73 914 2.0 Rebuild Options

[mgphoto]

1 motor is no longer stock, if it was then yes leave it stock as in D-Jet

2 check the type iv store for cam types

3 yes, riveted gears need some machine work for use with new cam.

4 these are fine, they might transfer heat a little better then the AAs.

Dump the hydraulic lifters...

1. Motor and car are very far from stock so not concerned about originality. I'll build a 2056 then.

2. Will do. Thanks

3. Did not know OE cam gears were riveted. I will check that. Thanks for the info. Is so I will get a new cam gear as well.

4. Thanks for input. I appreciate it.

Why are hydraulic lifters bad? What lifters would you go with?

I built mine with parkerized solid lifters and hand cut a set of chrome moly push rods.
I also used 911 adjusters.
I keep the D-Jet.

Hydraulic lifters steal horsepower, they can collapse and cause a push rod to bend.
Better for buses than sports cars. They need a hydraulic cam.

[R Dub]

I built mine with parkerized solid lifters and hand cut a set of chrome moly push rods.
I also used 911 adjusters.
I keep the D-Jet.

Hydraulic lifters steal horsepower, they can collapse and cause a push rod to bend.
Better for buses than sports cars. They need a hydraulic cam.

I understand that hydraulic lifters might rob a bit of power as they can compress compared to a solid lifter. However the lift on the hydraulic cam is a bit larger which should account for some of this no?

I'm more interested in building a reliable street motor than a all out race motor. From my understanding with solids you need to adjust the valves more often and with hydraulic you do not correct? So if I'm looking to go with the "less maintenance" route, isn't hydraulic the way to go?

Now sorry to be a total nub but I've read a lot about people going with "1.7 rockers" and "911 adjusters" and have many questions about this. I've done a lot of searches but haven't found a clear answer
1. Are these rockers with a 1.7:1 ratio or rocker arms off of a 1.7L motor?
2. Do you have to do any machining/anything other parts to install 1.7 rockers into a stock 2.0L head
3. Is there any specific year and engine size 911 that I need adjusters out of?
4. What is the benefits of going with this route?
5. If I do go with hydraulic cam/lifters, is there still a benefit of going with these?

[bbrock]

There are several threads on the swivel foot adjusters. I think this one should answer most of your questions: except the last one: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...327102&st=0

[R Dub]

There are several threads on the swivel foot adjusters. I think this one should answer most of your questions: except the last one: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...327102&st=0

Thanks so much for the reply. This does help, not sure why I couldn't find this in my initial search.

It does look like you need to cut the rockers down in order to accept the 911 adjusters. To be honest I don't really like this idea. Also right now I Plan on going with the stock valves, not SS and if this car see 2000 miles a year I would be surprised. Based on what I've read, the stock 10MM adjusters should do the job just fine for my application so I will most likely go that route.

[R Dub]

Just found this on aircooled.net about the 911 adjusters

"IMPORTANT! Do NOT use these on hydraulic lifter engines, THEY CAN FAIL. These need "valve lash" to give oil the chance to get in there and lubricate, with no clearance they can gall and fail quickly!"

Good to know

[mgphoto]

My advice is that you should pick up the Wilson VW engine rebuild book.
Build a stock engine with 96mm barrels.
Get a good carb cam, solid lifters and stock push rods.
Your gonna need a machine shop to measure your case, grind valves and make other checks to insure a quality build.
Toss out the 40 year old valves, new stainless will work great.
You don’t need much to make a type iv a little peppier.
It will be a really fun car to drive.
FYI the adjustment schedule is the same for solid lifters and hydraulic.
Elephant feet with chrome moly push rods will produce “0” lash meaning you don’t use a feeler gauge so you only need 2 hands instead of 3, to adjust the valves, but a lot more complicated to build in the first place.

[R Dub]

Just ordered about $630 worth of seals from 914rubber. Hopefully the car will be all sealed now.

Got to look at the heads just a bit yesterday. Found out the adjuster screw on the rocker is 8MM and not the stock 10MM. Not really sure why though.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i582.photobucket.com-21387-1548624974.1.jpg)

Also not sure if this is a issue or not. Really hoping not cause buying new heads was not in the budget. I'm going to contact a local shop tomorrow to see if they can inspect and rebuild if possible.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i582.photobucket.com-21387-1548624974.2.jpg)
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[Bleyseng]

I built mine with parkerized solid lifters and hand cut a set of chrome moly push rods.
I also used 911 adjusters.
I keep the D-Jet.

