QUOTE(rgolia @ Oct 31 2017, 11:46 AM)
Got oil back in it and fired it up. After a short but painful squeal it fired up and ran.
That's usually a very bad sign, at most an engine with wear will rattle until oil pressure is built up. Did the noise occur during cranking or immediately after the engine fired?
Are you sure the alternator belt is tight? A lose belt will sequel then suddenly get quiet as the battery recharges.
QUOTE(rgolia @ Oct 31 2017, 11:46 AM)
I let it idle for about 5 mins. Didn't sound bad, but there was what sounded like valve clatter on a beetle, although less noisy than a beetle.
If the engine is louder than before, there are worn parts. I realize that is is possible to be more critical assessing noises after a problem occurs so that than into account.
On most any engine, connecting rod bearings are the first to fail. A check for this is to warm up the engine then from idle, quickly snap the throttle to 50% and release, you might see 2500 - 3000 RPM in this test. If there is a sharp increase in noise, there is a loose connecting rod bearing. High revs / 100% throttle isn't needed.
QUOTE(rgolia @ Oct 31 2017, 11:46 AM)
Will do a real road test run after I change the oil again this weekend. I am not confident that it will pass the test. I afraid that I am gonna need to start listing engine rebuild options. Parameters for the rebuild:
- It is a numbers matching car so keeping the case is a plus
- I currently have Weber 44s
- I would like more power but want to have heat exchangers
- I do not want the car to be loud, I want to keep my exhaust as is (I have a borla unit)
- I do not want to spend more on the engine than the car is worth (thats the wife talking)
Sounds like a stockish rebuild would fit your parameters.