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1911 |
stewie |
Feb 13 2018, 01:07 PM
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#1
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 8 Joined: 11-February 18 From: seattle, wa Member No.: 21,883 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
What is the cheapest combination to get a 1911 out of a 1.7 stock everything?
Here is what i have in mind.. 94mm pistons and cylinders.. I've heard 94mm is barely adequate so 96 might be a stretch... stock cam 1.7 heads bored out to the OD register of a 1.8/2.0 Stock crank stock rods dual empi 34 carbs Any other combination that is cheaper and more efficient? |
stewie |
Feb 15 2018, 01:34 PM
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#2
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 8 Joined: 11-February 18 From: seattle, wa Member No.: 21,883 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
When I got my 914, it came with a 1.7 and dual Webber 44's. I drove it for a while and then I had a piston go bad, so I did the short stroke 1911 built. Larger pistons stock stroke, stock cam machined 1.7 heads. It was better, little more grunt and torque than the origin old 1.7 motor... I then had a rod bearing go bad due to an oil flow blockage... since we now had to split the case I ordered a custom cam, and added a conically shaped oil pressure release valve and the tuna can... The difference between the short stroke 1911 motor with a cam and doing it without the cam is a BIG difference. The difference between the motor now and the stock 1.7 is night and day...not even close to the same car. I think when I broke down the math I could have just spent $600 more during the first build, and gotten to my current set up much faster. I always tell people, there are few things that years down the road, everytime you drive it, you will still say "worth every penny", the cam is one of those things... Makes sense.. Thanks for clarifying. I'll definitely touch the cam. It would economically make more sense to build a 2056 for the $. I really don't know what cam is in my type 4. I have no record history of maintence or service done to it. For all i know it is already a 1911 with an aftermarket cam. It has been converted to a dual carb set up already... If it is a 1911... I would be very surprised. It's pretty dang slow haha. It was listed as a 1.7 on craiglist with no mentions of being rebuilt so i'm pretty confident it's a 1.7..... I don't remember a 94 mm option..... play with this: https://vwspeedshop.com/Engine%20Calculator.htm Just plug in the BORE 93, 90. I believe were stock for 1.8, 2.0 and 1.7. and plug in STROKE 66 or 71. stock for 1.7, 1.8 and 2.0 the liter #s are rounded up. 1.7 = 1680-ish, 1756cc = 1.8 and 1850-ish = 2.0 71 mm crank and 96 pistons gets you 2056cc then hit the displacement button. You don't have to fill in the other stuff until you want to know the CR, etc.... there are others... google VW engine displacement calculator I'm familiar (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Thanks! 66mm stroke x 90mm bore is Stock 1.7L (1679cc) 66mm stroke x 93mm bore is Stock 1.8L (1793cc) 71mm stroke x 94mm bore is Stock 2.0L (1971cc) 66mm stroke x 96mm bore is the common 1911cc build 71mm stroke x 96mm bore is the common 2056cc build Jim (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) You can use stock D-Jet or L-jet injection with a 1911. BUT you have to keep the stock cam. To wake up a 1911 you need a better cam and that means either modern EFI or carbs. Your 34s may be enough with jetting changes, but you would be better off with dual 40s (Weber or Dellortos). Years ago, Jake put together a build list for a $3000 1911/2056. About 1/2 of his cost was in the heads. These days, with used heads being an issue, I think you would have a hard time getting heads prepped for only $1500. Zach Is that the 1911 build he put on the dyno? Makes for a great daily with good torque. Maybe christmas (IMG:style_emoticons/default/santa_smiley.gif) |
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