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> Direction and Advice to stay "Original", What can be replaced but stay "Original?"
Ruprect006
post Oct 19 2017, 03:29 PM
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I am new to the 914 scene. I am the proud new owner of my uncle's '73 914 2.0. He drove it off the lot and it is all original. It was in storage for 37 years and I just got it out a couple weeks ago and it is now in my garage. It has 15,506 miles on it.

My questions are about what to do now. I don't want to do anything that would hurt the original condition of it and therefore the value.

The first item in question is the fuel system. I took the fuel tank out and there was a hole eaten in the side of it. Fortunately only a little of the "gas/oil/tar" had oozed out. I cleaned up the compartment and it looks good!

So since the tank needs to be replaced, do I just order a reman one and that is okay for staying original?

While the tank is out, should I just clean out the original fuel lines, or is it still considered original if I replace them all with new? And would a set of SS lines from Tangerine Racing be good, or would that be frowned upon as not original?

Haven't touched the fuel filter and pump yet, but same question regarding refurbishing or replacing and not hurting the value.

Thanks for any insights and direction!

Oh, and yes I do have the center caps. In case that sticks out to you in the photo. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

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My 914
post Oct 19 2017, 03:46 PM
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Congratulations!! A low mileage 914 comes out of hibernation.
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mgphoto
post Oct 19 2017, 03:53 PM
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Kiss, keep it stock silly.
Yes update the fuel lines, maybe a 2056 down the line but she has good looking wheels.
Is the paint original? If so DON'T paint it! Buff and polish.
Keep after the little problems that should keep you busy.
She can only be original once.
Might be easier to find a used tank here and have it cleaned.
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GeorgeRud
post Oct 19 2017, 03:58 PM
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You should find a good used tank, have it boiled out and sealed (with an alcohol resistant sealing product). The stainless steel fuel lines are a good safety measure as well and shouldn’t hurt originality.

But most of all, redo the brakes if it’s been sitting that long! New master cylinder, rubber brake lines, and perhaps rebuilt calipers will be worthwhile. Contact PMB for the needed brake parts.
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Coondog
post Oct 19 2017, 04:07 PM
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QUOTE(GeorgeRud @ Oct 19 2017, 02:58 PM) *

You should find a good used tank, have it boiled out and sealed (with an alcohol resistant sealing product). The stainless steel fuel lines are a good safety measure as well and shouldn’t hurt originality.

But most of all, redo the brakes if it’s been sitting that long! New master cylinder, rubber brake lines, and perhaps rebuilt calipers will be worthwhile. Contact PMB for the needed brake parts.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Also new tires, complete tune up to include valve adjust and clean fuel injectors and replace those hoses to. Go one size up on your master cylinder 20mm
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burton73
post Oct 19 2017, 04:08 PM
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Welcome to the 914World. A lot of original cars have what looks like 15,000 or 18,000 miles because they have gone past 99,999. Miles. Cars that where put in storage after 10 years can have 100,000 miles on them easy if they where daily drivers.
My 70 – 6 has 118,000 miles put in storage in 85, my 70 4 cylinder has 115,000 or so going in storage in 85 as well and my original 76 has 118,000 or so now as well not being in storage. The last car was hardly ever driven and shows its original paint and interior as very good shape. No need to paint it or redo the interior. I have papers to back that fact up on the miles.

If you car is a 15,506-mile car it can be very valuable. Any clean original car is valuable.

If your tank has a hole or a leak you can put in a different one that is restored and not affect the value of your car. Even though the car would not be original with SS gas lines I have replaced them that way because these cars have had fires from lines leaking. Do not worry if the fuel filter or the pump is changed as some one could just get a different one later if they where going to show it and needed a 100 pt. car. You should have fule injection on the car as it came from the factory.

Show us some pictures of the car from different angles we can get an idea what the overall condition is of your car.

Some one sold a 75 car at auction that was 3,500 miles or so for a huge amount of money. Make sure that you car is insured with classic car insurance just in case.

Do you have all the books for your car? This helps prove the miles if you ever wanted to sell it. It helps.

You should really enjoy this little car. My uncle had a Volvo p1800 and I remember it well going for rides in it.

Have fun.

