I had.

Bob B
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76-914
post Oct 15 2017, 09:42 AM
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QUOTE(burton73 @ Oct 14 2017, 08:03 PM) *

That spot will be covered by a Ducktail spoiler so it will probably just get some bondo filler later.

Do you have the Ducktail spoiler? I have a nice small wing that was on a V8 car I had.

Bob B
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I do indeed, thanks. It came with the car but had not been installed. I haven't even unwrapped it yet. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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76-914
post Oct 15 2017, 02:40 PM
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I spent this morning doing a little house cleaning. When the Hell Hole wall was patched it was done so using 3-4 smaller pieces that were welded together with lap joints. Not the prettiest but functional. I had seen this in the photos posted prior to buying the car. Before I reattached the flare I decided to take a look under some very thick undercoating and found Mr. Ugly staring back at me! There is also another small patch closer to the front that you can see in the after pics. Glad I looked or this would have needed another repair in a few years.

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I cleaned the metal with a wire brush on my grinder then primed the recessed and exposed areas as well. Next I filled the voids and lap joints with Wurth's
Seam Sealer followed up with 2 coats of primer. Doesn't look like 3 hours work but it was.

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Also took a good pic of the block casting #

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So. it's a

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Head casting ID but I haven't lifted a valve cover to get the casting #

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So apparently it's "G" which is a 350 head. Will the 350 mate to a 327?. That's why the casting number will be more accurate. I guess it's possible that some modification was done.

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Andyrew
post Oct 15 2017, 06:52 PM
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I found this on the head casting, looks like maybe a crate 350 head.

3998993


Might be the same head I ran on my v8. Lemme look. If so, I made 240hp and 290 tq to the wheels on a less than ideal setup without messing with the head. It was a torquey sob.


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bulitt
post Oct 15 2017, 07:46 PM
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Andrew thats the info I have
Heads- 3998993 rebuilt with
Intake valves 2.02
Exhaust 1.60
76cc chamber
Roller rockers
Hydraulic lifters
Block bored .060 over

Your doing a great job Kent!

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rhodyguy
post Oct 16 2017, 07:14 AM
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Be pointed forward when you go for the first big throttle stab. Steep and fast learning curve. Be prepared for the hot gun that thinks they want to challenge the poser in the flared 914.
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76-914
post Oct 16 2017, 06:47 PM
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QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Oct 16 2017, 06:14 AM) *

Be pointed forward when you go for the first big throttle stab. Steep and fast learning curve. Be prepared for the hot gun that thinks they want to challenge the poser in the flared 914.

That won't happen for awhile Kev. Renegade is very explicit about breaking in the clutch sold with that kit. 500 miles of normal stop and go driving before you can punch it. That works out to be about $150-$200 of Petro.
I bought a sand blaster kit recommended by another member about 6 months ago and finally got to use it today. OMG, what a (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sheeplove.gif) difference from that POS HF gun. I purchased a cabinet and gun from HF and that SOB put me in a bad mood every time I used it. It had a mind of it's own and would work then not work. I would shake the cabinet, change media, cuss, threaten it, pray, stir the sand, unclog the pick up tube, take the gun a part, you name it. This kit was made to modify the HF set up (you think they know it is a POS) and came with a big pick up hose, a beefy pick up tube and larger pistol with 3 different size metal tips. IIRC, it was about $60 and worth every penny. All it does is work, very well, every time you pull the trigger. To give you and idea, in 20 minutes of cleaning this afternoon I've blown the paint off the back wall of the cabinet. It never came off in the 2 years that I used it with HF's gun. Life is once again good! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) A pic showing 5 minutes work. Only did 1/2 of each piece to illustrate.

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ValcoOscar
post Oct 16 2017, 07:53 PM
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QUOTE(76-914 @ Oct 16 2017, 05:47 PM) *

QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Oct 16 2017, 06:14 AM) *

Be pointed forward when you go for the first big throttle stab. Steep and fast learning curve. Be prepared for the hot gun that thinks they want to challenge the poser in the flared 914.

That won't happen for awhile Kev. Renegade is very explicit about breaking in the clutch sold with that kit. 500 miles of normal stop and go driving before you can punch it. That works out to be about $150-$200 of Petro.
I bought a sand blaster kit recommended by another member about 6 months ago and finally got to use it today. OMG, what a (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sheeplove.gif) difference from that POS HF gun. I purchased a cabinet and gun from HF and that SOB put me in a bad mood every time I used it. It had a mind of it's own and would work then not work. I would shake the cabinet, change media, cuss, threaten it, pray, stir the sand, unclog the pick up tube, take the gun a part, you name it. This kit was made to modify the HF set up (you think they know it is a POS) and came with a big pick up hose, a beefy pick up tube and larger pistol with 3 different size metal tips. IIRC, it was about $60 and worth every penny. All it does is work, very well, every time you pull the trigger. To give you and idea, in 20 minutes of cleaning this afternoon I've blown the paint off the back wall of the cabinet. It never came off in the 2 years that I used it with HF's gun. Life is once again good! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) A pic showing 5 minutes work. Only did 1/2 of each piece to illustrate.

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Great job Kent...let me know if you need help blasting larger pieces. Just hit me up so we can coordinate. I usually run garnet for steel or glass bead for Alum and Stainless.

Oscar
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post Oct 16 2017, 08:02 PM
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"Mr. Ugly" was staring back at you?







Looks like a fun project, Kent!!!! Good luck with it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)
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76-914
post Oct 18 2017, 08:17 PM
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I tried to install these today but their appx 1" longer than the opening. Did the 70 model have a different size guard or did they not have them, period? TIA, Kent

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post Oct 18 2017, 08:58 PM
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327 is a great SBC choice in a 914. Good power, not too torquey. I put 225lb springs on the rear of mine and it felt great. It was super predictable and always "set" in the corners exactly the same. This car will be a blast! Just throw the wheels away. They are super ugly.
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Chris914n6
post Oct 18 2017, 11:29 PM
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QUOTE(76-914 @ Oct 18 2017, 07:17 PM) *

I tried to install these today but their appx 1" longer than the opening. Did the 70 model have a different size guard or did they not have them, period? TIA, Kent

Early cars had a brush. 914rubber had talked about making them.
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Cracker
post Oct 19 2017, 04:26 AM
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Welcome to the World of fun 914's Kent...nothin' like na torque and sound! Enjoy!

Tony
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barefoot
post Oct 19 2017, 05:43 AM
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. While I was at it I did the same on the left side and for a gash on the rear trunk lid. That spot will be covered by a Ducktail spoiler so it will probably just get some bondo filler later.
[/quote]

for a V8 you may want a more aggressive spoiler like the one i have for sale in the WTB forum.

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