Hydraulic lifters steal horsepower, they can collapse and cause a push rod to bend.
Better for buses than sports cars. They need a hydraulic cam.

I understand that hydraulic lifters might rob a bit of power as they can compress compared to a solid lifter. However the lift on the hydraulic cam is a bit larger which should account for some of this no?

I'm more interested in building a reliable street motor than a all out race motor. From my understanding with solids you need to adjust the valves more often and with hydraulic you do not correct? So if I'm looking to go with the "less maintenance" route, isn't hydraulic the way to go?

Now sorry to be a total nub but I've read a lot about people going with "1.7 rockers" and "911 adjusters" and have many questions about this. I've done a lot of searches but haven't found a clear answer
1. Are these rockers with a 1.7:1 ratio or rocker arms off of a 1.7L motor?
2. Do you have to do any machining/anything other parts to install 1.7 rockers into a stock 2.0L head
3. Is there any specific year and engine size 911 that I need adjusters out of?
4. What is the benefits of going with this route?
5. If I do go with hydraulic cam/lifters, is there still a benefit of going with these?

Hydraulic lifters wear the cams out as they are always in contact. Solids have the .006 lash so they do have a time no in contact hence better wear. If you ever looked at the high mileage buses and vanagons with hydraulic lifters you would see the cams wiped out. Plus the cam grinds are for buses/vans not a 914. I check adjust the valves once a year when I change the oil. I drive mine maybe 1500-2000 miles per year so I still change the oil and check things.

[Valy]

That crack needs some head welding.
Sorry for the bad news.

[R Dub]

Quick update:

The heads are with Adrian at Headflow masters. He called saying they are repairable and will do a complete valve job including new stainless valves, springs, guides and seats. He said the SI valves he uses will work well with the stock adjuster screws. He suggested going with bigger valves, 44x38, since the car is running carbs so that will be getting done as well.

Just ordered 96mm Keith Black piston and cylinders from FAT Performance along with a new 86 grind cam, solid lifters and a new cam gear from Web Cam.

Will be ordering the rest of the stuff such as bearings, gaskets, seals, clutch, push rods, etc very soon. Hope to have all the parts arrive within a couple of weeks so I can start to rebuild. I did pick up the Tom Wilson rebuild book so hopefully it goes fairly smooth. I'll post pics of the new parts and progress as soon as I get them.

[R Dub]

Starting to get some parts in. I was told the heads would be done Monday or Tuesday so hopefully will get those in soon. I am strongly considering taking the case and all the parts I bought to McMark at Original Customs and just have him tear it down and rebuild it. That way I know it will be done correctly the first time. Also he will know if something doesn't look right and can fix it right away.

Also started to clean up and paint some parts to get those ready. The engine tins (as well as many other parts) are painted the original color of the car, 51P Olympic Blue to pay tribute to what it was originally

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i582.photobucket.com-21387-1553376566.1.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i582.photobucket.com-21387-1553376566.2.jpg)
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[R Dub]

Dropped the motor off with McMark at Original Customs today. Happy to know it'll be done correctly. Chomping at the bit to get it back. Will post updates once it's done and back in the car.

[R Dub]

Got the motor back from McMark a couple weeks ago. This weekend I got around to putting it all together and getting it in the car. Was able to get it started and ran for a bit. Then out of no where it died and couldn't get it to restart.

First thought I had/do have a fuel pump problem. The fuel pump sometimes wouldn't prime but when you wiggle the relay it does. I will buy a new relay in hopes of fixing this but jumped the pump just to get the motor running again. However it wouldn't fire. Upon inspection one carb is not squirting fuel and not sure why, while the other works. I suspect a stuck needle and seat (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) I'll take the carb off the car and tear into to to see if I can see one.

Really kinda bummed cause I thought I would be driving it again this weekend.

[R Dub]

Update. Put the new relay in and fuel pump seemed to work great. Hopefully that fixed that issue.

Took the carb off and found out that the roll pin came out of the cam and was not lifting the lifter. Therefore as a result it was not squirting fuel. Put a new roll pin in there and it fixed that issue. Then got the car running and pretty well. Adjusted the timing and everything seemed to be running good but then....

