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> Instruction needed for removal of lmpeller, i have to pull the impeller to replace fan shroud- how??
DRPHIL914
post Feb 19 2018, 11:37 AM
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do i have to source a puller of some kind?

if so is it a specific kind?

thanks


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TheCabinetmaker
post Feb 19 2018, 12:20 PM
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Did you try smacking it (in the middle) with a hammer?
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DRPHIL914
post Feb 19 2018, 12:42 PM
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a ha! got it! no I was not brave enough to whack it with a hammer but yes I just tapped around the edges with a rubber hammer moving it a little bit at a time and finally got it off thanks for the suggestion now the question is whether or not I should attempt going after The crank seal on the front which I think might be leaking let me know you what you think and if you have any suggestions
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Larmo63
post Feb 19 2018, 12:51 PM
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They can be fussy, but with a little persuasion, they usually will walk off slowly.

Glad you got it off. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)
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DRPHIL914
post Feb 19 2018, 01:09 PM
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yes exactly- now, what abouy this?

same thing here or a puller to get it off ?


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DRPHIL914
post Feb 19 2018, 01:17 PM
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rats! i thought i had a front seal but i have the wrong part! , too big


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DRPHIL914
post Feb 19 2018, 01:45 PM
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is the seal behind this the front crankshaft seal?


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iankarr
post Feb 19 2018, 02:03 PM
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That black piece behind the hub is the front of the crankshaft seal. The trick to removing the hub is to use 3 pieces of bar stock steel or very thick washers under the fan bolt holes. Make sure the stock and/or washers are wide enough to span the bolt hole and overlap the front of the case, as you'll be leveraging the hub against the metal and you don't want to damage the case.

Screw the bolts back in to the hub and tighten in a circular pattern so the pressure is even. Eventually the hub will pop off...and by pop, I mean it. It will scare the $hit out of you when it does and you'll think you've broken something. Oh...and put a white towel around the hub and on the floor to catch the woodruff key which may go flying. Very tough to see on anything but white. Having a "spotter" keep an eye on the woodruff key is helpful too.

Be safe and good luck!
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Dave_Darling
post Feb 19 2018, 03:19 PM
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For the fan itself, just grab the edges and rock it back and forth. It'll come off at some point.

For the fan hub, put something behind it (large washers, flat bar, whatever) to distribute the load, then put the fan retaining bolts in there. Run them down until they're holding the load-distributing part onto the front of the case, then give each one a half-turn or so in order.

--DD
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IronHillRestorations
post Feb 19 2018, 05:44 PM
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Soak it with what I call "secret sauce" overnight and then do what cuddyk says.

Secret sauce is a 1 to 1 mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid, but only mix what you need, as the acetone evaporates and it doesn't keep. You'll find this is the best penetrating solvent you can use for stubborn fasteners, but it will ruin painted surfaces and damage plastic.
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iankarr
post Feb 19 2018, 06:35 PM
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dave described the process far more eloquently than me. As usual.
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DRPHIL914
post Feb 19 2018, 07:04 PM
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ok thanks all for the help- that popped off with using a puller, no issues but yes very sudden-
now how to get this seal out! its really stuck and i thinknim going to ruin it to get it out-


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DRPHIL914
post Feb 19 2018, 07:06 PM
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pulled off and cleaned up the motor mounts etc , some new hardware and new oil cooler seals too-


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iankarr
post Feb 19 2018, 07:19 PM
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I put a few small screws in the front and used them to pull the seal out. Be super careful with any method. You definitely don't want to scratch the inside of the bore. Also recommend you pull the woodruff key and put it in a ziplock bag in a safe place (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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DRPHIL914
post Feb 19 2018, 08:18 PM
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there was so much gooey oily junk along thst whole area , most o which was under coating crap syrayed everywhere, all ouver the fan shroud and even up to the oil cooler.

i just dont get how they could get away with being so sloppy and not cover the motor and transmission and fan etc- i dealt with cleaning up all the suspension parts and brake lines too- evennin front and rear trunks i had to clean out all that as well-
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ClayPerrine
post Feb 19 2018, 08:51 PM
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QUOTE(Philip W. @ Feb 19 2018, 07:04 PM) *

ok thanks all for the help- that popped off with using a puller, no issues but yes very sudden-
now how to get this seal out! its really stuck and i thinknim going to ruin it to get it out-


To get the seal out, just take a big flat blade screwdriver and put it across the seal with the end under the inside of the seal. Then push the handle away from you, prying it out. Should come out fairly easy.

When you put it back in, put a light smear of wheel bearing grease on the lip to keep from damaging the lip at initial start up. After that, the oil on the inside will keep the lip lubed.

Tap the seal in gently in a circle, pushing it in a little at a time. Once the hammer starts to make a "tink tink tink" noise of the hammer hitting metal, the seal is far enough in. Go slow and light with the hammer and keep moving around the circle.
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Jonathan Livesay
post Feb 19 2018, 09:03 PM
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QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Feb 19 2018, 06:51 PM) *

QUOTE(Philip W. @ Feb 19 2018, 07:04 PM) *

ok thanks all for the help- that popped off with using a puller, no issues but yes very sudden-
now how to get this seal out! its really stuck and i thinknim going to ruin it to get it out-


To get the seal out, just take a big flat blade screwdriver and put it across the seal with the end under the inside of the seal. Then push the handle away from you, prying it out. Should come out fairly easy.

When you put it back in, put a light smear of wheel bearing grease on the lip to keep from damaging the lip at initial start up. After that, the oil on the inside will keep the lip lubed.

Tap the seal in gently in a circle, pushing it in a little at a time. Once the hammer starts to make a "tink tink tink" noise of the hammer hitting metal, the seal is far enough in. Go slow and light with the hammer and keep moving around the circle.

That seal is like $8 why take it out if you are not replacing it, in fact why remove the fan hub if you aren't replacing the seal? Long story short put in a new seal, no?
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DRPHIL914
post Feb 19 2018, 09:44 PM
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new seal is in- i winded up using a needle nose vice grip the thin screw drivers flexed too much and the bigger ones too wide - it was really stuck in there-
any way i should be able to get the new shroud put on tomorrow nite and the rest of the tin will go on very quickly, today i got a lot done with degreasing the transmission, cleaning off the h.e.'s top end of the motor and cleaned off all that tar gunk off the front - a feeling if accomplishment for sure with it getting closer to getting car back from paint and body-
Now i have to decide if i want to replace a couple of the push rod tube seals now or not- did thst a few years ago and i didnt do a very good job- brand new vitron seals ans several were still leaking- i suppose that will be the job for next weekend-


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DRPHIL914
post Feb 19 2018, 09:46 PM
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just for comparrison here is before i cleaned it up- all that black stuff is rust proofing crap from 44 years ago


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Dave_Darling
post Feb 19 2018, 09:53 PM
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You might want to goop some epoxy over the "freeze plugs" that cover the drilled oil passages. That's if you don't want to try removing the plugs and tapping the holes. The epoxy can add a bit more resistance to them popping out, which will just ruin your whole morning. (Don't ask how I know that.)

--DD
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