Bob B

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burton73
post Oct 19 2017, 04:10 PM
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All what my 914 Brothers said.
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Racer
post Oct 19 2017, 04:27 PM
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Well, whats the plan for the car? If keeping it a timecapsule, litterally do nothing other than maintain its current condition. I know a fella with a 356 speedster that still has the original 1950s tires stored for safe keeping!

no? don't want to be anal and enjoy the car? Then do some things as others have mentioned. Focus on safety first (fuel lines in the tunnel, under the tank and in the engine compartment. Brake lines/calipers.. then figure out how much you want to drive it/maintain it. Some items may start to fail simply from sitting so long and now being used again.. rubber items that age and crack like bushings for instance.

Some parts can be found NOS and others available from a growing cottage industry that supports these cars. Lots of folks in Florida as well who no doubt would be kind enough to help you out if you need it.
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turbonet
post Oct 19 2017, 04:31 PM
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If its reversible it doesn't matter. Keep your original parts.
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DM_2000
post Oct 19 2017, 04:53 PM
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Photo document the car and save every old part you replace, this builds the cars history. Also, write down the cars prior history. Why was the car parked? Do you have any past service records? All of this matters a lot.

About 20 years ago I looked at a super low mile in storage forever 914 that still had the original tires. I told the owner to save all parts including tires to bolster the low mile claim.

Before doing much of anything else, formulate a plan to recommission the car. Just getting the engine going again will take some planning. ( RE replacing all rubber fuel hoses )

Be very careful of too much cleaning, you can't easily duplicate patina that is consistent with a well cared for older car. RE: Original paint with a few flaws is far better than a perfect repaint as one can't tell previous condition.

Also, what is your mechanical ability and level of shop tools?
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kahluver
post Oct 19 2017, 09:30 PM
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I agree with everyone's advice. Keep in mind, your '73 2.0 is the most desirable 914 aside from a 914-6. This combined with the low mileage and 1-family owner will make it very valuable if you ever sell it. Therefore I vote, keep it as original as possible. As one poster stated, a super low mileage '75 just sold for almost $100K this year.

Who know's this could be another $100K 914 one day.

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914_7T3
post Oct 19 2017, 10:28 PM
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Great Original Car! All great advice from the follow up Posts.

Post More Pics Please!

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Tom_T
post Oct 20 2017, 01:55 AM
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Well you got a treasure! Congratulations on becoming the next caretaker.

Getting it insured at a Full Appraised "Agreed Value" policy with Hagerty, Grundy, or one of the others that specialize in classic Porsches etc. should be your 1st priority - even sitting as is.

There are several insurers who advertise in the PCA Panorama magazine, & joining PCA is worth the $46 for that excellent magazine alone, in addition to the other member benefits, activities, Porsche parts discounts, etc.

Order a COA from PCNA while your at it (small PCA discount), & hopefully you have the original window sticker from your uncle to send them a copy with your application, since they're notorious for F-ing them up! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

As others said, get documentation to confirm the 15K miles, or whatever it is. At this point even115K would be good, & 15K would be uber-rare.

You'll want to try to find an old school Porsche, VW mechanic near you who is well versed in 914s to help guide you with what to do, & with what parts.

Also as others have said, look at what maintenance items would've been done over time since stored, & do those - primarily the soft rubber parts, hoses & lines which would've been aged by now to where they won't be safe: brake, vacuum & fuel lines, master cylinder & brake caliper seals, etc. Most of these can still be had in stock form (see fuel lines note below).

There is a chance that the tunnel plastic fuel lines may be okay if only 15K miles then stored, but if they need replaced, then the SS ones would be acceptable without damaging originality value. So do them if needed with the Tangerine ones or similar.

The used & reconditioned fuel tank noted by others from another 73 1.7 or 2.0, or a 74 2.0 or 1.8, or earlier 914/4 1.7 would be the way to go, since I'm not aware of any repro tank anyway. Check the mesh fuel "sock" at the tank outlet too, & replace if necessary.

I think that you can get the square box type fuel filters still from VW parts suppliers, & IIRC GoWesty carries them for the early aircooled Vanagon 2.0s & late Bay Window 1.6 & 2.0 Vans.

