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Ruprect006
I am new to the 914 scene. I am the proud new owner of my uncle's '73 914 2.0. He drove it off the lot and it is all original. It was in storage for 37 years and I just got it out a couple weeks ago and it is now in my garage. It has 15,506 miles on it.

My questions are about what to do now. I don't want to do anything that would hurt the original condition of it and therefore the value.

The first item in question is the fuel system. I took the fuel tank out and there was a hole eaten in the side of it. Fortunately only a little of the "gas/oil/tar" had oozed out. I cleaned up the compartment and it looks good!

So since the tank needs to be replaced, do I just order a reman one and that is okay for staying original?

While the tank is out, should I just clean out the original fuel lines, or is it still considered original if I replace them all with new? And would a set of SS lines from Tangerine Racing be good, or would that be frowned upon as not original?

Haven't touched the fuel filter and pump yet, but same question regarding refurbishing or replacing and not hurting the value.

Thanks for any insights and direction!

Oh, and yes I do have the center caps. In case that sticks out to you in the photo. smile.gif

Click to view attachment

My 914
Congratulations!! A low mileage 914 comes out of hibernation.
mgphoto
Kiss, keep it stock silly.
Yes update the fuel lines, maybe a 2056 down the line but she has good looking wheels.
Is the paint original? If so DON'T paint it! Buff and polish.
Keep after the little problems that should keep you busy.
She can only be original once.
Might be easier to find a used tank here and have it cleaned.
GeorgeRud
You should find a good used tank, have it boiled out and sealed (with an alcohol resistant sealing product). The stainless steel fuel lines are a good safety measure as well and shouldn’t hurt originality.

But most of all, redo the brakes if it’s been sitting that long! New master cylinder, rubber brake lines, and perhaps rebuilt calipers will be worthwhile. Contact PMB for the needed brake parts.
Coondog
QUOTE(GeorgeRud @ Oct 19 2017, 02:58 PM) *

You should find a good used tank, have it boiled out and sealed (with an alcohol resistant sealing product). The stainless steel fuel lines are a good safety measure as well and shouldn’t hurt originality.

But most of all, redo the brakes if it’s been sitting that long! New master cylinder, rubber brake lines, and perhaps rebuilt calipers will be worthwhile. Contact PMB for the needed brake parts.


agree.gif agree.gif agree.gif agree.gif Also new tires, complete tune up to include valve adjust and clean fuel injectors and replace those hoses to. Go one size up on your master cylinder 20mm
burton73
Welcome to the 914World. A lot of original cars have what looks like 15,000 or 18,000 miles because they have gone past 99,999. Miles. Cars that where put in storage after 10 years can have 100,000 miles on them easy if they where daily drivers.
My 70 – 6 has 118,000 miles put in storage in 85, my 70 4 cylinder has 115,000 or so going in storage in 85 as well and my original 76 has 118,000 or so now as well not being in storage. The last car was hardly ever driven and shows its original paint and interior as very good shape. No need to paint it or redo the interior. I have papers to back that fact up on the miles.

If you car is a 15,506-mile car it can be very valuable. Any clean original car is valuable.

If your tank has a hole or a leak you can put in a different one that is restored and not affect the value of your car. Even though the car would not be original with SS gas lines I have replaced them that way because these cars have had fires from lines leaking. Do not worry if the fuel filter or the pump is changed as some one could just get a different one later if they where going to show it and needed a 100 pt. car. You should have fule injection on the car as it came from the factory.

Show us some pictures of the car from different angles we can get an idea what the overall condition is of your car.

Some one sold a 75 car at auction that was 3,500 miles or so for a huge amount of money. Make sure that you car is insured with classic car insurance just in case.

Do you have all the books for your car? This helps prove the miles if you ever wanted to sell it. It helps.

You should really enjoy this little car. My uncle had a Volvo p1800 and I remember it well going for rides in it.

Have fun.

Bob B

welcome.png
burton73
All what my 914 Brothers said.
Racer
Well, whats the plan for the car? If keeping it a timecapsule, litterally do nothing other than maintain its current condition. I know a fella with a 356 speedster that still has the original 1950s tires stored for safe keeping!

no? don't want to be anal and enjoy the car? Then do some things as others have mentioned. Focus on safety first (fuel lines in the tunnel, under the tank and in the engine compartment. Brake lines/calipers.. then figure out how much you want to drive it/maintain it. Some items may start to fail simply from sitting so long and now being used again.. rubber items that age and crack like bushings for instance.

