Keep Dellorto DRLA 45s and Bosch 009? Options

[98101]

If you look at my photo you can see that my actuator arms are all the way at the end of the hex bar. Yours look like they are more inboard which doesn't really mater as long as they are both the same.

Yes, mine are definitely further inboard ... but different distances for some reason. I'll try to buy Allen wrench to readjust and carb cleaner to clean the jets tomorrow.

[type2man]

Perhaps the allen screws backed off and the linkage arms moved? Also the linkage bar that goes across shouldn't move from carb to carb. It should have the smallest amount of play so it doesn't bind and it should not move up or down. At this point, I would either buy a new CB linkage or the CSP linkage and have a VW shop install it.

[98101]

Perhaps the allen screws backed off and the linkage arms moved? Also the linkage bar that goes across shouldn't move from carb to carb. It should have the smallest amount of play so it doesn't bind and it should not move up or down. At this point, I would either buy a new CB linkage or the CSP linkage and have a VW shop install it.

Some updates since the last post: Among my bicycle tools I found the allen wrench that would loosen the linkage arms. Both of them were locked down tight. However, moving the arms along the hex bar didn't seem to correct the angle discrepancy.




Also when I loosened the linkage arms, there seemed to be a spring missing from the right side end of the hex bar. Per the CB Performance book, there are supposed to be springs in both ends to keep the hex bar centered.

With family Christmas activities and every store being closed, I wasn't able to obtain carb or brake cleaner, so I blew out the idle jets using the Lewinsky method. It idles at 800 when it's cold and my subjective impression is that it's smooth at idle.

The good news is that tomorrow I have an appointment with a VW shop that was recommended by a local 914World member.

Merry Christmas all, and thanks for your continued help!

[MarkV]

It looks like the hex bar is adjusted all to way to one side for some reason. The pivots for the hex bar that hold tension on the springs are adjustable. In one of the photos the pivot is almost all the way inside the hex bar and in the other photo the pivot is adjusted most of the way out.

The angles you have highlighted in green are pretty much fixed. The angle from side to side is the angle that you want to make sure is symmetrical. If one of those bars has a different angle than the other the carbs aren't going to open in unison. I have a cheap magnetic base angle finder/gauge from Harbor Freight that I used when I set my carbs up that helped me get it right.

[zig-n-zag]

Different intake manifolds created the width difference. Your manifolds have a sharper turn into the head, whereas the cb manifolds have a gentler turn. The cb manifolds are also taller. I use those dell carb gaskets as a soft mount of sorts, though i cut them apart so they fit flat. The cb crossbar for type4/914 is longer, for type1 shorter. The ball ends supporting the crossbar look cobbled together which led me to think that's a type1 length bar made to work. Check the part numbers on your air cleaner base plates and see if they are for type1 or 4 with cb. Good luck, have fun.

[98101]

It looks like the hex bar is adjusted all to way to one side for some reason. The pivots for the hex bar that hold tension on the springs are adjustable. In one of the photos the pivot is almost all the way inside the hex bar and in the other photo the pivot is adjusted most of the way out.

Tonight I didn't detect a spring on the right side of the hex bar, only on the left.

The angles you have highlighted in green are pretty much fixed. The angle from side to side is the angle that you want to make sure is symmetrical. If one of those bars has a different angle than the other the carbs aren't going to open in unison. I have a cheap magnetic base angle finder/gauge from Harbor Freight that I used when I set my carbs up that helped me get it right.

I'm 60% sure I understood the part about angle from side to side, but I'm spacially challenged so please bear with me as I confirm: the angles of the two linkage rods (the funny-threaded rods with heim joints at each end) against the carbs when viewed from above the engine lid?

[MarkV]

I could be wrong but I think he has all of the correct parts they just need to be setup correctly. unless I am missing something in the photos I think I would start by centering the hex bar in the left and right pivots.... if he is missing an inner spring find a replacement. After the hex bar is centered then move the arms so that they are symmetrical and then adjust the length of the drop rods. Last move the accelerator arm so that it lines up with the cable and maybe remove that extra spring that is on the outside of the accelerator cable.

[MarkV]

There are two angles to check. There is a front to back angle that is pretty fixed and there is a left to right angle. You have to set the left to right before you set the front to back. If you have the left to right set the same on both sides the front to back cant be off although you may have to adjust the length of the rods.

