Dr Phil’s copper 914 restoration thread- paint and body work on deck- getting fenders fixed and car repainted! New thread to document process, Update:- some finishing touches - constant , never done LOL Options

[Krieger]

Looking good!

[adolimpio]

Looking good!

[DRPHIL914]

new E-brake cables and boots, old ones were only about 10 years old but had paint and undercoat spray on them and the sheath of one was cut , now is a good time to clean this up and put in new.

[DRPHIL914]

it’s been a week since my last post to update this ,
i jd the other thread about the CV issue, ans with that complete i was able to get the motor mounted in the car and wiring installed, also fuel lines etc. Saturday we primed it , fort oil pressure so hooked up the fuel lines and injectors and did the first start up.
It is now a running car! Sunday i did a run around the neighborhood, 2 20 minute runs for break in, and some tuning. idle is high and i think it’s an issue with vac hose hook up, this motor has head vents ans i was going off of factory diagram but several people suggested i hook up the head vent ans the oil filler vent to a breather box/catch can. any input on this would be appreciated- i will post a few pics but it’s installed per factory diagram from Jeff Bowlsby website.

[nditiz1]

Nice work! I would go with that same idea. Mount a box to the firewall and have all 3 terminate at the breather. Cap off the one hole that would be used for the oil filler to the air box.

Where did you source your ebrake cables and boots? I need to redo both of mine.

[DRPHIL914]

Nice work! I would go with that same idea. Mount a box to the firewall and have all 3 terminate at the breather. Cap off the one hole that would be used for the oil filler to the air box.

Where did you source your ebrake cables and boots? I need to redo both of mine.

@nditiz1 thanks for the input. yea, hooked up like this, the breather goes to the manifold/plenum which sucks a lot of air and is like a giant vac leak, before with original 75 motor that had the smog removed , no head vents the breather just went to the air box, not plenum. but like that its going to suck oil vapor and mess up the box and the hoses. I was told by an experienced VW and Porsche motor builder that doing it with the catch can box will balance the pressure, not suck those oil vapor into the box and decrease the carbon build up on the valves too. IDK but i am going to make that change and see how that does.
- also the E-brake cables came from E-bay, but the boots are either 914rubber or SMC i am not sure.
I have my other cables i had installed about 5 years ago, they are fine and just had a bit of overspray on them and a bit of rubbing on one of the sheaths. if you want them i can give them to you at Okteenerfest, let me know. i will bring them with, will trade for a bottle of Hendricks Gin or a nice Bourbon lol.



Phil

[barefoot]

it’s been a week since my last post to update this ,
i jd the other thread about the CV issue, ans with that complete i was able to get the motor mounted in the car and wiring installed, also fuel lines etc. Saturday we primed it , fort oil pressure so hooked up the fuel lines and injectors and did the first start up.
It is now a running car! Sunday i did a run around the neighborhood, 2 20 minute runs for break in, and some tuning. idle is high and i think it’s an issue with vac hose hook up, this motor has head vents ans i was going off of factory diagram but several people suggested i hook up the head vent ans the oil filler vent to a breather box/catch can. any input on this would be appreciated- i will post a few pics but it’s installed per factory diagram from Jeff Bowlsby website.

I connected the head vents to themselves & a small breather catch can mounted high on firewall to vent the chimney to a carb inlet. NB I stuffed some open cell reticulated foam in the breather can. These hoses stay dry, no oil collection observed.
Not sure where with FI you would connect vent hose.

[DRPHIL914]

new skis on the rack, and some new door panels!

good chip damage repaired and repainted ans back on the car

[DRPHIL914]

new front upper pad from 914rubber one installed

i like the extra vinyl left for wrapping it into the groove and under the seal but it took a while , extra hands would have helped.

[DRPHIL914]

with the door panels. nice to have new vapor barrier, but the butyl is a bit thick or the clips a bit too tight so it’s hard to get them to grab by just pressing, end results is worth the work

[DRPHIL914]

case vent routed to oil vapor catch can now, and new valve cover gaskets done to fix the leak i had after soing last valve clearance check at 1500 mile rebuild break in check .
and new heat shield pad from rix914parts,

[DRPHIL914]

getting close to ready for Werks!!

[DRPHIL914]

my hood repair and repaint was done by Sonderwerks in Cornelius NC
then had some nice cars in the shop while there including a 914/6 that was getting tuned , thet had been originally done by Patrick Motorsports but is now in NC.

