My High Amp Alternator, how I did it, and you can too |
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My High Amp Alternator, how I did it, and you can too |
McMark |
Feb 12 2018, 11:58 AM
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#1
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914 Freak! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None |
My original thread with real pictures
I won't be making/adapting these anymore, so I wanted to share all the info I found. I used the MechMan Alternators 150amp (Part Number: 7771150) but it's been discontinued. It's listed for a 1991 Ford F-150 5.0L motors. There are two different alternators with the same body (pictured below), the wrong one has the connector at 2:00 and the RIGHT one has the connector at 10:00. There are other options, but if I were doing another one, I would order the Bosch AL562X which is a 75A unit. There are aftermarket builders who make these up to 220A. Adaptation should be similar for all. The image below should hit most of the major points, but here's a few extra details: *If I were doing more of these, I would look into just making an alternate version of the upper and lower brackets to work with an unmodified Ford alternator. That way if you need one while away from home, it's possible. *The unit I bought had an internal fan, the stock Ford units use a front mounted fan. If anyone tries this they'll have to confirm that the fan + pulley still line up with the fan pulley. Visually, it appears that the internal or external fan setup occupies the same space (compared to each other) but the internal just has extra material in the case to encapsulate the fan. So I suspect the fan will be a non-issue. *These Ford alternators also use a ribbed belt, so a V-Groove belt would need to be sourced. I looked quickly on eBay and it appears that they should be pretty easy to come by. *Offset drilling the upper hole is almost impossible to do freehand. You'd need to take it to a machine shop. I built a drill jig to keep my drill bit in the right place. The difficulty of this step is another reason why I'd recommend someone design new brackets -- you wouldn't need to drill this out and could simply loosen/tighten the upper bold 'from the back'. I'd be happy to loan out my drill jig. It worked for me and it should work on these, but I can't guarantee the location is perfect on all variations of this alternator. And finally, when grinding/milling/cutting on the alternator body make sure to tape off any holes where bits of metal could enter the alternator. Attached image(s) |
malcolm2 |
Feb 25 2018, 12:36 PM
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#2
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,745 Joined: 31-May 11 From: Nashville Member No.: 13,139 Region Association: South East States |
I ended up putting this project on hold.
The Alternator arrived damaged by UPS. I rotate the shaft and there is a sticking place 1/2 way around. Huge hole in the inner and outer boxes where the shaft poked thru in transit. I called CarID and they said keep it, we will send you a new one. 2 days later they say they are on back order and it will be at least 30 days. I checked around and several other vendors are out of stock. This might be the end of the Remy 70 VW alternator. So I installed my spare 50amp cause I want to drive. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving-girl.gif) So 50 amp mounted, new belt adjusted, tins and exhaust re-installed, test drive complete. 13.3 volts at idle with the lights, hazards, radio, wipers on. 13.9 at 3000 rpms. Going for a Sunday drive. I will pick this back up in April, I guess. |
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