Once all rubber lines & the tank etc. are refitted, then just try the fuel pump, as it may be fine, or may just need a flushing of the old fuel & "varnish" or sludge from the old fuel. It may not need to be replaced. If you need to replace it, then hopefully you can find an NOS correct 3-port pump, or a good used or rebuilt one.

Don't try to start the engine nor drive the car until all of the recommissioning items are done, new fluids all around, etc

Depending on when your 73 was built, it could have 1 or 2 Recalls on it, that I'm betting weren't done since it was driven so little then stored (if 15K). If either or both were never done, then Porsche will still need to do them at their cost, but you'll need to call PCNA to arrange for one of their Service DMs to come out to your place to inspect the car, then will schedule you for the repair(s).

1. - ALL 914s are subject to the HO Recall, which replaces the cloth covered fuel lines with rubber exterior ones, & replaces the "T" shaped battery cover with a full battery rectangular cover.

2. - The 73s up to about December 1972 production dates +/- are also subject to the BO Recall, which involves inspecting that the correct "hub-centric" wheels were fitted on the car, which have a groove of inset around the inside of the center hole to seat properly on the new-for-73-MY self-centering front hubs. The proper wheels will end in a xxxx.01 part number on the back, the wrong ones with xxxx.00.

Another item you may want to do, which was the subject of a Porsche Service Bulletin, is the relocation of the fuel pump from the mid-engine compartment, up to the front of the car up behind the steering rack cover plate, just below the fuel tank compartment & just to the right/passenger side of the round portal in the front firewall where the fuel lines from the tunnel daylight. Auto Atlanta sells a FP relocation kit which is essentially the same as what the factory supplied to the dealers to move the pump. It was done to eliminate vapor lock due to the pump & lines getting too hot in the engine compartment, & applies to ALL 70-74 914s of both 4 & 6 flavors (the factory relocated them to the front for 75-76 MYs & changed to a 2-port pump to solve that problem). You'll want to do the fix as per the Service Bulletin, & not some of the other alternatives which others have done on here, in order to preserve it's originality.

If/when the Heat Exchanger/Exhaust Pipes (HE) need replacing, then you'll probably have to use the SSI stainless steel HEs, but you can have them painted in the Porsche Exhaust Grey color to look closer to OE. Dansk makes/sells those & the 2.0 "Banana" Muffler replacements as the current OEM, & they're also sold through other Porsche dealers & parts retailers. There's an outside chance that you may find either in an NOS from somebody, but few & far between.

Tires will be another issue, since the Michelin XAS 165HR15 tires are tube type, as are IIRC the Pirelli of the day, & they're pricey; while there is a non-period Blockley 165HR15 with the dog-bone tread pattern very similar to the Dunlop SP57s & Semperit M401/M501 tires of the day. Try Lucas Tires in Long Beach CA online, & note that any tire which you can find on their UK sister company Longstone Tyre can be brought here by Lucas. I think I'd stick with one of those 3 tires, given your extremely low mile & original 914, but you can read through the Wheels & Tires nailed thread in the Originality & History (O&H) Forum on here.

These recall, service bulletin & substituted parts items are generally considered acceptable for originality.

There are also lots of other good guidance in the O&H under nailed threads, including the tires & wheels, "The few, the rare..." (on all original cars - get pix of yours on there too), "The Legend of the 914S", etc. which will help guide you. Other good resources include Jeff Bowlsby's Classic 914 website, & p914.com (& .net & .org).

Do a good deal of research to see what is original on your car, before you start mucking around, so that you know what to keep & what not.

Also, keep that beauty garaged & out of the hurricane/tornado/T-storm flood waters/winds/etc. down there in the FL Panhandle.

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Good Luck! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
Tom
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Ruprect006
post Oct 25 2017, 11:03 PM
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I am sorry for the delay in this post. I had some work stuff come up and got stuck out of town.

So, Wow! Thank y'all for the comments and insights! That helped me with what to do next.

I ordered the first round of parts. I have a reman fuel tank, new sending unit, gaskets, fuel screen strainer, fuel tank seals large and small, gas cap, SS lines kit, lower and upper fuel line kits, fuel filter, fuel pump, sway bar bushing set, and bosch wiper blades all due to show up tomorrow or Friday for installation this weekend.

