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> Oil Pressure sender hose blew out, need help
Dave_Darling
post Oct 31 2017, 11:03 AM
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Adjust the valves before you do your road test. If it's making a Bug-like clatter, at least check the valve gaps. Re-check after your road test, see if anything has changed. If it has, then your heads need attention ASAP.

--DD
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NeunEinVier
post Oct 31 2017, 11:04 AM
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QUOTE(cuddyk @ Oct 23 2017, 11:41 AM) *

Considering what's included, the price is really reasonable too.
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DM_2000
post Oct 31 2017, 05:00 PM
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QUOTE(rgolia @ Oct 31 2017, 11:46 AM) *

Got oil back in it and fired it up. After a short but painful squeal it fired up and ran.


That's usually a very bad sign, at most an engine with wear will rattle until oil pressure is built up. Did the noise occur during cranking or immediately after the engine fired?

Are you sure the alternator belt is tight? A lose belt will sequel then suddenly get quiet as the battery recharges.

QUOTE(rgolia @ Oct 31 2017, 11:46 AM) *

I let it idle for about 5 mins. Didn't sound bad, but there was what sounded like valve clatter on a beetle, although less noisy than a beetle.


If the engine is louder than before, there are worn parts. I realize that is is possible to be more critical assessing noises after a problem occurs so that than into account.

On most any engine, connecting rod bearings are the first to fail. A check for this is to warm up the engine then from idle, quickly snap the throttle to 50% and release, you might see 2500 - 3000 RPM in this test. If there is a sharp increase in noise, there is a loose connecting rod bearing. High revs / 100% throttle isn't needed.

QUOTE(rgolia @ Oct 31 2017, 11:46 AM) *

Will do a real road test run after I change the oil again this weekend. I am not confident that it will pass the test. I afraid that I am gonna need to start listing engine rebuild options. Parameters for the rebuild:

- It is a numbers matching car so keeping the case is a plus
- I currently have Weber 44s
- I would like more power but want to have heat exchangers
- I do not want the car to be loud, I want to keep my exhaust as is (I have a borla unit)
- I do not want to spend more on the engine than the car is worth (thats the wife talking)


Sounds like a stockish rebuild would fit your parameters.
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rgolia
post Nov 6 2017, 03:03 PM
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Fired it up this weekend and let it run for 15-20 mins. Oil pressure at around 25psi at idle and 42 psi at 2500 rpm after running for 20 mins. Still sounds like something is not right. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

BTW no frags found in the oil filter.

Gonna change the oil again and then give it a test ride. If it sh-ts the bed then time to do a 2056 build? Got Chris at Tangerine on stand-by.
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rgolia
post Nov 13 2017, 10:59 AM
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Well gave it a good warm up and then hit the road. Up and down the street...did not want to have to tow if too far. Makes a clanking noise on take off....runs better at high rpm. still has power, but definitely not a keeper.......something is effed up (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) This baby needs to visit someone with a clue and that is not me.

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McMark
post Nov 13 2017, 12:53 PM
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A quick refresh isn't outside your skill set. Teardown, inspect and post pictures. If you decide to hand off the project at some point, so be it, but I'd encourage you to jump in, if you've got the time/interest.
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pete000
post Nov 13 2017, 01:05 PM
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Here is the kit I got from a Miata MX5 performance site. Nice SS hose and fittings.Clamp included.


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malcolm2
post Nov 13 2017, 01:14 PM
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QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Oct 24 2017, 12:15 PM) *

About the dual senders.
I don't like them. They trip the oil Idiot light much earlier then the stock sender. Some people don't mind that, but on some engines you can get the oil light on at hot idle but the oil pressure is still within spec. Disconcerting.

I ran my hose to a T fitting, and have the pressure sender on one side and the stock idiot light sender on the other.

Zach



zackly the issue that I have..... oil temp gets over 200 and I stop at a stop light....950 rpm idle and the GREEN light is on. gauge is still reading 10 psi.

I have purchased, but not yet installed the 42 draft design rig so I can use the OEM OP sender to the light.

BTW I bought and have been using for 40K miles, a paint ball gun hose. Used a brass Tee from Home Depot and a gauge from Harbor Freight so I have an in-bay OP gauge. All were are super cheap and the hoses come in varying lengths. So far so good.
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Dave_Darling
post Nov 13 2017, 02:45 PM
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QUOTE(pete000 @ Nov 13 2017, 11:05 AM) *

Here is the kit I got from a Miata MX5 performance site. Nice SS hose and fittings.Clamp included.


Hopefully you have added a ground wire to the outside of the sender. The insulation on the clamp will otherwise interfere with the ground path for the sender, and you're either going to get no readings, or inconsistent ones.

--DD
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pete000
post Nov 13 2017, 04:21 PM
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QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Nov 13 2017, 12:45 PM) *

QUOTE(pete000 @ Nov 13 2017, 11:05 AM) *

Here is the kit I got from a Miata MX5 performance site. Nice SS hose and fittings.Clamp included.


Hopefully you have added a ground wire to the outside of the sender. The insulation on the clamp will otherwise interfere with the ground path for the sender, and you're either going to get no readings, or inconsistent ones.

--DD



Works fine the hose is metal so the ground is there.
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