My '70 V-8 Assembly Thread, a few updates and pic's Options

[76-914]

[quote name='Mike Bellis' date='Oct 18 2017, 07:58 PM' post='2539207']
327 is a great SBC choice in a 914. Good power, not too torquey. I put 225lb springs on the rear of mine and it felt great. It was super predictable and always "set" in the corners exactly the same. This car will be a blast! Just throw the wheels away. They are super ugly.
[/quote]
I haven't checked the spring rate yet but good to know 225# are good. I can't see the wheels from the drivers seat so I'm good with the look. The tire options are many, now.
[quote name='Chris914n6' date='Oct 18 2017, 10:29 PM' post='2539251']
[quote name='76-914' post='2539195' date='Oct 18 2017, 07:17 PM']
I tried to install these today but their appx 1" longer than the opening. Did the 70 model have a different size guard or did they not have them, period? TIA, Kent
[/quote]
Early cars had a brush. 914rubber had talked about making them.
Thx Chris. This body style is new to me.
[/quote][quote name='Cracker' date='Oct 19 2017, 03:26 AM' post='2539271']
Welcome to the World of fun 914's Kent...nothin' like na torque and sound! Enjoy!

Tony
When I was a kid I'd clip Playing Cards to my bicycle fender so the spokes would make a faux motor sound. So the sound just may become addictive. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)
[/quote][quote name='barefoot' date='Oct 19 2017, 04:43 AM' post='2539287']
. While I was at it I did the same on the left side and for a gash on the rear trunk lid. That spot will be covered by a Ducktail spoiler so it will probably just get some bondo filler later.
[/quote]

for a V8 you may want a more aggressive spoiler like the one i have for sale in the WTB forum.


[/quote]
I would if I drove like Tony. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

[Andyrew]

I had 225's on mine as well, even had 275's for a while and felt they were fine. Currently have 225's on mine with the 4 and like it.


For a street car anything from 180-225 should work just fine.

[whitetwinturbo]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) ..and who makes that "better" media blaster?
Great work!

[76-914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) ..and who makes that "better" media blaster?
Great work!

Here you go. HF must have complained because they're no longer "called out" in this ad. However, if you read the comments below the ad, several satisfied customers mention that their HF blasting cabinets were total transformed into functioning cabinets. Order the catalog; it's free. They are an Internet Body Shop supply. They currently have a sale going on.
http://www.tptools.com/USA-Cabinet-Gun-and-Pickup-Tube-Upgrade-Kit,2320.html?b=d*8012!r*PriceRange*%2460+-+%2499.99

[76-914]

I'm working on "how to" use the existing 914 throttle cable. I fished the cable reasonably close to the carb to see if it would reach. There wasn't any place to connect the cable on the carb linkage so I drilled out that small tab that is bent at a 45 degree angle then straightened that tab out to accept the barrel adapter that I had laying around.



After fitting the barrel to the linkage I cut the end off the cable and fit it inside the barrel.



Next I heated that stiff plastic sheathing to bend it towards the carb.



I made this bracket to hold the cable in place. I couldn't bend this bracket to 90 degrees or the barrel would contact it before it reached maximum pull i.e. full throttle but at this angle the cable was pointing up and would bind.



I placed another bend in the bracket to level it out. seems to line up alright so next step is to remove this old cable and replace it with a new one.

[76-914]

Finally got a chance to work on Red today. Finished mounting the radiator but still need to fab the plenum and mount the fans. That'll have to wait until I get up to Aircraft Spruce for some aluminum. Guess I should start plumbing it in the meantime. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)





Installed some of the "Bling" that came with the car





My clutch pedal now stands on it's own since I connected the clutch





And my acellarator now functions. The old cable was toast so I put a new one in. I used one that I had ordered for Kugal when I converted it to a Suby 6 but they made it wrong so they gave it to me. Well guess what; it fit Red perfectly. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) The only thing I need to do now is attach the pedal but that would just be in the way at this stage.

[76-914]

Made the rough cut templates out of cardboard. They give me a general idea of the size to cut the second set out of poster board which is easier to bend and fit.





Then the poster board templates are fit and trimmed.