Some parts can be found NOS and others available from a growing cottage industry that supports these cars. Lots of folks in Florida as well who no doubt would be kind enough to help you out if you need it.
turbonet
If its reversible it doesn't matter. Keep your original parts.
DM_2000
Photo document the car and save every old part you replace, this builds the cars history. Also, write down the cars prior history. Why was the car parked? Do you have any past service records? All of this matters a lot.

About 20 years ago I looked at a super low mile in storage forever 914 that still had the original tires. I told the owner to save all parts including tires to bolster the low mile claim.

Before doing much of anything else, formulate a plan to recommission the car. Just getting the engine going again will take some planning. ( RE replacing all rubber fuel hoses )

Be very careful of too much cleaning, you can't easily duplicate patina that is consistent with a well cared for older car. RE: Original paint with a few flaws is far better than a perfect repaint as one can't tell previous condition.

Also, what is your mechanical ability and level of shop tools?
kahluver
I agree with everyone's advice. Keep in mind, your '73 2.0 is the most desirable 914 aside from a 914-6. This combined with the low mileage and 1-family owner will make it very valuable if you ever sell it. Therefore I vote, keep it as original as possible. As one poster stated, a super low mileage '75 just sold for almost $100K this year.

Who know's this could be another $100K 914 one day.

914_7T3
Great Original Car! All great advice from the follow up Posts.

Post More Pics Please!

welcome.png
Tom_T
Well you got a treasure! Congratulations on becoming the next caretaker.

Getting it insured at a Full Appraised "Agreed Value" policy with Hagerty, Grundy, or one of the others that specialize in classic Porsches etc. should be your 1st priority - even sitting as is.

There are several insurers who advertise in the PCA Panorama magazine, & joining PCA is worth the $46 for that excellent magazine alone, in addition to the other member benefits, activities, Porsche parts discounts, etc.

Order a COA from PCNA while your at it (small PCA discount), & hopefully you have the original window sticker from your uncle to send them a copy with your application, since they're notorious for F-ing them up! dry.gif

As others said, get documentation to confirm the 15K miles, or whatever it is. At this point even115K would be good, & 15K would be uber-rare.

You'll want to try to find an old school Porsche, VW mechanic near you who is well versed in 914s to help guide you with what to do, & with what parts.

Also as others have said, look at what maintenance items would've been done over time since stored, & do those - primarily the soft rubber parts, hoses & lines which would've been aged by now to where they won't be safe: brake, vacuum & fuel lines, master cylinder & brake caliper seals, etc. Most of these can still be had in stock form (see fuel lines note below).

There is a chance that the tunnel plastic fuel lines may be okay if only 15K miles then stored, but if they need replaced, then the SS ones would be acceptable without damaging originality value. So do them if needed with the Tangerine ones or similar.

The used & reconditioned fuel tank noted by others from another 73 1.7 or 2.0, or a 74 2.0 or 1.8, or earlier 914/4 1.7 would be the way to go, since I'm not aware of any repro tank anyway. Check the mesh fuel "sock" at the tank outlet too, & replace if necessary.

I think that you can get the square box type fuel filters still from VW parts suppliers, & IIRC GoWesty carries them for the early aircooled Vanagon 2.0s & late Bay Window 1.6 & 2.0 Vans.

Once all rubber lines & the tank etc. are refitted, then just try the fuel pump, as it may be fine, or may just need a flushing of the old fuel & "varnish" or sludge from the old fuel. It may not need to be replaced. If you need to replace it, then hopefully you can find an NOS correct 3-port pump, or a good used or rebuilt one.

Don't try to start the engine nor drive the car until all of the recommissioning items are done, new fluids all around, etc

Depending on when your 73 was built, it could have 1 or 2 Recalls on it, that I'm betting weren't done since it was driven so little then stored (if 15K). If either or both were never done, then Porsche will still need to do them at their cost, but you'll need to call PCNA to arrange for one of their Service DMs to come out to your place to inspect the car, then will schedule you for the repair(s).

1. - ALL 914s are subject to the HO Recall, which replaces the cloth covered fuel lines with rubber exterior ones, & replaces the "T" shaped battery cover with a full battery rectangular cover.

