do i have to source a puller of some kind?

if so is it a specific kind?

thanks

Did you try smacking it (in the middle) with a hammer?

a ha! got it! no I was not brave enough to whack it with a hammer but yes I just tapped around the edges with a rubber hammer moving it a little bit at a time and finally got it off thanks for the suggestion now the question is whether or not I should attempt going after The crank seal on the front which I think might be leaking let me know you what you think and if you have any suggestions

They can be fussy, but with a little persuasion, they usually will walk off slowly.

Glad you got it off.

yes exactly- now, what abouy this?

same thing here or a puller to get it off ?

rats! i thought i had a front seal but i have the wrong part! , too big

is the seal behind this the front crankshaft seal?

That black piece behind the hub is the front of the crankshaft seal. The trick to removing the hub is to use 3 pieces of bar stock steel or very thick washers under the fan bolt holes. Make sure the stock and/or washers are wide enough to span the bolt hole and overlap the front of the case, as you'll be leveraging the hub against the metal and you don't want to damage the case.

Screw the bolts back in to the hub and tighten in a circular pattern so the pressure is even. Eventually the hub will pop off...and by pop, I mean it. It will scare the $hit out of you when it does and you'll think you've broken something. Oh...and put a white towel around the hub and on the floor to catch the woodruff key which may go flying. Very tough to see on anything but white. Having a "spotter" keep an eye on the woodruff key is helpful too.

Be safe and good luck!

For the fan itself, just grab the edges and rock it back and forth. It'll come off at some point.

For the fan hub, put something behind it (large washers, flat bar, whatever) to distribute the load, then put the fan retaining bolts in there. Run them down until they're holding the load-distributing part onto the front of the case, then give each one a half-turn or so in order.

--DD

Soak it with what I call "secret sauce" overnight and then do what cuddyk says.

Secret sauce is a 1 to 1 mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid, but only mix what you need, as the acetone evaporates and it doesn't keep. You'll find this is the best penetrating solvent you can use for stubborn fasteners, but it will ruin painted surfaces and damage plastic.

dave described the process far more eloquently than me. As usual.

ok thanks all for the help- that popped off with using a puller, no issues but yes very sudden-
now how to get this seal out! its really stuck and i thinknim going to ruin it to get it out-

pulled off and cleaned up the motor mounts etc , some new hardware and new oil cooler seals too-

I put a few small screws in the front and used them to pull the seal out. Be super careful with any method. You definitely don't want to scratch the inside of the bore. Also recommend you pull the woodruff key and put it in a ziplock bag in a safe place

there was so much gooey oily junk along thst whole area , most o which was under coating crap syrayed everywhere, all ouver the fan shroud and even up to the oil cooler.

i just dont get how they could get away with being so sloppy and not cover the motor and transmission and fan etc- i dealt with cleaning up all the suspension parts and brake lines too- evennin front and rear trunks i had to clean out all that as well-

To get the seal out, just take a big flat blade screwdriver and put it across the seal with the end under the inside of the seal. Then push the handle away from you, prying it out. Should come out fairly easy.

When you put it back in, put a light smear of wheel bearing grease on the lip to keep from damaging the lip at initial start up. After that, the oil on the inside will keep the lip lubed.

Tap the seal in gently in a circle, pushing it in a little at a time. Once the hammer starts to make a "tink tink tink" noise of the hammer hitting metal, the seal is far enough in. Go slow and light with the hammer and keep moving around the circle.

That seal is like $8 why take it out if you are not replacing it, in fact why remove the fan hub if you aren't replacing the seal? Long story short put in a new seal, no?

new seal is in- i winded up using a needle nose vice grip the thin screw drivers flexed too much and the bigger ones too wide - it was really stuck in there-
any way i should be able to get the new shroud put on tomorrow nite and the rest of the tin will go on very quickly, today i got a lot done with degreasing the transmission, cleaning off the h.e.'s top end of the motor and cleaned off all that tar gunk off the front - a feeling if accomplishment for sure with it getting closer to getting car back from paint and body-
Now i have to decide if i want to replace a couple of the push rod tube seals now or not- did thst a few years ago and i didnt do a very good job- brand new vitron seals ans several were still leaking- i suppose that will be the job for next weekend-

just for comparrison here is before i cleaned it up- all that black stuff is rust proofing crap from 44 years ago

You might want to goop some epoxy over the "freeze plugs" that cover the drilled oil passages. That's if you don't want to try removing the plugs and tapping the holes. The epoxy can add a bit more resistance to them popping out, which will just ruin your whole morning. (Don't ask how I know that.)

--DD

Dave , what would cause them to pop out? pressure, - what are current plugs made of? what kind of epoxy, JB Weld?

Be sure to carefully examine the PRT bores. If the bores have gouges or scratches that you can snag with a finger nail, it will probably leak. If there are remarkable scratches, I stuff the lifter bore with lint free cloth and dress the sealing area with a red scotch brite in a circular manner, and vacuum then blow it out to clean it.

I don't like any O ring that's got flashing, I've seen so called Viton seals that were junk. I never install an O ring dry. There's a very thin sealant that Jake uses on leak prone PRT seals. Maybe Dow 205?? It does lubricate the seal on install, and helps seal. Whatever you do don't gunk them up with RTV.

I don't know if you intend to do the oil gallery plug mod, but if not you might want to clean and epoxy the oil plugs. - DD posted as I was making this post.

Thick cold oil can cause an oil plug to pop out. The best thing to do is pull them, tap them and put in a plug, but some epoxy will go a long way to prevent a blow out. Clean it up really good and go over it with an abrasive pad, and put some heavy duty (high temp) thick epoxy. JBW is a good choice, but it's a little thin and hard to keep in place, unless you can turn the engine nose up.

had not even crossed my mind, doing those plugs- probably i will just do the epoxy,
Thanks foe the tip on the push rod tube seals

sorry for confusion by "ruin it" I meant the shaft etc, not the seal - the seal is toast and yes plan was to replace since I am this far at it, pretty sure this is the original seal the motor was not rebuilt at any time , pretty sure there was a slow leak there, and its become a "while you are there" scenario - cleaning it up, preventing leaks, etc. - I was try ing not to scratch the inside bore etc wth screw driver- got that done butnow I have to order a sealing ring- the o-ring that goes on the back of the part the fan bolts to- not something I can get local. - and that seal was cheap -$10,

Phil