[DRPHIL914]

when the motor was out i cleaned detailed ans stripped off the back pad adhesive, sanded, primed and started painting the firewall and the lower half with stone guard first.
also stripped and repainted the rear wheel wells, but never documented that here on my thread . i guess i just put it on instagram.

new e-brake cables too

new sway bar bushings and brackets
stripped declared and painted underside of the trunk it was a lot of “werk” cleaning out and stripping off the original undercoating user the trunk ans in wheel wells ans on the firewall/bull gear in rear what a mess, i wish i had done that back when i had all the other body work and rust repair done with floor pans ans longs, that stuff got cleaned off and repainted but i didn’t to the engine compartment then or the wheel wells. it’s done now!

[DRPHIL914]

the fan rebuild is in a different thread but all new seals with new motor ans fan assembly so now fully functional fan, all 3 speeds no popping fuses!!
cleaned and polished in and out! as close to fully restored fresh air box as it gets

[Tincan365]

Wow, your car looks great! I just read all 23 pages start to finish and got super motivated. I just picked up a single owner, 75k (with proof), 75' 2.0 with zero hell hole or longs rust. It's got a bit of surface rust from rodent dropping, from when it sat in a garage since 1981. I just pulled out the entire interior looking for rust, cleaning and reassembling. I also picked up a full 5 lug, brake and suspension swap so I can fit my 7" wide cookie cutters. Everything that gets touched gets upgraded if possible.
I forgot to mention, It's also metallic copper!
Also, I got it for free.......
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)
Keep up the good work!
Josh

[Root_Werks]

Wow this turned out nice! Love the attention to detail, new small parts and such. Nicely done!

[DRPHIL914]

Wow, your car looks great! I just read all 23 pages start to finish and got super motivated. I just picked up a single owner, 75k (with proof), 75' 2.0 with zero hell hole or longs rust. It's got a bit of surface rust from rodent dropping, from when it sat in a garage since 1981. I just pulled out the entire interior looking for rust, cleaning and reassembling. I also picked up a full 5 lug, brake and suspension swap so I can fit my 7" wide cookie cutters. Everything that gets touched gets upgraded if possible.
I forgot to mention, It's also metallic copper!
Also, I got it for free.......
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)
Keep up the good work!
Josh

Wow this turned out nice! Love the attention to detail, new small parts and such. Nicely done!

@Tincan365
@Root_Werks

thanks guys! It seems like one is never done! We started out on this 12 years ago
and its been quite a journey. I should post some updated pictures since i recently had to pull the transmission to take care of a leaking output shaft seal and replace the clutch disc, and all the push rod tube seals. While that was getting done i again replaced the accelerator cable and the clutch cable, and wrapped them for extra protection . Nothing last for ever, its just a constant project. Next up is new front top and side seal. I put that seal in 8 or so years ago, time for a new one, then new soft brake lines, i have the new braded ones from PMB's recent group buy.
I will post some more pictures soon, most of them are on instragram at drphils914

Tincan post some pictures of that copper metallic!! not many were made, its good to hear another one survived and will be back on the road!! What color interior? mine was originally tan but was so bad from being out in the desert of CA that i just redid the whole thing and i liked the black and plaid so thats where i am now.

[DRPHIL914]

leaking trans seal made a mess , cleaned it all up and painted the trans while it was out,
cable separating and damaged from heat and age means all new cables and new wrap including reflective heat shield type wrap on the section where where the AF meter wire connector is close to exhaust header pipe, i had extra wire wrap so i put it on all the e-brake cables too, so extra protection from heat and road grime. after 2 drives no leaks at the trans or rms, or the push rod tube seals that were all replaced along with new rocker cover seals. hope now it can stay clean for a while!
of course the old disc got trans fluid on it so new disc with new rms ans pilot bearing too- that trans output shaft seal should have lasted more than a year , now i am wondering if i pu a new one in last year when i rebuilt the trans oh well.
also i added spacer to the transmission mount above the cup washer to drops it about 1/4” in rear so the muffler isn’t rubbing on the shield or the valance. now it’s perfect!

[DRPHIL914]

well now that we are back up and running (Thanks Sir Andy!!!!) thought i’d post on my recent showing at the HHI Concours, i may have done that on a different thread like “what did you do to your 914 today” but need to put it here too.

Order of Merit Award at the “Car Club Jamboree” 2 weeks back.