I was able to talk with my uncle briefly and get a little more information. While the car is very original and confirmed only the 15,506 miles, apparently they put custom Scheel seats in it. My aunt also designed and my uncle installed more gauges in the vertical console. Please see the pictures.

I'm adding several pics so y'all can get an idea of what she looks like.

Pictures:
1. Dirty right after rolling out of storage. Correction it was 38 years.
2. Front trunk had car cover and bra for the front.
3. Tire depth left on original tires before changing for new pirelli set
4. Dash and mileage
5. Console and gauges
6. Scheel Seats
7. Before and after chrome scrubbing
8. Underbody
9. Tank out
10. Front trunk area
11. tank area
12. driver's side
13. engine bay (Engine bad cover we believe is in the trunk. Don't have keys yet to confirm.)
14. hell hole

So my next question would be what else needs to be replaced? What else is rubber that should probably go? Other hoses? Vacuum lines? Seals? Bushings?

Regarding brakes, do you think flushing the lines would be good enough, or do calipers and such need to be rebuilt?

Thanks!
Rup


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thelogo
post Oct 25 2017, 11:17 PM
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Be smart about this now


Drop the 2.0 og f.i engine
Refresh it so it looks clean and new


Also remove the odometer.



Buy a big 4 engine, with webbers install drive
The hell out of it have fun , while doing absoultely no
mods to the car (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)


Then when your ready to sell for big dollars
Put that fresh 2.0 in there



What ever engine you get working
I would just recommend much more detailed maintence
Then modern cars because when your driving a 914
The car just has so much agility that you had better be
Sure everything is working in concert

Not driveing it is a waste no matter how low the mileage


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jd74914
post Oct 26 2017, 12:19 AM
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Sweet seats! If you're wanting to go back to stock myself, and others here, would be interested in them. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

The car looks like its in great shape-very nice.
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ConeDodger
post Oct 26 2017, 09:41 AM
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Those seats are possibly Koenig. Worth a small fortune but not original. Look for a crown logo on the button sewn into the seat back. They are period correct and hard to find. I’ve seen as high as $600 each for them.
The steering wheel is of course not original.
The appearance group gauge group is of course not original.
If your uncle documented the modifications it’s a plus.
That car with that mileage if it can be documented as accurate, would sell for lots of money in the condition you rolled it out of storage.

Where’s Pat Garvey? He’d tell you you can’t change the air in the tires without ruining the originality! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/evilgrin.gif)

Find a used tank. New ones are not going to be faithfully original. Bdstone914 here will have a decent one for you.
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mbseto
post Oct 26 2017, 10:35 AM
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She cleaned up nice!
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Ruprect006
post Oct 26 2017, 10:57 AM
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QUOTE(ConeDodger @ Oct 26 2017, 10:41 AM) *

Those seats are possibly Koenig. Worth a small fortune but not original. Look for a crown logo on the button sewn into the seat back. They are period correct and hard to find. I’ve seen as high as $600 each for them.
The steering wheel is of course not original.
The appearance group gauge group is of course not original.
If your uncle documented the modifications it’s a plus.
That car with that mileage if it can be documented as accurate, would sell for lots of money in the condition you rolled it out of storage.

Where’s Pat Garvey? He’d tell you you can’t change the air in the tires without ruining the originality! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/evilgrin.gif)

Find a used tank. New ones are not going to be faithfully original. Bdstone914 here will have a decent one for you.



The seats say Scheel on them. Apparently they are now Scheel-Mann
/http://scheel-mann.com/

I don't know what all info my uncle has yet as he lives halfway across the country. (hence the cars being left in storage 38 years) I know he said he has manuals and such, so we'll see what all he's got as soon as I can.

Regarding documenting mileage. He was the original owner and signed the title document stating the mileage is accurate. If he doesn't have additional documents, how do I document it? Realistically, anyone who looks at this car in person would agree it is accurate, but.....

Regarding the tank, as I said above, a reman one with lots of other parts just delivered to the house today.
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Ruprect006
post Oct 26 2017, 10:58 AM
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QUOTE(mbseto @ Oct 26 2017, 11:35 AM) *

She cleaned up nice!


Thanks! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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