Bottom piece checked in place



Then the sides and top pieces are cut, trimmed and clecoed in place





Next I riveted the bottom to the frame but can't rivet the remaining pieces in because the right side headlight harness passes thru and I haven't checked out the electrical yet.



Reinstalled the radiator to check fit

[76-914]

The side will get a trim flange to fill the void once the side pieces are riveted in place.





A shot from the front

[Andyrew]

Looks good!!!

[bulitt]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

[rhodyguy]

Kent, contact TC914-8 (tony) about the carb linkage in his car. The one he uses solved some issues. Looks real slick too.

[76-914]

Thx Andrew and Bob. When I peel back that protective coating it will really Pop! Hey Kev, I'll see how this works but if it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sheeplove.gif) with me I'll be looking him up. Does he have a build thread I could reference?

[KELTY360]

Also took a good pic of the block casting #

Nice, Kent, a 914 part# on your V-8!

[76-914]

Good eye Mark. I totally missed that. Now where was I? Oh yes, so that's a far as I can go with the plenum until I can get the electrical to the horns and running lights tied in and tested because that harness passes thru the plenum. So it was time to hang those fans. Another good reason to buy the Celica radiator that comes WITH fans. That feature alone will save you 6 hours. I managed to piss off and hour trying to devise a shroud that would mount to the radiator before I pulled my head out of my (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bootyshake.gif) and used the radiator mounts for the shroud as well. Can't believe I didn't see that immediately. I used some 1/4" bolts that came with the car. They do not have a hex head but rather a round thin base. Bob's intention was to weld those to the bottom from which to hang the radiator hoses but I preferred using 6mm SS nuts, bolts and washers like I did on the Suby conversion. The radiator brackets were all on the same vertical plane so it was just a matter of welding one of these threaded pieces to each brace. You can see the top ones but not the bottom where the grey primer is on the bracket.



I took a piece of this 1/8" backer board and pressed it against the bolts until they popped thru to mark their location then laid the fans across the template to check for fit. Looked like everything would mount up OK.




Then I took a piece of .050" aluminum and drilled it to match adding some 3/4" x1/8" filleted (AC grade) angle to stiffen and re-inforce the attach points.







After a quick test fit the shroud was riveted and prepped for painting



Then 2 coats etching primer and 3 coats of paint.

[Blue6]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif)

[Larmo63]

Damn, Kent. That looks pretty good. I have to get myself to Aircraft Spruce to pick up some aluminum to do my oil cooler shrouding.

You're inspiring me...!!!!!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

You might try a German engine in a 914 someday? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hide.gif)

[rhodyguy]

Fast work Kent! Carry on.

[76-914]

Got'a keep moving if I want to sell this thing in time for Spring Fever. One good thing about posting the pic's is you have a chance to review your work. I just noticed that I have my radiator lines bass-akwards. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif) An easy fix no harm done.



While waiting for the paint to dry on the shroud I worked up the courage to remove the windshield. It was held in place by approximately 11 tubes of silicon. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) Once I was able to open up an area large enough to fish a wire through I was able to slice thru it.



This will give you an idea of how much silicon needs to be removed.



I fashioned the scraper out of some 1/2" PVC conduit and gave it an edge.





It works well. I removed about a 3rd of the caulking in 5 minutes as you can see in this pic. There is a small skim coat that remains in the channel so I'm thinking what would be the smart approach to remove it. Maybe a brass bristle roto brush chucked in a drill so the rpm's aren't high enough to bubble the paint Then mask and prime the area if any paint comes of during the process? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[Andyrew]

A chemical might help remove it. There might be something that would lift silicone but not harm the paint. Im thinking maybe Goo-Gone or similar.
Maybe WD-40?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mq2Z-i5Iy7s

Never seen anyone use clear silicone for a window.

[bulitt]

It was a temp install to transport the car 2500 miles. However all I could see was 2500 miles in driving rain resulting in the seats, lower dash, fuse block, and wiring ruined. Problem with silicone is it needs to be really thick around the windshield frame or it won't even contact the windshield. The normal window weld stuff is about 1/8" thick. Sorry Kent, please forgive me!

Thats my story and I'm sticking with it... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)