2. - The 73s up to about December 1972 production dates +/- are also subject to the BO Recall, which involves inspecting that the correct "hub-centric" wheels were fitted on the car, which have a groove of inset around the inside of the center hole to seat properly on the new-for-73-MY self-centering front hubs. The proper wheels will end in a xxxx.01 part number on the back, the wrong ones with xxxx.00.

Another item you may want to do, which was the subject of a Porsche Service Bulletin, is the relocation of the fuel pump from the mid-engine compartment, up to the front of the car up behind the steering rack cover plate, just below the fuel tank compartment & just to the right/passenger side of the round portal in the front firewall where the fuel lines from the tunnel daylight. Auto Atlanta sells a FP relocation kit which is essentially the same as what the factory supplied to the dealers to move the pump. It was done to eliminate vapor lock due to the pump & lines getting too hot in the engine compartment, & applies to ALL 70-74 914s of both 4 & 6 flavors (the factory relocated them to the front for 75-76 MYs & changed to a 2-port pump to solve that problem). You'll want to do the fix as per the Service Bulletin, & not some of the other alternatives which others have done on here, in order to preserve it's originality.

If/when the Heat Exchanger/Exhaust Pipes (HE) need replacing, then you'll probably have to use the SSI stainless steel HEs, but you can have them painted in the Porsche Exhaust Grey color to look closer to OE. Dansk makes/sells those & the 2.0 "Banana" Muffler replacements as the current OEM, & they're also sold through other Porsche dealers & parts retailers. There's an outside chance that you may find either in an NOS from somebody, but few & far between.

Tires will be another issue, since the Michelin XAS 165HR15 tires are tube type, as are IIRC the Pirelli of the day, & they're pricey; while there is a non-period Blockley 165HR15 with the dog-bone tread pattern very similar to the Dunlop SP57s & Semperit M401/M501 tires of the day. Try Lucas Tires in Long Beach CA online, & note that any tire which you can find on their UK sister company Longstone Tyre can be brought here by Lucas. I think I'd stick with one of those 3 tires, given your extremely low mile & original 914, but you can read through the Wheels & Tires nailed thread in the Originality & History (O&H) Forum on here.

These recall, service bulletin & substituted parts items are generally considered acceptable for originality.

There are also lots of other good guidance in the O&H under nailed threads, including the tires & wheels, "The few, the rare..." (on all original cars - get pix of yours on there too), "The Legend of the 914S", etc. which will help guide you. Other good resources include Jeff Bowlsby's Classic 914 website, & p914.com (& .net & .org).

Do a good deal of research to see what is original on your car, before you start mucking around, so that you know what to keep & what not.

Also, keep that beauty garaged & out of the hurricane/tornado/T-storm flood waters/winds/etc. down there in the FL Panhandle.

welcome.png

Good Luck! beerchug.gif
Tom
///////

Ruprect006
I am sorry for the delay in this post. I had some work stuff come up and got stuck out of town.

So, Wow! Thank y'all for the comments and insights! That helped me with what to do next.

I ordered the first round of parts. I have a reman fuel tank, new sending unit, gaskets, fuel screen strainer, fuel tank seals large and small, gas cap, SS lines kit, lower and upper fuel line kits, fuel filter, fuel pump, sway bar bushing set, and bosch wiper blades all due to show up tomorrow or Friday for installation this weekend.

I was able to talk with my uncle briefly and get a little more information. While the car is very original and confirmed only the 15,506 miles, apparently they put custom Scheel seats in it. My aunt also designed and my uncle installed more gauges in the vertical console. Please see the pictures.

I'm adding several pics so y'all can get an idea of what she looks like.

Pictures:
1. Dirty right after rolling out of storage. Correction it was 38 years.
2. Front trunk had car cover and bra for the front.
3. Tire depth left on original tires before changing for new pirelli set
4. Dash and mileage
5. Console and gauges
6. Scheel Seats
7. Before and after chrome scrubbing
8. Underbody
9. Tank out
10. Front trunk area
11. tank area
12. driver's side
13. engine bay (Engine bad cover we believe is in the trunk. Don't have keys yet to confirm.)
14. hell hole

So my next question would be what else needs to be replaced? What else is rubber that should probably go? Other hoses? Vacuum lines? Seals? Bushings?

