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> Hot Spark Electronic Ignition, who else has one?
malcolm2
post Oct 18 2017, 06:30 PM
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I went with the Hot Spark that replaces the condenser and the points in the disty. After 38000 miles.... maybe 10000 with a new voltage regulator I determined that my module was seriously acting up. That's all in another thread.

This thread is for helping me make sure I don't have problems down the road, so chime in if you can help.

The manufacturer recommends, actually requires that you only put 13.7 volts at any RPM into their module. So I tested it after I put my spare module on the car.
Attached Image
My 75 L-Jet 1911 cc engine idles perfectly at 950. 1 VOM lead on the coil + the other on ground.

Results of the test are as follows:

voltage at Idle.... 13.9 -14.2 fail (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif)
voltage at 4000 rpm... 13.6 - 13.9 fail (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif)

Hot Spark says to put a 1.4 ohm Ballast Resistor between the module and coil +... Moved the VOM lead to the exit end of the resistor.
Idle....13.9 - 14.2 fail (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif)
4000...13.5 - 13.68 pass (IMG:style_emoticons/default/KMA.gif)

Tried a 5 ohm Ballast Resistor
Idle...13.95 - 14.02 fail
4000...13.57 - 13.61 pass

5 ohm BR and the headlights are ON
Idle...12.28 - 12.32 pass (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif)
4000... 13.29 - 13.31 pass (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif)

Now I can't drive around with my headlights on all the time. 2ndly I would say that the % of idle time is way less than the 3000 to 4000 rpm driving time.

What are your thoughts? Why do I see no change at idle? What else is out there to use instead. This module is only $35 so I figured it was cheap technology. It was simple and maintenance free. Bolt it on and plug it in.
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