Went to turn the car around on the lift so the back was facing the garage door so we could run the car for a while to dial in the carbs. While driving up, the external oil cooler drain bolt hit the lift and cracked the housing and oil started to leak everywhere. Honestly my grandpa had all of the external oil cooler lines run pretty poorly so I will now have to redo all of them. Below is a pic.

Now I Need Help!
1) I need to know where does the oil temp sender wire plugs into under the battery? I looked everywhere and couldn't find it. The wiring is not stock so I'm sure that doesn't help

2) At idle the volts is just under 12 and then when you hit the brakes or turn signal it drops to under 10. Is this normal? If not, what should it be and how do I tell if the alternator is bad or something else? If something else, where to start?

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.ibb.co-21387-1560653615.1.jpg)

[R Dub]

Today was a great day. Got the oil cooler lines all fixed and figured out the charging issue. Just forgot to reconnect a plug after we installed the motor. Once we plugged it in, it started charging right away.

650 days from when it got delivered to my parents house in Chicago, I finally got to drive the car home. There are still things to work on like the temp gauge and getting breather hoses hooked up but it drives!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.ibb.co-21387-1561345074.1.jpg)

[R Dub]

Been two months since I brought the car home. I drive it about once a week and so far it has been very reliable and so much fun to drive. Love to see people stare at it, or the the thumbs up or nice care. There are some issues/questions.

Issues
1) I do have oil leaking out of the taco plate, actually quite a bit where I had to put more oil in it. McMark sent me a new seal. I now need to get the copper crush washers for it. I will address this at it's first oil change since all oil will be drained when I remove the taco plate.

2) I have trans fluid seeping out of where the speedo drive goes into the transmission. I have bought the new part from 914 rubber with the 2 o-rings in hopes that will fix this leak. I will address this along with the taco plate.

Questions

1) Should the turn signal automatically turn off after you make a turn? My stalk currently does not.

2) Just recently the parking brake does not hold in the up position. I can pull the lever up and hear it ratchet up but then it doesn't hold at least all the time. Any idea why not?

3) As the trans warms up it gets harder to shift in and out of 4th and out of 5th. Is this a sign of a issues with the trans or is this just a characteristic of these transmission.

[Larmo63]

Your turn signal switch is probably broken or worn out, or the cancelling plate on the back of the steering wheel isn't in the right attitude.

You probably need to adjust the e-brake cables, and easy job.

The rear rotors might need to be adjusted/re-vented, a little trickier.

Your car looks SICK!!!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

[R Dub]

Unfortunately the car has been put away for the winter (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
My plans over this winter are to fix up the interior. Redo the seats & center console. Fix both windows and they are stuck. Adjust the windows for proper sealing as they leak badly even with new seals. Upgrade stereo and lights, etc. I'll keep this updated on that process.

However now I got a question for you guys.
When I put it up on the lift to store, was looking underneath the motor and see a lot of oil leaking out. It appears to be leaking from a couple of the push rod tubes, valve covers and taco place. The motor was just rebuilt by McMark with all brand new Victor Reinz seals (expect for the sender grommet coming out of the taco plate which has been ordered from 914rubber). Are these motors known for leaking out of the push tubes and valve covers? Is there anything tricks or tips to prevent the leaks?

[R Dub]

Got the interior torn apart. Now I need some help so please educate me. I was going to send my gauges off to @timothy_nd28 to get LED's put into them. Do the LED's plug directly into where the old light bulb plugged into? If not what do I do with the old light bulbs?

Here is a couple of pics

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.ibb.co-21387-1577213019.1.jpg)


(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.ibb.co-21387-1577213020.2.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.ibb.co-21387-1577213020.3.jpg)

[timothy_nd28]

Yes, the old light bulbs are not used anymore when you do my LED conversion. Each gauge has its own LED strip, and a connector at the rear of the gauge. A small wiring harness connects each gauge together, which leads back to a hidden controller. I did a few write ups for people that want to do this themselves.

I've been out of the game for a few years, and wow how these RGB LED's have changed! In addition to that, this forum has also changed. I received a PM from a member, and it had a embedded picture! When did that happen? lol

Trying to keep up with these new style LED's, I'm experimenting with RGB+CCT LED's on another members car. This new LED has the original RGB function, but with two extra white LED's. Consequently going from 4 wire to 6 wire LEDs, which changes my setup quite a bit.