Regarding brakes, do you think flushing the lines would be good enough, or do calipers and such need to be rebuilt?

Thanks!
Rup
thelogo
Be smart about this now


Drop the 2.0 og f.i engine
Refresh it so it looks clean and new


Also remove the odometer.



Buy a big 4 engine, with webbers install drive
The hell out of it have fun , while doing absoultely no
mods to the car pray.gif


Then when your ready to sell for big dollars
Put that fresh 2.0 in there



What ever engine you get working
I would just recommend much more detailed maintence
Then modern cars because when your driving a 914
The car just has so much agility that you had better be
Sure everything is working in concert

Not driveing it is a waste no matter how low the mileage


jd74914
Sweet seats! If you're wanting to go back to stock myself, and others here, would be interested in them. smile.gif

The car looks like its in great shape-very nice.
ConeDodger
Those seats are possibly Koenig. Worth a small fortune but not original. Look for a crown logo on the button sewn into the seat back. They are period correct and hard to find. I’ve seen as high as $600 each for them.
The steering wheel is of course not original.
The appearance group gauge group is of course not original.
If your uncle documented the modifications it’s a plus.
That car with that mileage if it can be documented as accurate, would sell for lots of money in the condition you rolled it out of storage.

Where’s Pat Garvey? He’d tell you you can’t change the air in the tires without ruining the originality! evilgrin.gif

Find a used tank. New ones are not going to be faithfully original. Bdstone914 here will have a decent one for you.
mbseto
She cleaned up nice!
Ruprect006
QUOTE(ConeDodger @ Oct 26 2017, 10:41 AM) *

Those seats are possibly Koenig. Worth a small fortune but not original. Look for a crown logo on the button sewn into the seat back. They are period correct and hard to find. I’ve seen as high as $600 each for them.
The steering wheel is of course not original.
The appearance group gauge group is of course not original.
If your uncle documented the modifications it’s a plus.
That car with that mileage if it can be documented as accurate, would sell for lots of money in the condition you rolled it out of storage.

Where’s Pat Garvey? He’d tell you you can’t change the air in the tires without ruining the originality! evilgrin.gif

Find a used tank. New ones are not going to be faithfully original. Bdstone914 here will have a decent one for you.



The seats say Scheel on them. Apparently they are now Scheel-Mann
/http://scheel-mann.com/

I don't know what all info my uncle has yet as he lives halfway across the country. (hence the cars being left in storage 38 years) I know he said he has manuals and such, so we'll see what all he's got as soon as I can.

Regarding documenting mileage. He was the original owner and signed the title document stating the mileage is accurate. If he doesn't have additional documents, how do I document it? Realistically, anyone who looks at this car in person would agree it is accurate, but.....

Regarding the tank, as I said above, a reman one with lots of other parts just delivered to the house today.
Ruprect006
QUOTE(mbseto @ Oct 26 2017, 11:35 AM) *

She cleaned up nice!


Thanks! smile.gif
Ruprect006
QUOTE(jd74914 @ Oct 26 2017, 01:19 AM) *

Sweet seats! If you're wanting to go back to stock myself, and others here, would be interested in them. smile.gif

The car looks like its in great shape-very nice.



Thanks! I'll keep that in mind.
Ruprect006
QUOTE(mgphoto @ Oct 19 2017, 04:53 PM) *

Kiss, keep it stock silly.
Yes update the fuel lines, maybe a 2056 down the line but she has good looking wheels.
Is the paint original? If so DON'T paint it! Buff and polish.
Keep after the little problems that should keep you busy.
She can only be original once.
Might be easier to find a used tank here and have it cleaned.



Paint is original. I have only washed it with soap and water so far. Haven't given a full detail yet, but expect it will be amazing once I do.
Ruprect006
QUOTE(GeorgeRud @ Oct 19 2017, 04:58 PM) *

You should find a good used tank, have it boiled out and sealed (with an alcohol resistant sealing product). The stainless steel fuel lines are a good safety measure as well and shouldn’t hurt originality.

But most of all, redo the brakes if it’s been sitting that long! New master cylinder, rubber brake lines, and perhaps rebuilt calipers will be worthwhile. Contact PMB for the needed brake parts.



