Push rod tube seal leaks, sealant or not?? going to do mine second time and dont want leaks! Options

[TheCabinetmaker]

Wether you use lube or sealant, when you reinstall; As the oring just starts to enter the case holes, rotate the tube as you gently push it in. That will keep it from getting pinched. Then make sure they are seated completely, and don't forget the wire tube retainers.

[98101]

I have some Viton X shaped orings that I've been trying out. Want a set? PM me your address.

Still have these? Or if not, what's a reliable source of the Viton seals? I'm not sure these are the ones I'm finding on Pelican.

[cary]

Part numbers usually end in V.

[IronHillRestorations]

Works fine. Lasts a long time. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Rheet - Rheet - Rheet - Rheet (Psyco music) As long as it worked for you.

To me that looks like "let's see how small a blob of silicone it takes to ruin an engine"

The reason there's an O ring there is because the engine expands and contracts, and the O ring seal will allow some movement due to thermal expansion

[DRPHIL914]

Thanks Mark for sending these down, I will be installing them next week . Motor wont be run so no testing effectiveness until installation of the motor once the car comes back from paint, which I am told the car goes into the booth end of next week!!

[914Toy]

I tried all of the suggestions above with varying poor results. Finally an old pro suggested try a new set of push rod tubes new tubes along with the new brown "O" rings. No more oil leaks!

[98101]

I tried all of the suggestions above with varying poor results. Finally an old pro suggested try a new set of push rod tubes new tubes along with the new brown "O" rings. No more oil leaks!

We'll be changing the transmission (and adding a Chris Foley linkage) and clutch soon. I'm thinking it could be easier just to take the whole engine out and do this.

Looks like the pushrod tubes cost about $12 each. Unclear if I shouldn't just order these beforehand. Mechanic doesn't want my car using up one of his bays while waiting for parts.

[98101]

I tried all of the suggestions above with varying poor results. Finally an old pro suggested try a new set of push rod tubes new tubes along with the new brown "O" rings. No more oil leaks!

We'll be changing the transmission (and adding a Chris Foley linkage) and clutch soon. I'm thinking it could be easier just to take the whole engine out and do this.

Looks like the pushrod tubes cost about $12 each. Unclear if I shouldn't just order these beforehand. Mechanic doesn't want my car using up one of his bays while waiting for parts.

Update: Now I've heard 914Rubber has the pushrod tubes for $8 each. If you were me, would you replace these while doing the seals?

[iankarr]

at 8 bucks a tube? absolutely. theyre often banged up and sometimes the ends are out of round. If youre trying to stop leaks, I'd get new tubes and viton seals and be done with it.

The sealant/no sealant debate rages on. I'm on the 'no' team. But if you do decide to use sealant, make sure you use something that remains pliable like yamabond.

[JFG]

First assembly i used selant. 3 leaks across 2 heads and i removed all gunk, replaced with higher quality seals. This time i used a smear of red rubber grease and no more leaks. Just be careful not to get the grease inside the head. If you do, wipe it away.

[914forme]

Never had a push rod tube leak, I hate leaks.

Always used Loctite 565.

Also make sure your crank case is vented properly, otherwise oil exits every place it can.

[98101]

Also make sure your crank case is vented properly, otherwise oil exits every place it can.

I tried to confirm this by feeling the air from the dipstick tube, per this thread:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=327308

There was enough volume of air to feel it blowing, but when I covered the hole with my finger it didn't feel like a lot of pressure. So I *think* the crankcase ventilation is working. Is there a better way to check Type 4 crankcase pressure?