Take to spring you have to the hardware store and see if you can find something close that will work. My local Ace Hardware has a plastic bin with multiple assorted springs.

[MarkV]

Here is a photo from directly above. See how there is an angle from the pivot arm to the carb? The pivot on the pivot arm is closer to the center of the photo than the pivot on the carb. One is not directly over the other....that angle need to match on both carbs. The pivot arm is more inboard than the pivot on the carb.

[rhodyguy]

The CB linkage should be spring loaded on both sides. You'll be fighting that old setup for eternity.

[IronHillRestorations]

From what I can see in post #43 the thick intake gasket is deformed and leaking air. It looks to me like you can see the inner edge of the gasket has been squeezed out. The carbs will never sync up if you have a big intake gasket leak.



Ditch the hex cross bar and get a CSP bellcrank. I found a CSP type 4 kit at Mid-America Motorworks for $125, even if you paid another $50 it's worth it. Think of the CB cast hex bar as a linkage from a Yugo, and the CSP as from a Porsche. There's that much of a difference. https://www.csp-shop.com/en/engine/type-4-b...ida-23951b.html

[MarkV]

So you're saying my car is a Yugo because it has a cross bar linkage. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

Both linkages do the same thing one is just easier to set up than the other.

[rhodyguy]

The pictured linkage has been around. Stuff wears out. Heim joints get sloppy. Fix the gasket/nut/lockwasher issue before you do anything else.

[IronHillRestorations]

The CSP products are higher quality, that will give you better and much easier adjustment as well as smoother throttle actuation, that's what I'm saying MarkV.

You can make a linkage from coat hanger and welding rod if you want to, it's your car, do whatever you want.

[MarkV]

The CSP products are higher quality, that will give you better and much easier adjustment as well as smoother throttle actuation, that's what I'm saying MarkV.

No doubt the CSP is a better set. I was just trying to get him up and running with what he has in his engine bay.

[98101]

No doubt the CSP is a better set. I was just trying to get him up and running with what he has in his engine bay.

Thanks Mark. I appreciate the time and attention you've put into helping me out. I owe all you guys many rounds of beer (or maybe tequila if we're in Tucson).

This morning Franklin's, a local air-cooled VW shop, showed me a new engine with the hex bar linkage working properly, so no doubt it can be done well. He also showed me an engine with the CSP setup.

I've lost some more confident in the condition of my linkage after seeing how much play mine has is in the transition from idle to light throttle (which is also where I've started getting the rough running again).



I think mine could be gotten to work, but the CSP linkage is so cheap and I like the way it unclutters the engine compartment. It's probably worth the $150 just to have people stop blaming the hex bar linkage.

[MarkV]

A new linkage and maybe some new carb base gaskets will certainly help.

If you cant get the linkage locally here is a link that might be closer to you:

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?Pr...C31-129-941-400

[type2man]

I ordered parts from CIP and they showed up two days later and I live across the country. My mailmans feet were on fire. You just need to make sure your throttle cable will reach the CSP setup which bolts onto the case at the lowest point and closest to the trans housing

[98101]

I ordered parts from CIP and they showed up two days later and I live across the country. My mailmans feet were on fire. You just need to make sure your throttle cable will reach the CSP setup which bolts onto the case at the lowest point and closest to the trans housing

I put in a request to CIP to find out when it will be back in stock. Failing that, order from CSP-shop.com in Germany I guess.

In other news, at the VW shop I finally got a glimpse of the current venturi size for these DRLA 45s:



He thought this size venturi might restrict the top end. The engine is 2366cc (71mm stroke with 103mm pistons) Web street cam, stock 2 liter valves. It has a lot of power already, so I'm not sure going to a bigger venturi than this would make sense since I also want it to be drivable.

Oh, I also put in the 123 Bluetooth distributor with a conservative curve for now. It will be fun to experiment with that once the carbs are sorted.

[98101]

I'm trying to put the CSP Type 4 Porsche kit onto my DRLA 45s. The instructions at https://www.csp-shop.com/technik/pdf/deeng/18236.pdf are for IDFs and I made the mistake of following the step about removing the throttle return spring. This seems to have been unnecessary given the way the previous hex bar was installed.

Anyway, I'm a klutz and the spring has more tension than I expected and I'm wondering if anyone has any special trick for getting it wound up again.