Thanks for the info! I'll be checking the brake systems this weekend and will order whatever needed. Thank you for the lead on the parts from PMB.
www.pmbperformance.com Brake Parts
JeffBowlsby
Cool find, congrats! The silver cars are a stunning 914 color. I would make every effort to keep this one original also. Or rather return it to original condition as much as possible, because there are already a number of non-original thing about it. How about that hood badge and all the dash switches?

Clean it and clean it some more before you do much more.

Tom - Service Bulletin 213 for the fuel vapor lock condition is on my website, but it does not relocate the fuel pump, and I have not seen a factory service bulletin or recall campaign to relocate the fuel pump for the 1970-74 cars. Can you post it if you have it? I don't think it exists.

What are all those gauges in the center console? I see all non-stock gauges:

Amps
Volts
Oil pressure?
Oil temp
Clock
?
Outside Air Temperature?

arne
Top to bottom, left to right, to me the gauges look like:

Ammeter, voltmeter, oil temp, oil pressure, clock, vacuum/boost, outside temp.
DM_2000
QUOTE(Ruprect006 @ Oct 26 2017, 12:57 PM) *


Regarding documenting mileage. He was the original owner and signed the title document stating the mileage is accurate. If he doesn't have additional documents, how do I document it? Realistically, anyone who looks at this car in person would agree it is accurate, but.....


Be sure to make a copy of the original title.

Are there any service records? This would verify miles.

DM_2000
QUOTE(thelogo @ Oct 26 2017, 01:17 AM) *


Also remove the odometer.




Nothing like a bit of fraud. . .Fail. . .
914_7T3
As a fellow '73 2.0 owner and proponent of originality, I have previously acquired a duplicate set of date stamped 1973 gauges with a corresponding wiring harness.

My plan was to hoard them just in case I ever needed them, but would like to offer them up for sale to you. Even the clock is working and keeps perfect time. Bought them from someone who stored them in tubs for over 30 years after the car was long gone.

If you are interested please PM me.


beerchug.gif
thelogo
QUOTE(DM_2000 @ Oct 26 2017, 04:14 PM) *

QUOTE(thelogo @ Oct 26 2017, 01:17 AM) *


Also remove the odometer.




Nothing like a bit of fraud. . .Fail. . .





What's mine is mine.
And
This is what happens when you fuuuck
A stranger in the ass

Walter from the big lebowski
KELTY360
QUOTE(thelogo @ Oct 26 2017, 07:20 PM) *

QUOTE(DM_2000 @ Oct 26 2017, 04:14 PM) *

QUOTE(thelogo @ Oct 26 2017, 01:17 AM) *


Also remove the odometer.




Nothing like a bit of fraud. . .Fail. . .





What's mine is mine.
And
This is what happens when you fuuuck
A stranger in the ass

Walter from the big lebowski


Do you ever have anything relevant to say?
RickS
“I don't want to do anything that would hurt the original condition of it and therefore the value.”

All original cars are just that, completely original with all the parts they were delivered with. Most haven’t been on the road in decades and look rather beaten. They call it the Preservation Class and they fetch top dollar.

Since your car is not completely original; steering wheel, gauges, console gauges, seats and who knows what else, you can feel free to continue to modify it with easily reversible mods or remove the mods and restore back to original. Because the car is not original (all original stuff) the value has already taken a hit, so either make it a better car or restore to ‘like’ original.
Cairo94507
That's a terrific car. I wish I had it. It would go back to 100% stock. Good luck and have fun. Cheers. beerchug.gif
Larmo63
I have the same Scheel seats. They are valuable, and a nice "period correct" mod. Keep those for now.

The center console gauges are a bit goofy, but it looks like your Uncle was kind of a 914 enthusiast. Go carefully and respectfully through what his original ideas for the car were, and then put your own dose of love onto/into it.

LET THE POWER BE WITH YOU.
burton73
QUOTE(Ruprect006 @ Oct 26 2017, 10:13 AM) *

QUOTE(jd74914 @ Oct 26 2017, 01:19 AM) *

Sweet seats! If you're wanting to go back to stock myself, and others here, would be interested in them. smile.gif

The car looks like its in great shape-very nice.



Thanks! I'll keep that in mind.


