My High Amp Alternator, how I did it, and you can too |
|
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG.
This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way. Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners. |
|
My High Amp Alternator, how I did it, and you can too |
McMark |
Feb 12 2018, 11:58 AM
Post
#1
|
914 Freak! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None |
My original thread with real pictures
I won't be making/adapting these anymore, so I wanted to share all the info I found. I used the MechMan Alternators 150amp (Part Number: 7771150) but it's been discontinued. It's listed for a 1991 Ford F-150 5.0L motors. There are two different alternators with the same body (pictured below), the wrong one has the connector at 2:00 and the RIGHT one has the connector at 10:00. There are other options, but if I were doing another one, I would order the Bosch AL562X which is a 75A unit. There are aftermarket builders who make these up to 220A. Adaptation should be similar for all. The image below should hit most of the major points, but here's a few extra details: *If I were doing more of these, I would look into just making an alternate version of the upper and lower brackets to work with an unmodified Ford alternator. That way if you need one while away from home, it's possible. *The unit I bought had an internal fan, the stock Ford units use a front mounted fan. If anyone tries this they'll have to confirm that the fan + pulley still line up with the fan pulley. Visually, it appears that the internal or external fan setup occupies the same space (compared to each other) but the internal just has extra material in the case to encapsulate the fan. So I suspect the fan will be a non-issue. *These Ford alternators also use a ribbed belt, so a V-Groove belt would need to be sourced. I looked quickly on eBay and it appears that they should be pretty easy to come by. *Offset drilling the upper hole is almost impossible to do freehand. You'd need to take it to a machine shop. I built a drill jig to keep my drill bit in the right place. The difficulty of this step is another reason why I'd recommend someone design new brackets -- you wouldn't need to drill this out and could simply loosen/tighten the upper bold 'from the back'. I'd be happy to loan out my drill jig. It worked for me and it should work on these, but I can't guarantee the location is perfect on all variations of this alternator. And finally, when grinding/milling/cutting on the alternator body make sure to tape off any holes where bits of metal could enter the alternator. Attached image(s) |
malcolm2 |
Feb 15 2018, 08:26 AM
Post
#2
|
Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,745 Joined: 31-May 11 From: Nashville Member No.: 13,139 Region Association: South East States |
McMark suggested a 75amp model and I found a 70amp alternator. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)
It was impossible to find a Bosch brand. But there is a brand called REMY. Part # 14062. They are all over and really not very expensive. Even found one vendor that will offer a 3 year warranty for $7. As stated above they are used on the 75 to 79 bus type IV engines that had gasoline heaters and extra fans. Not an option that was installed on very many vehicles. RATWELL.com has a nice write up about the differences in the 50amp and 70amp set up. There are a few parts and pieces that I am going to try to hunt down. * REMY rebuilt 14062 delivered w/ 3yr warr. $114 * The cooling elbow is slightly different and I found several sources $15 * I need a pulley with a fan. Some Samba guys get frustrated in searching for the exact part and go without, so there is that. Found a BUG one and a CHEVY one for $15. Might need to modify, but hey, it's cheap. * Might need a special top bracket. Found a Samba seller that wants $35 for the long bracket. Screw that. I think I can make one. * Ratwell and others say that the Wire harness is different since the back plate is not there to protect the connector from HEAT. $92 Up to $271 total with the bracket might need some additional BUS cooling tins I don't expect them to take me much over $300. So I am going to buy all this and keep posting. |
Mblizzard |
Feb 23 2018, 10:14 AM
Post
#3
|
Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,033 Joined: 28-January 13 From: Knoxville Tn Member No.: 15,438 Region Association: South East States |
McMark suggested a 75amp model and I found a 70amp alternator. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) It was impossible to find a Bosch brand. But there is a brand called REMY. Part # 14062. They are all over and really not very expensive. Even found one vendor that will offer a 3 year warranty for $7. As stated above they are used on the 75 to 79 bus type IV engines that had gasoline heaters and extra fans. Not an option that was installed on very many vehicles. RATWELL.com has a nice write up about the differences in the 50amp and 70amp set up. There are a few parts and pieces that I am going to try to hunt down. * REMY rebuilt 14062 delivered w/ 3yr warr. $114 * The cooling elbow is slightly different and I found several sources $15 * I need a pulley with a fan. Some Samba guys get frustrated in searching for the exact part and go without, so there is that. Found a BUG one and a CHEVY one for $15. Might need to modify, but hey, it's cheap. * Might need a special top bracket. Found a Samba seller that wants $35 for the long bracket. Screw that. I think I can make one. * Ratwell and others say that the Wire harness is different since the back plate is not there to protect the connector from HEAT. $92 Up to $271 total with the bracket might need some additional BUS cooling tins I don't expect them to take me much over $300. So I am going to buy all this and keep posting. Clark can you post the source for the boot? As far as the fan goes, I don't think you need one if you have the boot hooked up. With the boot air will be circulated out the front of the alternator by the impeller. The amount of additional cooling provided by a fan on the front is likely non existent. Also I have found a few of the 7771150 Alternators out there. |
malcolm2 |
Feb 23 2018, 02:12 PM
Post
#4
|
Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,745 Joined: 31-May 11 From: Nashville Member No.: 13,139 Region Association: South East States |
As far as the fan goes, I don't think you need one if you have the boot hooked up. With the boot air will be circulated out the front of the alternator by the impeller. The amount of additional cooling provided by a fan on the front is likely non existent. Also I have found a few of the 7771150 Alternators out there. FAN: That is what the Samba guys have been doing, just leaving the fan off. You have to wonder why the VW engineers included it in the '79 70amp alt. I assume they were expecting extra heat from all the camping accessories and heater fans.... which the 914 does not have. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) I think I mentioned that I found some fans that slide on the shaft with the existing key. Your link shows a photo of just that. Maybe GM models for about $15, so it might be simple to attempt to install and get a bit more cooling. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) The 7771150 is the Mechman one that I really wanted to try. McMark used it. With 7" hole-to-hole dimension, it should bolt right into the 914's brackets. And IIRC the Over all diameter is smaller than our Bosch Alt. But it is now discontinued. I found a few are remaining out there. But they are $250-ish. |
Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 5th May 2024 - 12:57 PM |
All rights reserved 914World.com © since 2002 |
914World.com is the fastest growing online 914 community! We have it all, classifieds, events, forums, vendors, parts, autocross, racing, technical articles, events calendar, newsletter, restoration, gallery, archives, history and more for your Porsche 914 ... |