I also have the same Scheel seat from my 6 and do not let the guys make you think that the seats are only worth $1,200. One seat is on EBay in bad shape for $2,900 even thought he has not been able to sell it for a long time. I saw them go for $700. 10 years ago in very bad shape. I want to point out that, as an original paint 76 when you detail your car be carful that you do not rub too much on the stickers in the door jam or you can remove the paint code on the silver sticker in the driver’s doorjamb. It seems that it was lightly printed on the silver paper sticker. Not the VIN number near the latch but near the drivers door hinge

Bob B

Click to view attachment
Elliot Cannon
This thread led me to think just how much of my car is original. I didn't come up with much. The doors, trailing arms and steering rack. That's about it. biggrin.gif
arne
QUOTE(thelogo @ Oct 25 2017, 10:17 PM) *

Also remove the odometer.

Note to self - never buy anything from thelogo, because you can’t trust anything to be as represented.
Ruprect006
QUOTE(914 7T3 @ Oct 26 2017, 08:42 PM) *

As a fellow '73 2.0 owner and proponent of originality, I have previously acquired a duplicate set of date stamped 1973 gauges with a corresponding wiring harness.

My plan was to hoard them just in case I ever needed them, but would like to offer them up for sale to you. Even the clock is working and keeps perfect time. Bought them from someone who stored them in tubs for over 30 years after the car was long gone.

If you are interested please PM me.


beerchug.gif



I am interested and I tried to PM you, but I don't see where it work. Do you have any pictures, and how much are they?

Thanks! smile.gif
thelogo
QUOTE(arne @ Oct 27 2017, 07:48 AM) *

QUOTE(thelogo @ Oct 25 2017, 10:17 PM) *

Also remove the odometer.

Note to self - never buy anything from thelogo, because you can’t trust anything to be as represented.














Really you flatter me .
I cant help it if im a prince and a great man wub.gif
Garland
I’d leave everything the way it is, just like your uncle modified it for himself. Drive it with him in mind, and then see if you want to change it. What a great experience that first drive will be.

As a pleasure vehicle, couple thousand miles a year, you can have a long future with this car.
Ruprect006
Is there a way to delete or hide not essential comments that just waste space and clutter up a good thread?
76-914
Best advice I can give is to stay the Hell away from me. I’m a 914 rape artist. av-943.gif
ConeDodger
QUOTE(Ruprect006 @ Oct 27 2017, 05:56 PM) *

Is there a way to delete or hide not essential comments that just waste space and clutter up a good thread?


Sadly no.
ConeDodger
You asked how to on documenting the mileage. The best way to do this, is to go to the receipts in the maintenance records. If you have a receipt that says the car had 15,000 miles on it when the oil was changed in 1976, and another receipt it says it had 17,000 miles on it in 1977,And the third receipt says it have 22,000 miles on it in 1978. You see how this goes, you just need something other than your uncle’s story To provide some proof that the mileage isnt just rolled over. This basically how Carfax works as well. If a car has 80k miles on it when it was last smog checked, but the odometer indicates 30k something is fishy.
Another way to prove or suggest proof might be the storage history. Or, the last time the registration was current? My car had an indicated 61K miles and the tags on the plates were 1980. Not proof per se, but It suggests that the mileage is actual. Now it’s 69k miles. It also sits in a storage garage but she comes out to play about twice a week.

By the way, great color! Here’s mine! biggrin.gif mine was very original when I got it. Not so much now...

DM_2000
QUOTE(thelogo @ Oct 26 2017, 10:20 PM) *

QUOTE(DM_2000 @ Oct 26 2017, 04:14 PM) *

QUOTE(thelogo @ Oct 26 2017, 01:17 AM) *


Also remove the odometer.




Nothing like a bit of fraud. . .Fail. . .





What's mine is mine.



Until you go to sell it with altered mileage, then it becomes a federal offense.
914_7T3
QUOTE(Ruprect006 @ Oct 27 2017, 10:44 AM) *

QUOTE(914 7T3 @ Oct 26 2017, 08:42 PM) *

As a fellow '73 2.0 owner and proponent of originality, I have previously acquired a duplicate set of date stamped 1973 gauges with a corresponding wiring harness.

My plan was to hoard them just in case I ever needed them, but would like to offer them up for sale to you. Even the clock is working and keeps perfect time. Bought them from someone who stored them in tubs for over 30 years after the car was long gone.

If you are interested please PM me.


beerchug.gif



I am interested and I tried to PM you, but I don't see where it work. Do you have any pictures, and how much are they?

Thanks! smile.gif


Sent you a PM, but don't think your notification is turned on. You can send an email to jeffreydi26@gmail.com and I'll forward a full set of pics on Saturday. Thanks.

Jeffrey
thelogo
QUOTE(DM_2000 @ Oct 27 2017, 05:26 PM) *

QUOTE(thelogo @ Oct 26 2017, 10:20 PM) *

QUOTE(DM_2000 @ Oct 26 2017, 04:14 PM) *

QUOTE(thelogo @ Oct 26 2017, 01:17 AM) *


Also remove the odometer.




Nothing like a bit of fraud. . .Fail. . .













What's mine is mine.



Until you go to sell it with altered mileage, then it becomes a federal offense.










I bought my teener with the odometer not functioning
With 80 k miles showing
Guy said it had like 90 now .

Not talking ultra low like this one but


I bought the car and it didnt seem like a federal offense ? WTF.gif









Elliot Cannon
QUOTE(Ruprect006 @ Oct 27 2017, 01:56 PM) *

Is there a way to delete or hide not essential comments that just waste space and clutter up a good thread?


WTF.gif If you think a post is not essential and a waste of space, just INGORE the post. Would that be difficult for you? poke.gif
Elliot Cannon
QUOTE(thelogo @ Oct 27 2017, 08:53 PM) *

QUOTE(DM_2000 @ Oct 27 2017, 05:26 PM) *

QUOTE(thelogo @ Oct 26 2017, 10:20 PM) *

QUOTE(DM_2000 @ Oct 26 2017, 04:14 PM) *

QUOTE(thelogo @ Oct 26 2017, 01:17 AM) *


Also remove the odometer.




Nothing like a bit of fraud. . .Fail. . .















What's mine is mine.



Until you go to sell it with altered mileage, then it becomes a federal offense.










I bought my teener with the odometer not functioning
With 80 k miles showing
Guy said it had like 90 now .

Not talking ultra low like this one but


I bought the car and it didnt seem like a federal offense ? WTF.gif



The offense would be if you purposely altered the odometer. You know, like turning it back. I'm not sure if California law requires an properly operating odometer but the next time I'm stopped by the CHP I'll ask the friendly officer. biggrin.gif
EdwardBlume
20+ years ago no one cared about these cars. In 2017 and beyond, they are becoming collector cars, fun ones at that.

I took my Dad's car, he bought in 1976, and did what I wanted. Faster, tighter, lots of feedback. Now that I'm pushing 50, I will take it fairly close back to stock, not it's fairly bland PCA COA stock, but I just don't need the mods based on how I drive it, and there's a true joy in driving an underpowered stock 914. Dad's car its twilight deserves such grace.

That said, I would trade my museum quality steel flared /6 for a street / ax car in a heartbeat, because driving a 914 hard and fast is still quite a thrill. One which I miss.

At the end of the day, do what YOU want to do. Unmolested silver is one of the best 914 colors (next to Olympic Blue), and I purposely avoid seeing Rob's car (ConeDodger) because I'd probably soil myself.



DM_2000
QUOTE(thelogo @ Oct 27 2017, 11:53 PM) *

QUOTE(DM_2000 @ Oct 27 2017, 05:26 PM) *

QUOTE(thelogo @ Oct 26 2017, 10:20 PM) *

QUOTE(DM_2000 @ Oct 26 2017, 04:14 PM) *

QUOTE(thelogo @ Oct 26 2017, 01:17 AM) *


Also remove the odometer.



Nothing like a bit of fraud. . .Fail. . .



What's mine is mine.



Until you go to sell it with altered mileage, then it becomes a federal offense.



I bought my teener with the odometer not functioning
With 80 k miles showing
Guy said it had like 90 now .

Not talking ultra low like this one but

I bought the car and it didnt seem like a federal offense ? WTF.gif



For your car, the seller disclosed TMU ( True Mileage Unknown ) , this is completely legal as the seller was not trying to hide anything.

For the OP's car, you are proposing he drive the car with the ODO purposely disconnected and not inform any future buyer of the TMU status, this is black letter fraud.

Give this guy's radio program a call and see how he reacts. www.handelonthelaw.com/
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